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About Evankiller

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/09/1995


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    Detroit, MI

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  1. Evankiller

    OEM Headunit to Aux

    Get an LC7i, that's plenty for your setup. The whole second headunit thing like I said, is pointless. Like TaylorFade said, there's no need for 9 channels, and if you feel so inclined, get another LC7i and hook it up. Then you don't need to cut or modify the stock harness in any way. Just buy speaker adapters from Metra for your car, and run wires from those to the LC7i in the trunk and back. It's a lot of work no doubt, but it's definitely more reasonable. Look on the used market for one, they go for like $50 used all the time. Also, you can keep steering wheel controls with 99% of decent aftermarket headunits.
  2. Evankiller

    OEM Headunit to Aux

    It would help if you specify what your reason/end goal is for this setup. I'm sure there's a better way to do it.
  3. Evankiller

    OEM Headunit to Aux

    I see no problem with this so long as you are not feeding a ton of voltage through the RCAs directly into the AUX of another headunit. Keep in mind they are designed for phones and stuff, not to be fed directly off an amp or another headunit, I'm not an expert, but I believe it could be a factor. The problem here is that you aren't changing anything about the signal. I assume you want an aftermarket headunit because your stock one has some kind of bass rolloff or weird EQ, or is lacking features like bluetooth? You would have more adjustability with an aftermarket unit, but it's not going to sound any better with this setup if the input signal is from the stock unit. If you already plan on having 2 headunits for some reason, why not just run the second one entirely separate?
  4. I am stuck in between these 2 boxes for my 2 SA12s. Yeah, I know pre-builts aren't really the best way to go, but I travel a lot for work so I would not be able to build one myself without waiting for months, and all my local audio shops have quoted me for 1-2 months out as well, I need to get these up and running now, I can always build one later. I see no problem with them as long as they are matched up well to the subs. I currently have 2 Kicker CompRs that came in a loaded enclosure. The Kicker enclosure was a great addition for casual listening but after hearing other setups, I know I'm missing out on anything below 40hz. Box 1 mentions a 32hz port tune, and Box 2 seems to be about 40hz, but is also much bigger. I would guess my current Kicker prefab is something like 42 or maybe even 47hz. I'm currently set on Box 1, but I want to know if I'm making a mistake. Again, my end goal is to get something that plays lower than my current setup, I am not concerned with overall volume as I'll also be using the full potential of my amplifier and essentially doubling the power at the same time. I'm not dead set on these 2 enclosures, so if you have anything that might be better, feel free. Subs: https://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-REV-3-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538952538&sr=8-2&keywords=sa12#customerReviews Sealed 1.0 ft^3 Ported 1.5-2.0 ft^3 @ 35hz Displacement 0.14 ft^3 Depth 6 1/2" Outside Diameter 12 5/8" Cut-Out 11 1/8" Box 1: https://www.amazon.com/Ported-Vented-Woofer-Enclosure-Subwoofers/dp/B078HQFPW6 Custom-Ported Car Sub Enclosure for Dual 12" Subwoofers Premium MDF with Reinforced 1-1/4" MDF Front Baffle 4.0 Cubic Feet @ 32Hz Sub Cutout Diameter: (2) 11-1/8" Dimensions (W x H x D): 33" x 16-1/2" x 21" Box 2: https://www.amazon.com/Power-QBOMB12VL-12-Inch-Speaker-Durable/dp/B00NG38NZM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539839246&sr=8-2&keywords=qbomb Subwoofer mounting depth: 22" Durable 5/8" Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) construction Box volume: 2.25 cubic feet (per chamber) Total box volume: 4.5 cubic feet Rhino Linings Brand Spray Coating Dimensions: 22-1/2"D x 36"W x 14-1/4"H