# gstokes

Members

534

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## Community Reputation

57 Excellent

• Rank
FÜKENGRUVEN
• Birthday 09/06/1959

Army Veteran and Dog Lover
• Name
George Stokes
• Location
Beaverton, Oregon
• Occupation
Retired
• Interests
Enjoy Retirement
• Audio System Setup
3-way Active
1. ## You don't need to a buy a Cadillac to enjoy Bose's Active noise Cancellation..

Most of y'all can go **** yourselves but I still love ya enough to share this with you. Just add microphones and stir, enjoy... Bose noise cancelling now available for cars without Bose stereos
2. ## how to use amp fuses to tell actual output?

Great info, thank-you very much ! I truly enjoy being educated by someone more knowledgeable
3. ## how to use amp fuses to tell actual output?

14 volts is a bit high, try using 13.8 and you end up with 1104 watts, now account for amplifier efficiency (class A, class B, etc.) and Voltage drop and you will have a more accurate representation of amplifier output.. It's not possible to make more than 1104 watts unless you increase source voltage or fuse rating, if the amplifier tried to make power then 1104 watts with a 13.8 volt source and 2 x 40 amp fuses what's going to happen, it'll blow the fuses because it can't draw more current than the fuses are rated for.. When calculating Power aka Wattage, Current and Voltage are inversely proportional, when voltage increases current decreases, when current increases voltage decreases.. Let's increase source voltage to 16 volts using the same 2 x 40 amp fuses, available wattage increased to 1204 watts.. Let's increase fuse rating to 2 x 50 amp fuses with the original 13.8 volt source, amplifier wattage increases to 1380.. Just remember to factor in amplifier class (efficiency rating) and voltage drop and you'll be fine.. Here is some good reading material> Voltage current resistance and electric power general basic electrical formulas mathematical calculations calculator formula for power calculating energy work equation power law watts understandimg general electrical pie chart electricity calculation Barry from Easy Way Electronics has more info > http://www.513electronics.com/how-to-size-your-audio-system-to-your-electrical-system/
4. ## Channel Summing..

too much controversy, look it up yourself...
5. ## 14 Dodge Dart Inline high output converter LC2i?

You just might need the LC6i, LC7i, etc.. It can't hurt anything.. I can't be sure without knowing frequency designation and channel layout so play it safe and use the LC6i or LC7i etc etc..
6. ## 14 Dodge Dart Inline high output converter LC2i?

No, the LC2i already has existing bass restoration circuitry, that cures the roll off.. If you had no Bass at all in the existing L/R channels then upgrade to LC6i, etc.. You have a full-range signal, it's just getting the bottom chopped off to keep sub-frequencies from damaging the speakers.. Let's say your head unit has 4 outputs, LF RF LR and RR, if the front channels only support 20Hz to 500Hz and the rear two channels support 500Hz to 20kHz then you have to sum the outputs to create full-range 20Hz to 20kHz signal for L/R channels.. Kapish ?
7. ## 14 Dodge Dart Inline high output converter LC2i?

If the head unit already supplies full-range left and right channels then YES, the LC2i is ideal. If the outputs from the head unit require summing to create a full-range signal then NO, the LC6i or LC7i is required. Full-range signal = 20 Hz- 20kHz
8. ## LCi2??

aka Bass Blockers, here's a handy dandy calculator to assist you in selecting the proper cap/s.. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc.asp#ccc
9. ## LCi2??

The LC2i is ideal unless the outputs need summing, if the h/u already provides full-range left and right channels then there is no need for the LC6i or LC7i..

11. ## Wooden Alternator

It's a little big to fit under the hood and you need to underdrive it about 100:1 just to spin it slow enough so it doesn't explode and send magnets flying in all directions, charging voltage is insufficient as well as charge current, 10 amps just isn't going to cut it
12. ## Good SQ at a fair price??

I may have this wrong but it appears that you will be using 2 tweeters per side and 2 - 6.5" speakers per side, you could eliminate the separate crossover and just use a 4 or 5 channel amplifier with built-in low pass/band pass/high pass active crossovers built-in then wire each pair of tweeters in parallel for a 2 ohm load and drive them with channels 1 and 2, then wire each pair of 6.5's in parallel for a 2 ohm load and drive them with channels 3 and 4, then you could wire a pair of 4 ohm subs in parallel creating a 2 ohm load for channel 5.. Choose an amplifier that delivers X amount of watts per channel at 2 ohms and run with it.. Even if you choose to use a 4 channel amplifier or 2 pairs of two-channel amplifiers for highs/mids then use a separate 1 or (2 channel bridged) amplifier for the lows you can still avoid using a separate crossover IF the amplifier has the desired active crossovers already built in. Use the KISS principle, Keep It Simple Stupid
13. ## why mono?

You can bridge channel 1 and 2 to power a component system in left door or kick panel, then bridge channel 3 and 4 to power component system on right side, my 5 channel amplifier outputs 75 watts per channel (1,2,3 and 4) at 4 ohm so there was no need to bridge any of the channels but if you have a low power 4 or 5 channel amplifier and want to drive a high power component set then bridging 1/2 & 3/4 is ideal.. To simplify things, you are combining 4 low power channels and creating 2 high power channels..
14. ## Help deciding between component system vs coaxial system

You are correct, the distance from speaker to ear is more equal with tweeters in the kick panel but they are still aimed at the listener, it is matter of preference.. I don't mount speakers in the kick panel simply because they are more prone to suffer physical damage from spilled drinks and whatnot, at least in my van.. I believe cars are a more likely candidate for tweeters in the kick panel then a van or truck and that is the reason i put my tweeters on the dash in both corners. At the time it was ideal location for my tweeters but there is short distance from left tweeter to ear and great distance from right tweeter to ear but i am able to balance the sound however there is substantial off-axial response from right tweeter, like you i would prefer a more equalized location such as kick panels but it is what it is.. If it's any consolation the midbass are mounted in the doors and i am not happy with their location, perhaps they will find a new home in the kick panels one day.. We are in total agreement..
15. ## Help deciding between component system vs coaxial system

For the most part components are always better but several manufacturers have found a way to make coaxials sound good. IMHO you want the tweeters in front of you and not beside you, the angle of dispersion is lowest with tweeters and they (could) suffer from off-axial frequency response, mostly depends on where they are in relation to where you are but generally speaking you want the tweeters pointed directly at your head, lower frequencies are not as critical as high frequencies but correct placement and aiming will still play a key role.
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