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ckeeler11

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About ckeeler11

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  • Birthday 02/22/1975

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    AZ
  1. ckeeler11

    Help choosing 6.5

    SB Acoustics should fit the bill. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/sb-acoustics-woofers-6-7/sb-acoustics-sb17nrxc35-4-6.5-woofer/
  2. ckeeler11

    is dsp necessary

    Using a DSP will give you a lot more options for tuning each channel, so yes would make a difference. Now you are running Pro audio gear so is it worth it is another story.
  3. ckeeler11

    shallow sub

    Sundown is only $240.
  4. ckeeler11

    Help with 3-way setup in a roadster

    The issue you will have with putting midbass in the rear is that it is directional so it will sound like it is behind which is not good for staging and imaging. If you are set on going 3 way all the drivers will have to be mounted in the front door/dash/ pillar.
  5. ckeeler11

    Which Brand??

    the list of promising subs could be a mile long and you can drive yourself crazy with all the brands. You just need to decide what you want from the sub and pick one that will excel at what you want.
  6. ckeeler11

    Undecided

    I would go with a Fi Q myself.
  7. ckeeler11

    Stupid question....

    Depends on what you have now and how the TNT 15 is setup.
  8. DO not look at max power that is a **** number. Gotta go by RMS. Those Hertz will be good on 150 per side. I would do a Twisted Sounds TS95.4 bridged. http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/twisted-sounds-ts95-4-600w-4-channel-amplifier.html
  9. ckeeler11

    Aero port question

    If it is a short radius 90 then I would not worry to much as it will add an 1" or maybe 2" not a big deal. Long radius 90 (which i doubt you would use here) could add several inches.
  10. How you wire the speakers determines the load on the amp. the amp cannot dictate the ohm load. You will be wiring the subs together then to the amp. your choice: https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=12#results
  11. If the headunit is doing the processing then the only way to get around it is to get a new headunit or a something like the miniDSP with summing capabilities.
  12. ckeeler11

    Strictly speaking,

    It will be night and day difference. The JL sub is a meh middle of the road entry level sub, the SA Z series is a whole other level. That sub needs to be in a ported enclosure. You will need to do electrical upgrades going that big so make sure you plan for it.
  13. ckeeler11

    Strictly speaking,

    Hard to say you dont have much info to work off of. What model JL subs do you have? how much power? What new subs are you looking at? how much power for them? You should see a big increase in output just going to ported. Going to 15's will also have drastically more cone area so will also make it louder. More power would also get louder. The quality of sound will all depend on the subs you choose and the how well the box is designed. Lower and boomier are also going to determined by the subs and enclosure.
  14. ckeeler11

    2006 Mercury Montego Build And Suggestions

    You are kind of all over with your driver selection. You have a mix of PRO drivers which are SPL oriented, a subwoofer with the Dayton and 2 nice midbass drivers in the Silver Flutes and SB acoustics. I would rule out that Dayton since its a subwoofer. So now you have to decide are you wanting a SPL leaning build or a Sound Quality leaning build. If SPL is the goal then the Sundown or Crescendos would be what I would select. IF SQ the the SB Acoustics would be my choice of those other 2 drivers. If you go with the SPL drivers then you will need to look at Pro tweeters as well.
  15. ckeeler11

    What could possibly be the problem?

    Does it do it on all sources? Have you faded forward and backwards to isolate where it is coming from?
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