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wew lad

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About wew lad

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    wew lad inc
  • Birthday July 15


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  1. wew lad

    Upgrading to bigger amps

    Any full bridge besides mmats, and maybe the limited run of those soundigital GaN 2 channels
  2. wew lad

    Upgrading to bigger amps

    I'd avoid using any full bridge besides mmatts for midrange duty for at least a few more generations. Ideal for sub stage at this point in their lifetime
  3. Those prebuilt slim truck enclosures with sub are pretty terrible as far as output goes. I'd say they're about a 1/100 when it comes to loudness and you should be at about a 20/100 for what you want The oldschool rockfords are pretty awesome, although I'd argue they're worth more sold as a rare working amplifier than they are being used because at this age they're just asking to pop if the caps havent been replaced. If you don't care just bridge it like said, it'll put out plenty of clean power.
  4. You try out different orientations. Your box should be about the size of a side table or smaller so you can rotate it. Generally speaking sub towards the trunk works the best but I'm not an expert on loading in cars. Regarding the 4 channel, yes you would run the doors active with the tweeters turned down significantly so one driver is one channel. 2 mids, 2 tweets. Then of course the sub channel. The passenger won't really notice unless they've trained their ears well enough. If you put enough time into it (not worth it) you can build two presets and tune each side individually. Basic EQ, filters, and TA will be more than enough You could do it all pretty decently with <$1k. That's including two new amps, a taramps md3000.1 and some clone 4 channel like the ppi900.4, nvx 900.4, etc
  5. +1 for the infinite baffle, only if it's done properly. I'll let Jeff recommend a ~$200 driver seeing that I haven't really touched SQ Drivers for a few years. I've heard great things about the Image Dynamics lines http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/idmax With the proper ported enclosure, driver, power, and orientation in the trunk you can still get loud without sacrificing your whole trunk. Relatively loud, that is. Something with decent SQ and decent output is all you need, and will sound better than 99% of whats out there Whether you need two amps is up to you. You can get something like a 900.5 5 channel and wire everything active or you can get one 4 channel and one mono. Or you could leave the doors stock.. which would be pretty gross lol
  6. You'll find that when someone offers good advice, and takes time out of their day to do it (like Jeff), there's no real need for us to step in aside from helping time-wise. Can you clarify what you mean by "pairing the amp and sub?" I think you're trying to ask if the sub is ok and yeah it is for now, but it really depends on what it sounds like when you're finished and whether you're happy or not. You hint that you don't like it.. Kicker subs can get loud in the right box with the right tuning, but the market right now has very (relatively) good drivers for <$200 shipped to your door so I would recommend getting something other than the kicker, as well as building your own enclosure (or paying a reputable shop to do so). To get to the point where you feel like there's pressure and not just vibration you simply need more output. Tuning a system is more like lining up a bunch of out of place lines than it is throwing a bunch of stuff in a car and powering it.
  7. wew lad

    Auto Start Stop cutting off amp for a second

    "Acshualllyyy" Did you research the wear and tear that has on the car? I'd be willing to bet on a 2006 it's enough to equal out the savings. Newer cars likely have technology designed for it.
  8. wew lad

    I give in. I'll get a head unit. Wanna help?

    The goal is to make it sound like the concert/music is coming from in front of you, not behind you. Rear speakers can complicate that, even though it doesn't seem like you're going full SQ. Regarding some previous comments of yours I read.. you can outsource just the headunit install to the shop if it's an excessively complicated vehicle and radio wiring harness. Considering the fact that you're a woodworker though, you can easily build the box yourself and run some wires if you simply take your time and think about where to run the wires so they're not torn up due to a brute force method of doing it You'll benefit from getting a 9 wire conductor and using it to relocate the speaker wires from behind the headunit to the amps location
  9. wew lad

    New 2din head unit, how much RAM is needed?

    They don't even list frequency response or preout voltages.. I mean come on. The red flags are there if you know what to look for
  10. wew lad

    New 2din head unit, how much RAM is needed?

    Those headunits are notorious for having shitty DAC's and IC's throughout. RAM would be important if you used it almost strictly as an android device but when it comes to your standard headunit RAM is irrelevant due to the circuit being designed for one role. Those android headunits are buggy, output disgustingly distorted signals, and usually stop working in one way or another in the first 6-12 months. I recommend you get a brand name like kenwood, pioneer, sony, etc and if you want all the extra functionality of an android headunit you'll need to pay the premium for a name brand headunit that has it.
  11. That's not what I'm saying. I'm not even saying much, just that you're spewing shit without substantiation and no one cares because of that
  12. There's nothing new about what you're saying. I can name more than 3 companies that do stupid shit too Your "background" doesn't exempt you from criticism
  13. Is there a single factual statement in this, or is it a persuasive draft?
  14. wew lad

    Old School Roll Call

    I suggest you keep that going.