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blenahan

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About blenahan

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/06/1995

MORE INFO

  • Name
    Brian Lenahan
  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Occupation
    Full time student
  • Interests
    Skydiving
  1. Awesome! Thank you so much for your help with this, I really appreciate it. Last question, are the new Polk db series better then the older ones (DB6501 vs DB6502)? Are the newer ones worth the extra money? I believe the older tweeter is a bit larger, but I'm not sure how much of a difference that would make.
  2. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll be sure to take a look at those. I've heard pretty good things about the polks, and they do seem to have one of the highest sensitivity rating so I might hop on those but I'm note entirely sure yet. If I were to get Polk comps up front, would you recommend getting the matching coaxials for the rear? Or should I just get something cheaper? Now when you mention tuning with my headunit, what exactly do you mean by that? If I'm using a passive crossover for the comps, do I need additional tuning with the HU? Also, do coaxials require any sort of tuning? I didn't think they did. Thanks for the help!
  3. I like to have some sort of music coming from behind me, would it be a good idea to get comps for the front and coaxials for the rear deck just to put something there? and what speakers would you recommend that don't absolutely need an amp? (at least for a little while)
  4. Okay, so I know what I need to do now, now I need the equipment... Since I'm going to have to do more than what I was anticipating or hoping for, I'm afraid I'll have to get the speakers and amplifier at two different times. Do you have suggestions for 6.5 coaxial speakers that would be okay to run off of a DEH 80PRS for a while before I'm able to get the amp, battery and everything else? I'm looking to spend no more than $150 per set.
  5. So you think I would need at least a second battery, upgrading the 3 wires, and probably a new alternator? How powerful of an alternator would I need? And should I just go with 0 gauge wire just to be safe? If I wanted to avoid upgrading my electrical system, how much more power do you think I could draw from my stock electrical safely? Thank you so much for the help!
  6. Right! I thought I was forgetting something... It's going in a 2004 Honda civic EX with stock electrical. As for the battery, I just have a 12 volt Duralast group size 51.
  7. Hey everyone, I have a Crescendo Symphony 600.1 powering 2 SSA DCONs and am now planning on upgrading my speakers from stock. I want to get a second amp for them, but am unsure of what exactly I need to do. I was looking into getting a Crescendo S4, but I'm worried that would be I'd drawing too much power from my car's stock electrical system. How can I tell when I need to upgrade my the electrical before an issue forces me to upgrade? Additionally, I've been reading about using remote relays, do I need to use one for 2 amps? If I don't need to upgrade my electrical system, how should I go about wiring the amps? Zero gauge wire from the battery to a distribution block with 2,4 gauge wires to the amps? Thank you all for the help!
  8. blenahan

    Extending wire

    Yeah, that's the only amp I have. You don't think that a 100A fuse would be too much?
  9. blenahan

    Extending wire

    Okay, so I'll be replacing the whole wire then. Now since I have to do that, I have to then replace the inline fuse with it. I currently have a 70A fuse on the 8 gauge wire, since I'm moving up to a thicker wire should I increase the fuse as well? I have a Crescendo symphony 600.1 amp. Thanks for the help!
  10. blenahan

    Extending wire

    Okay, so after going out to my car to start and finish this seemingly easy project, I noticed that the wire that I'm extending, the wire from the fuse box to the battery) seems to have corrosion on it... Would working with that be a bad idea? Should I cut past the inline fuse to the non exposed wire (see image below) and just get a new fuse? Or should I assume that the whole wire is corroded and replace the whole thing? I've had the wire in my car for about 3 years now and I don't want to make things harder than they have to be, but obviously if it needs to be done, I'm willing to do it. I simply don't want to ruin the electrical by not being thorough. [ATTACH]26557635[/ATTACH] Thanks everyone!
  11. blenahan

    Extending wire

    So even thought the wires are different types and look like different gauges, they can still be used together? This is what I was given to use [ATTACH]26557634[/ATTACH] I want to make sure that I understand this and do this properly. I don't need to solder both ends, I just twist them and push them into the splice reducer? Would it be a bad thing if I soldered each wire before using the reducer? I was then told that I need to do two layers of rubber electrical tape and then two layers of vinyl tape. Does this sound like the right thing i need to do? I really appreciate all of the help!
  12. Hi Everyone, it's been a while since I've last been on the forums, mainly because I've been so pleased with how my car has turned out. However, something has happened that I can't quite figure out and need some help with. A few weeks ago, I had to replace my car battery and while taking off the positive connection, my amp power cable broke at the ring terminal and now is a bit too short to simply reconnect it. Rather than dealing with the headache of running all new wire through my car to my trunk, I've decided that the best option would be to simply extend the current wire. After watching a few videos on how to solder (I had done it before, but it's been a while), I went to the good old Home Depot to pick up the wire, shrink tube, terminal connector, and proper solder (all I had was tin/lead solder). I bought what they told me what 8 gauge wire, but it looks smaller in diameter than the wire that I have, It also is not frayed like the wire that is currently in my car (see images below). Current wire in my car: [ATTACH]26557629[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]26557628[/ATTACH] New wire: [ATTACH]26557632[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]26557631[/ATTACH] Comparison: [ATTACH]26557630[/ATTACH] I guess what I'm trying to ask is, can I use these two types of wire together? I asked the person working there and they said yes, but that I had to completely solder both ends of both wires and then insert them into a splice reducer and tape it. Would this work? I feel like it doesn't sound as secure as my original plan of intertwining the two cables, wrapping it with a thin wire and soldering that together. I understand this is a lot of text, but I greatly appreciate any and all input. Thanks!
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