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  1. I have a small custom fiberglass sealed box approx .5 cu ft for a 10" sub. Two questions: 1. How much clearance does there need to be between the bottom of the sub (the magnet) and the box wall? 2. Has anyone ever tried using a piece of dynomat/retromat/hushpad or similar between the bottom of the sub and the box wall. I've never heard it mentioned or suggested for a sub, only door speakers. Is there a reason?
  2. Thanks for the input guys. I stuck with separate lugs and fuses for the 4 and 8.
  3. Hi guys. I have a 2008 Dodge Ram Quad Cab. Kenwood Excelon Head. AudioControl Three.2 (For Sub Only, it actually works very well) & Matrix Plus. Alpine PDR M65 AMP for 1 10" sub Old Boston Pro 10. Front doors are Boston SPZ60's. Extra set of Boston Neo Tweeters in the dash, tuned down -6db and firing upside down. Rear doors is an old set of Boston PRO 6 Components. And I mean Old, like 15 years or so. Mids and Tweeters run by a 4 channel Rockford Punch 801x, which is rated for 100w x4 at 4 ohm, or 200w x4 at 2 ohm. The SPZ's in the front, the manual says they are 3 ohm. The mids in the rear doors of the truck sit high, up near the top of the doors, (probably that is at least part of the problem) the tweeters are down lower. The sound coming from the rear was kind of grating on my ears, especially with vocals. I thought maybe it was the tweeters. The old crossovers for them don't have any adjustable attenuation. But it's not the tweets, it's the mids that are putting out kind of a harsh grating sound, maybe they are just worn out. The amp gain is all the way down and I have even dialed back the output on the matrix plus but they still sound harsh. I am wondering if you guys would have any suggestions for a good component set of 6 1/2s that are known for having mids that are very warm, smooth and not harsh. Same with the tweeters. I have about 2 1/2" of mounting depth to work with, and the current mids, with trim ring, come out about 3/4" from the door with no grilles on and I am able to cover them with the door panel. I am an sq guy but I do like to go loud fairly often. Most of the time I dial back the gain on the rears so my soundstage is in front, but sometimes I like to just crank it up with the rears loud as well and have the sound kind of fill up the entire cabin of the truck. Not looking to spend $1,000 or anything. $200-$300 max. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
  4. JSMCO

    2 subs or 1?

    Thanks for the reply Carloss. I actually ended up just buying an Alpine PDR M65 Amp which the certificate said puts out 796 watts and can run a 2 OHM sub. The single Boston now really sounds great and it was much easier and cheaper to just swap out the amp than to have to pay for a 2nd enclosure. So I got to keep my storage space under the passenger rear seat, I have an extra Boston if mine ever craps out, I have a good old school Rockford Punch 500S amp in my garage cabinet along with too many other old goodies, and my Truck sounds great!
  5. I have an extra Earthquake Sound Platinum 0/1 AWG Power Ring Terminal. It's the type with the screw in it, not the crimp type. As long as they'll both fit in the sleeve, could I attach both a 4 AWG and an 8 AWG power cable to this same lug? Then each cable would go to it's own fuse holder, one 60 and one 80. Thanks!
  6. JSMCO

    Old Boston Pro 10.5lf sub

    Guys, I have 1 of these old Boston Pro 10.5lfs. The 2 ohm. It's in a small-about 0.4 cu ft sealed custom fiberglass enclosure for my dodge ram under the rear driver's side seat. It's been running off of one side of a Rockford Punch 500s so getting 250W, according to the amp specs. I don't have the certificate to know for sure what the actual wattage is. The manual on these just says: Recommended Amplifier Power: 50-1100 watts. That's a pretty wide spread but it seems it should be able to handle a lot more than the 250W. It doesn't list max power. The site speakerboxlite site says the max power is 2200 watts. So I don't really know what the best RMS power would be to run this most efficiently. Anyone here have any suggestions or real-life experience? I bought a new Alpine PDR-M65 Amp, rated at 650 RMS into 2 ohms, the certificate says actual output is 796 watts into 2 ohms. It seems that would do the trick pretty well, but before I take the plunge and switch out my amp, I thought I'd check here and see if anyone had some input. Much Thanks.
  7. JSMCO

    2 subs or 1?

    Hi Guys, I have a 2008 Dodge RAM 1500. Kenwood Excelon 793, AudioControl three.2, Old school Boston SPZ60 front doors, Boston Pro 6.0 rear doors, Boston 10.5 Pro 2 ohm sub. (Single Voice Coil) Rockford Punch 801x running the mids, Rockford Punch 500S running the sub. I just discovered after about 10 years that the sub is 2ohm, thus the amp is not bridged, just running the sub off one channel, but it hits hard and clean, always has. The sub is in a small sealed fiberglass enclosure under the rear driver's side seat. It's odd shaped to conform to the vehicle, but I'd guess by measuring it's about .35 cubic ft volume. Tiny but the Boston sub never seemed to mind. The amp says it's 250w RMS per channel at 2 ohms, 500w bridged at 4 ohms. The Boston Sub says it's rated for 50-1100w. So I'd like to get use from both channels on my amp, one is just going to waste. I am not sure what would be the best way to go and I'd really like some suggestions, which could include "just leave it as is" which is fine with me if you guys feel I'd see little improvement for extra time & money. Please forgive my noob questions: 1. I actually have another identical Boston sub. I like the one I have so much, I bought this one as a spare in case the old one ever blew. So option 1 would be have another good enclosure built, run the 2nd sub off the amp's other channel at 250w, and put it under the rear passenger seat. 2. I could buy a dual voice coil 2 ohm sub and wire it to present 4 ohms to the amp or a 4 ohm svc sub so I could bridge the amp and just stick with one sub that would get 500w instead of 250. I'm looking at: Rockford P3D2-10 JL Audio 10W3v3-4 Pioneer TS-D10D2 (My box top mounting depth is right at 6 1/4". The Rockford says mounting depth 6 3/16" so no room to spare. The other two would have a bit more clearance. Should there be any gap between the bottom of the sub and the bottom of the enclosure? I like my bass deep & tight, not boomy. I like the sound of bass like ZZ Top, Steve Winwood, etc. 3. Is there any type of device that would cause the current SVC 2 Ohm sub to present 4 ohms to the amp bridged? Something that goes inline between the amp and the sub or otherwise? I'd have no problem just running my one Pro 10 at 500w if that is possible. Thanks in advance very much for any input, and again, please forgive if my questions are sub-101 level for you guys.