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dudeogo

Member
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  • Country

    United States

About dudeogo

  • Rank
    Actually a Potato
  • Birthday 07/22/2000

MORE INFO

  • Name
    Hayden Windmiller
  • Location
    Springfield, Mo
  • Occupation
    Online Sales Consultant
  • Interests
    Saxophone, Guitar, Cars, Motorcycles, Car Audio (obviously)
  • Audio System Setup
    working on it.

Recent Profile Visitors

363 profile views
  1. I ended up grabing a crown XLS1500 for $100 a couple days ago! was pumped!
  2. ended up making another new set of doors from a wood frame with pieces of the oem panel. my mids themselves are extraordinarily heavy when all in the panel. any tips for ensuring the panels stay put and my door hinges don't die. Screws obviously, but looking for more creative solutions than I have used in the past.
  3. Bet my kicker comp 10s are louder why you waste your money dawg my cuz blew out his back windshield with two dem mofos
  4. I'm not concerned with money, and I'm well aware I have over $650 just in motor mounts lmao. Wanna talk money pits? my Supra is a money pit.
  5. You are totally fine to keep using that amp just upgrade if you think you need more power. See if there is an audio club local to you (look on Facebook) and see If anyone had an O-Scope or DD1 that will help you. If not you can tune it by ear. Play a 40hz tone with the head unit on the loudest volume you listen to music at, turn up the gain on the sub amp till you hear the sound distort and back it down a bit. And then never go above that head unit volume
  6. To add another sub you would have to buy the 1 ohm amp. 1 DVC 1 ohm sub Can wire to 2 or to 0.5 ohms. 2 D1s Can wire To 0.25, 1, and 4 about the volt meter. Always set the gain where it is clean. No need to slowly work it upwards, but the volt meter is to make sure you do not starve the amp for electrical and subsequently blow it. Have heard wonderful things about taramps online, my team leader had one and hated it, but I’m sure it’s an isolated instance based on all the praise online. Was also an older model.
  7. And yeah i see your point there. Just didn’t want to get all the way finished with my doors only to decide that I wanted to change my setup and have to build new ones. But such is the life of the audiophile right? lol btw. I literally only have that hifonics on there to have music driving to work. There wasn’t even a thought in my mind to use it long term. Was about to get my 1500.2 in and then clutch decided to start slipping like crazy. Which is s $700 fix just for a slightly better than stock.
  8. I don’t have to, the whole point of making the post was to get suggestions. If the general consensus is I’ll sound better 2 way rather than 3 way then I’ll stick with it. Saves me money anyway.
  9. I mean I’m putting a deaf bonce AAKOGO-1500.2 on the 8s and a 180.4 on the tweeters. should be enough power. Was just thinking about the 3 way route is all.
  10. It’s what I’m hearing. According to the manufacturer they play up to 10khz. Power is more than likely the issue. Still waiting on my real mids and highs amps. The clutch on the car went out so taking care of that rn. so just have 4 8s and 4 tweets on a hifonics 1000.4 right now. (just what I had laying around.) and I just noticed that sound quality suffered when the driver was required to play vocals and heavy midbass at the same time. I am really wanting to go 3 way though, even if it means finding room for 4 unlawful 6.5s per door as well.
  11. nothing, just wanting to go 3 way. I feel as though there is too much stress on the 8's handling midbass and midrange at the same time would like to spread that out especially since the DSI-2 has enough outputs to support 3 way. Wanting to make the 8s midbass only and throw the midrange at the 4s
  12. Wanting to make my doors 3 way by adding 4 4" mids to each panel. (My doors are rather small or I would add larger drivers) I know there are a lot of offerings on parts express, but since this is an SPL build I need something that will keep up with my other mids. I wanted to grab the McLaren 4"s, but sadly they only come in 8 ohm. I need a 4 ohm driver so the only real option I see available to me are these DS18s https://ds18.com/collections/pro-audio-mids/products/pro-x4-4bm-pro-series-midrange-bullet-loudspeaker are there better options I've missed? these (and their brand) definitely don't scream high quality lmao
  13. I would look closest at the FU and the Machete. If you can buy a step or two higher in the alphard brand do it! (Sports or super sports) big 3 at your power level is not necessary, you’re not (probably) going to crash and burn by not doing it. But you REALLY should especially to future proof it’s really easy. They will make you a kit at gpcaraudio.com with all the ring terminals pre crimped do all you have to do is bolt it on. I would do the 2/0 OFC just so you never have to worrry about it if you upgrade. My car is almost 100% 2/0 ofc and i would have done that regardless if I was running 300 watts or 30,000 Best batteries in the business are northstar. Would be worth your while to invest in one if you go any bigger.
  14. Other basket arrived. Now for PSI to hurry up. lol.
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