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Jtyson

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About Jtyson

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  • Birthday 09/13/1987

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    Albuquerque, NM

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  1. Amp came in. Got everything installed and hooked up...@THATpurpleKUSH was right. Waste of time. I mean it works, and is better than stock, but only at levels I will rarely listen to it at. I had unrealistic expectations. I don't know if it is the subs being in too small of a box or what. Tempted to try some of the f8ls now, but I'm gonna give this setup some days to see if it grows on me. Just not thrilled overall with the amount of money and time spent compared to the final result.
  2. Added 1/2" spacers on top of the spacers provided by fox and it still doesn't fit. I'm going to remove the carpet tomorrow and try again. Probably just end up going to the steel yard and getting some 2" box steel and making my own spacers. Bought longer bolts - $60 worth for these stupid oddball thread size that regular hardware stores don't carry. Amp won't fit. No way no how. Ordered a Taramps HD 3000 2ohm on amazon. $170 isn't too bad, only downside is that it won't be here until Monday, so I won't be listening to anything this weekend yet again. Wishing I would have listened and not messed with all this. Hoping that once it is all in and working that I change my mind.
  3. Update - fought with it all last weekend. Got the cab ripped apart, laid the butyl and foam and found out I under ordered. Oh well. I did as much as I could. That is what I get for believing the internet on sq footage. I ran my power wires under the truck along the frame in corrugated tube taped up and zip tied to secure it well. Connected the head unit with a PAC AP4-CH41. Plug and play. Drill a small hole in the bezel for the control knob and run a USB for computer tuning access. Not sure how to go about that yet really. I tried to get my box in, and turns out, with the butyl and the foam, it won't fit with the spacers provided by fox. Frankly I'm not sure it would have fit without that stuff, but anyway, I'm trying to find longer bolts m12x1.75 which is a size nobody carries, and some thick square washers to use as spacers. Might have royally screwed myself believing the internet. Cut off 3/8" from my seat hooks as it says to do everywhere online, but with the amount of lift I'm requiring, they may not latch anymore. So I may have to pull them out again and attempt to tig weld on some little tongues that help them grab. STUPID on my part. Should have tested before cutting rather than just believing what I read. Not sure my amp is going to fit. I think I have the thickness clearance on the back wall if I cut the carpet cover, but I'm not sure I have the realty side to side with the power goodies back there. May have to buy a different amp that is a bit smaller to run these. Any suggestions there? I saw taramps suggested before. I thought Skar due to brand matching. Any other ideas? And a final note - I looked for a long time online to find pictures of a crew cab truck with everything removed and couldn't find anything. I really wanted to know how difficult it would be to cut the molded floor out and do a forward facing box. I decided against it before ripping it apart. Wish I hadn't. If you weren't scared to modify your floor pan and fab up some modified seat mounts, you could get a pretty damn big box in one of these with probably enough airspace for 4 of these subs front facing. Would take a lot of work, but to someone might be worth it. Hope to get it up and going this weekend. Hope.
  4. I've got multiple threads running about this "build" trying to get answers so I wanted to update this one as things go, and try and ask questions here instead of starting a bunch of threads if I don't have to. I bought a fox acoustics dual 12" ported box that I'm going to make adapters for 8" subs. I ordered a PAC module to connect to the head unit and maintain factory functions. I've decided to just use my Crescendo 3500 amp to push the Skar ZVX 8s for now. I may switch this up if I'm not totally thrilled since the box is gonna be slightly undersized for these subs. If it doesn't rock me, I'll probably buy a couple f8l subs and possibly a different amp. I ordered a load of butyl mat and closed cell foam to quiet things down hopefully. I have 0 gauge wiring, and I'm trying to see if I need to upgrade the battery or charging system. Second battery? Bigger alternator? Or can I slide with factory stuff as long as I'm not pounding it at 100% constantly? I know I should do the big 3 wire upgrade either way. I'd like to have things in and running this weekend, but don't know when everything will be delivered. I'm itching for some more bass! It has taken longer than I hoped to decide and acquire all this stuff. And so much for keeping it cheap using the stuff I already had lol.
  5. Well I found another thread on here for a mega cab build being done by @txdog27 that mentioned integration with a PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41. Amazon for $279. Man does that make me miss the days of a $60 deck and some RCAs. Oh well, times change. And looks like I'll need a dsp as well for sound control, so I may go the route mentioned in that other thread with an Audiocontrol D-4.800 since that seems to be pretty flexible, even if it is a grip of cash I wasn't expecting to spend. But I'm not 100% sure on that part yet. Trying to keep it cheap with some subs and amp I had in the garage is turning out to be anything but that.
  6. Well, that was half an hour I'll never get back. Zero reference to connecting an amplifier to a factory 8.4 Alpine Uconnect system. But I am confident in my ability to put speakers and an aftermarket deck in a truck that is totally different than mine.
  7. I'll have to watch that later this evening. Judging by the length and title, I'm hoping that covers my questions. Thanks!
  8. 2015 Ram 1500. UConnect 8.4 Alpine system. Need to retain all factory functions. Trying to attach my Crescendo 3500 to my Skars. I've tried searching but either I'm not grasping or the answer isn't clear. I've seen PAC modules mentioned, amps with LOC, resistors, etc. What do I actually need? I found this other thread but his truck is newer. I tried asking on there but no response. He said he connected an audiocontrol D-4.800 amp to his head unit which is the newer Harmon system. That amp is big $$$ and I wasn't banking on doing other speakers for a long while, if at all. But if that is the easiest way and is tuneable then I will buy that amp. I just don't know if I still need a PAC module to connect it? Or just the amp? Or something else? I have emailed audiocontrol for answers as well. Shotgunning this here. I've had my box sitting in my garage for a couple weeks and I'd like to hear it work this year!
  9. I'm trying to cash in on what I hope is your good nature here.... Hopping on your thread here trying to learn something. I'm a dinosaur that hasn't installed a stereo in anything in several years, so all this new tech is blowing my mind. My truck is similar to yours, but not identical. 2015 Ram 1500 crew cab. I also purchased the vented fox box. I'm planning to stuff a couple Skar ZVX8s in there that I have in the garage, power them with a Crescendo BC3500D because I've got that in the garage too. I have the 8.4 uconnect with Nav too, but mine is the Alpine, so I'm not sure what change that really makes. I'm trying to figure out what I need to actually connect my amp to my head unit. I see you purchased the Audio Control amp with the DSP built in. Pricey unit and I wasn't sure about amping the speakers for some time, but I'm wondering if going that route is better than buying a PAC AmpPro and then a separate DSP. Or did you still need an adapter before the Audio Control? I'm on overload here in acronym hell and I'm not sure what I actually need, other than more money so I could afford to pay someone else for this to be their problem and mine to enjoy as a finished product. Did you lose any functions of the factory head unit with your install? Or does everything still work?
  10. Well I took a leap, and ordered one from Fox. Now just need to get all the other parts and hope for the best. I'll report back - good or bad.
  11. Called and spoke with a guy at Fox today. Relatively friendly. He was on the road and told me to call back tomorrow if I wanted exact numbers but he believes the port area is 14in^2 and length 28". So that happens to be just barely short on area as the spec calls for 14.45, but the length is 9" too long. So I did some searching and seems that a shorter port will react better? But a longer port isn't necessarily a terrible thing. Any thoughts on that?
  12. Initially I didn't want this truck. I wanted a mega cab so I could build something behind the rear seats. But it didn't work out that way. So now I'm trying to make the best of it. I'm thinking seriously about just buying one of the fox boxes and modifying it to fit the 8" sub or subs. They claim 1.55ft^3 each side on the dual or 1.8ft^3 on the single. Port area and what not may be perfect, but hell, I don't have to build it, and it is bound to be a load better than the 150 watt alpine factory sub. I mean realistically I'm not looking to compete, just trying jam while I'm on the road 6 hours at a time.
  13. Well - as I expected, not even close. I bought some bean bag filler styrofoam (what a mess) and filled the box this afternoon. Then dumped everything out that didn't static cling to the inside into a box 2'x2'x'2'. And it filled it a whopping 5". So basically 1.7ft^3. Now granted, I didn't pull carpet, nor lift the seats, and I probably could have done a little more work to stuff another inch or two under the seats, but I just don't know about getting the 3ft^3 that I would need without a TON of work. So....just how bad do you think one of those fox boxes would sound? Either a single or a double? I mean if they've already done the leg work to get the airspace maximized for the space, why shouldn't I save myself the headache and buy one? Sure the port may not be perfect for what I've got, but how bad is that really?
  14. I have considered the idea of removing the stupid molded tin extensively. But being that I intend to get rid of the truck in about a year, I don't think it is a good idea to go to all that trouble. I do have the welders and skill to do it, but I think that is a bit more work than I should take on. I didn't pull carpet or lift the seats to make the mock up box, so I guess I'll add a small factor in if my mock up happens to be close to adequate. Frankly, even just building the mock up for this thing today was stupid. From start to finish, I spent almost 4 hours, and I still haven't calculated the air space because I can't find any filler to check it with. I can say, that without a doubt, I'd rather buy a box than build one for such a ridiculous space. But, since I wasted the whole afternoon on this dumb mock up box, I'll see what I can find to work as a filler to check volume. Anyway, the box is small. Just by looking at it, I'm thinking there is no way I get close to 3ft^3. As it is, the box touches the bottom of the seats. I think I can lift the seats up to 1.5", but still need to factor in mounting and excursion of the subs themselves.
  15. Alright I was able to pick up some mattress boxes this weekend. I'll tear things apart in the next day or two, build a mock up as best as I can, and see what to do. Still haven't heard anything back from Fox
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