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Boominburban last won the day on October 10 2018

Boominburban had the most liked content!

About Boominburban

  • Rank
    CarAudio.com Elite
  • Birthday 01/31/1967


  • Name
    Dale - The Boominburban
  • Location
    Athens, TN
  • Occupation
    Skilled Tech 30 yrs, Robots/ Industrial equipment installs,upgrades,programming and R&D
  • Interests
    car audio, motorcycles, 4 wheelers, race car
  • Audio System Setup
    Not Loud ....

Recent Profile Visitors

449 profile views
  1. The Wolfram Jeff posted or a Taramps MD3000 ....
  2. Look into FU Audio or Resilient Sounds. Both offer good value per dollar subs, and have a quality product.
  3. Group buy started on FB right now .... Josh Williams I think ....
  4. My Suburban loves the weight reduction. Pulled 600lbs of agm,(575 ah) replaced with 185lbs of lithium(105ah). Wired at one ohm each amp, I couldn't even turn mine past 3/4 on the agm's, and I was dipping to 11.8v. I can now pull 30k clamped power and only drop 1v. Which is pretty much full tilt, wired at .5 ohm per amp. Went from 8mpg, to almost 12mpg now. WOO-HOO !!
  5. Josh Williams, here in TN is organizing a group buy on the Yinlong cells right now. He is on FB, DIY Car Audio Lithium LTO LiFePO4 group. Send me(Dale Efaw) a FR( on FB), and I will add you to that group.
  6. They are still around, doing okay. They still don't sell online.Probably won't anytime soon. Brick and mortar only. Still plenty of DD builds out there. World Finals registration would say the industry is doing great. Largest field in a decade.220 vehicles for just MECA alone. I've got 9 competitors in each of my classes this year.
  7. Thank you ! I have a good shot at a title, as I'm second loudest in the country in both of my classes.( as long as I can keep my windshield in it) OH, and MECA is doing World Championship rings this year!! That is awesome!! Once you get them up around 15.2v, I think they will really shine. I know mine love 14.8 - 15.6v area. And let us know if these get stronger after a few cycles. Mine did. Good luck on the cold weather performance. LTO is the best chemistry for that as well. I know the particular cells I am using are good down to -30deg Celsius, and still have a 15c rating there.
  8. Just keep in mind, It will take a 1-1/2" x 1/2" buss rail to flow 525 amps with no drop. 1-1/2" x 1/4" is only good for half that. Unless you are using 3" wide bars, 1/4" just isn't going to cut it for your main buss bars.
  9. Not much .... lol You're thinking small. You need chargers/monitors, load testers, meters ect.. Drill press, band saws,drills and taps(and jigs, made for every configuration of battery you build, for drilling the holes) OR a CNC mill to make all the connecting bars/bussing in. Strong work benches that are non conductive (or mats for them that are non conductive).And all the power/hand tools required to do the job efficiently. And 1/4" 6061 is on the small side, I generally use 3/8" and up for connectors, and much larger for bussing. 1-1/2" x 2", 1" x 3", 2" x 2-1/2", ect .... a 72" piece of those is generally $100 and up by itself. And that only makes one set of 36" buss bars. I'm building batteries for systems clamping 20k+, so running 2500+ amps through the buss bars. And don't use stainless hardware, plain old zinc coated hardware is a better conductor. Make sure to use oxgard on all your connections. I won't be doing anything soon. World Finals is in two days. Get on FB, look up the DIY LTO lithium groups. Find Michael McCormick, he has a few cases of the pouch style LTO cells left . And Colin,( from Wolfram Audio) just helped organize a group buy for the same cells hispls is using. The supplier hispls is using has proven to be the best one to go through, as well, for that cell.The only one I would trust with my money The cells hispls are using are much easier to build with than the pouched cells some of us are using. But, the pouched cells have been around for a decade + and are a proven cell. And we have been using them with great results in car audio for about a year now. People are just starting to test with these new cylinder type cells. Just do your research, and choose whats best for your needs.Build it correctly, don't try and cut corners to save a dime, and you will be very happy with your end product.
  10. I've built a few LTO batteries for others. There is not much money in it really. After cells, correct size/type bussing, a case, attachment hardware, the cost of the equipment it actually takes to efficiently build them, then wear and tear on your equipment to build one. And the amount of time it actually takes to do it. And most everyone knows what the cells actually cost now. It's really not worth the liability you may have from an end user's possible mistakes. I'm happy if anything I've said has helped you . You are welcome.
  11. They have to be giving you a "burp" , or pulse rating. As that example would require a 20c+ rated cell. And most are only rated at 7-10c for 30 seconds. And 20c for a 10 second pusle.
  12. Yes, these run on 12-30v DC power. I'll be using a 24v 20a power supply to charge/balance mine when needed while sitting at home. You just missed a big group buy on the LTO cells hispls is using. FB man ..... its helpful at times ...
  13. You leave it hooked up as a monitor all the time. Only balance cells when needed. No, these technically are not a BMS. As they don't control input or output of the bank. Just monitor/balance, and charge cell packs as needed. Your alternator will keep the battery, as a whole, charged.
  14. I did list the three known and tested charger/balancer/monitors that work with/have LTO profiles already. 1- Icharger X6, 2 - ISDT BG-8S( if you are charging at 2.5v per cell + only. which is 15v+ in a 6p configuration), 3 - Chargery makes one with a dedicated LTO profile as well. Those are the three, that we know of, that have been tested and proven to work with LTO cells. And those are the ONLY ones proven to work correctly. These are NOT a BMS. That is what the six blue and one gray wire are for coming out of my battery. One + off each pack of cells( so six for 6p), and one - . those connect to a charger/monitor/balancer unit. I will be using Icharger X6 units. And for those of you that don't know how to size bussing. There is an easy formula for aluminum, and copper. Aluminum will carry 700 amps per cross sectional inch of material. Copper = 1000. SO, a 1" x 1.5" bar, up to 48" would work out like this; 1 x 1.5 =1.5 x 700 =1050 amps - 1.5 x 1000 = 1500 amps if copper A 1" x .250" bar would work out like this; 1 x .25 = .25 x 700 = 175 amps if aluminum - .25 x 1000 = 250 amps if copper This formula is ideal. For NO buss induced voltage drop, or heat build up. Will smaller work? Yes it will. But the smaller you go from here, the bigger the % of buss induced voltage drop gets as you get up to you peak amperage draw. Think about that when you're trying to run a 7k amp off of those 1 x 1 bars, filled full of 1/0 holes, and wonder why you have voltage drop ....
  15. I'm running a 1993 Suburban w/ 5.7L TBI. Seems it could care less if I'm charging at 15.6 ish. I've already swapped to LED headlights, so that isn't even an issue. I'm running Taramps, so I'm limited to 16v for now.