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dennismv

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About dennismv

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/09/1979

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  • Location
    Michigan
  1. Dimensions I can fit are as such: Length: 32-40 inches. To explain: 32 is "comfortable length", and 40" is maximum my vehicle can reasonably fit. Width and height: 14-15" This is for a dual sub box. If it's a single speaker I could probably do a "cube" of slightly larger dimensions, maybe 20-21" I understand now that my choice is closer to two 12" or single 18". Or maybe I could do something in the middle. I do like the idea of a double speaker, but also like the idea of a single large speaker (although I am concerned about lesser cone area). IN other words, I am still undecided, so hopefully the dimensions above will help narrow it down!
  2. I am considering between two to four Dayton Audio UM10-22 10" two Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" most likely in a sealed box, because I want more responsive more accurate bass. My particular crossover is Honda CR-V. I am not too worried about space, but I probably don't want to put four of the 18" drivers in there, at least not right now, but I can put two. As far as 10" I could probably handle up to three or up to four if I get a little crazy. My question hence is ... considering vehicle size, and that I do want to have other things in the car sometimes, is there a good sweet spot for number of subs and size of drivers that will work? I realize this may be subjective, but I wanted to do a sanity check on what works well and maybe get some direction on where I need to go rather than pick something blindly. For example, maybe two or three 12" drivers will be just fine. I'm looking for nice accurate tight bass, that can hit lower notes, maybe go to sub-20Hz and just fill my car with bass.
  3. dennismv

    Dayton RSS265HO-4 vs UM10-22

    According to Dayton tech support, Reference is more musical, Ultimax focuses on low frequency applications, like home theaters, but both are good for home or audio.
  4. dennismv

    Dayton RSS265HO-4 vs UM10-22

    What is the difference between the two Dayton subs below? Dayton Reference Series RSS265HO-4 Dayton Ultimax Series UM10-22 I am interested in building a system aimed for quality and thinking of having them be put into a sealed enclosure with 2 or 3 subs. I note that one is high output and another one costs a bit more and looks bigger. How do I decide which one is best for my application?
  5. also wanted to mention, I don't want things "loud", but more so .. quality and bass that's enough to feel it in my body. And a bass turn know so I can regulate the sub volume. i.e. In my Expedition I positioned the bass ( 2 JL Audio 10W3v3-4 10" in a sealed box) right behind my driver's seat, and other than the audible sound, it hits me nicely with audio waves as well Also in the Expedition I replaced 4 speakers (front and second row seats). CR-V itself has 8 stock speakers. I'm debating if doing just 2 speakers will be enough.
  6. also wanted to mention, I don't want things "loud", but more so .. quality and bass that's enough to feel it in my body. And a bass turn know so I can regulate the sub volume. i.e. In my Expedition I positioned the bass ( 2 JL Audio 10W3v3-4 10" in a sealed box) right behind my driver's seat, and other than the audible sound, it hits me nicely with the air vibrations as well
  7. 2018 Honda CR-V EX-L
  8. I don't mind going with Dayton or similar non brand components. I umm don't know what to get really as far putting together a package that will work together. I do want most quality for the money and I don't mind spending a bit of money. I guess though if I don't have to spend a lot for quality, then that is great too!! I'm looking for a plain all get me some good bass and quality mids and tweets into my car. Mostly bass, since my car is sadly lacking is that right now And I am glad you are telling me this. Otherwise I'd end up with JLs and spending lotsa moneys
  9. What system would you recommend for $2,000? I am looking for a sub, amps, and door speakers... for 2018 Honda CR-V EX-L
  10. I went to two different installers and got offered these packages for $2000: JL Audio HO110-W6v3 + deserving JL speakers, amps (forgot the details) Rockford Fosgate Punch P300‑12 + pbr300x4 + deserving RF speakers Which set up is more worth the money?
  11. There is a guy who is selling RE Audio 12 double xx with a ks 1200 amp for $1000 Used. Is that a good deal? I am not familiar with that sub, or pricing...
  12. Thanks I think I will go for just upgrading the entire system. I was given two options package with Kicker 12" Q-Class 42CWQ122 for about $2600 (+speakers, etc) package with Alpine 12" Sub with an Alpine 250 for about $1400 (+speakers, etc) The price difference is fairly large. Is going with Kicker worth it? Do I need that much bass on a crossover vehicle? I mean I want to get as much bass as I can for a decent price. The place I got quotes from is known to be a bit on the expensive side. And yes I'd hope that would be done right for $2600 but I think there are better deals available out there.
  13. I am interested in upgrading sound on a 2018 Honda CR-V EX-L I have a questions about whether to upgrade the entire system or the sub only. Upgrading Full System: Given that the stock "180-Watt Audio System with 8 Speakers" (no sub) is factory-new, will upgrading the tweeters and mids be worth the sound quality and expense? (I was quoted $2600 for full-speaker + sub upgrade) Adding Sub Only: Given that the stock system is new, I could add a Sub for $500 (quoted), but leave stock speakers as stock. Adding a sub means having a different amplifier installed, compared to if I upgrade the entire system, so I can't for example upgrade the sub only first, and later decide to upgrade the speakers. Alas, as far as HU, it seems the head unit on the CR-V will have to remain stock, as there are no aftermarket head units that I've come across. Given that info, is it worth upgrading the sub only? Is there an option I didn't consider? My goal is good sound + good healthy bass to rattle my music-loving bod.
  14. dennismv

    Strictly speaking,

    Two JL Audio 10W3v3-4 10" and JX1000/1D. I don't know.... As far as new subs, I can start with Z-12 V.3 D2 - Sundown Audio 12" 1500 Watt RMS Dual 2-Ohm Z3 Series, and go up from there. I can also go ported...
  15. dennismv

    Strictly speaking,

    Current situation: I have two 10" JL Audio subs in a sealed box inside a Ford 1997 Expedition. What can I expect if I decide to upgrade them to: 15" subs (ported or open)? 17" subs (ported or open or 1/4 wave enclosure)? i.e. I expect the bass be ... lower? boomier? louder? But what about the quality of sound?
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