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fatboytyler

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About fatboytyler

  • Rank
    CarAudio.com Elite
  • Birthday 02/02/1994

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  • Location
    Easternl Kentucky
  • Occupation
    IT Company
  • Interests
    Football, hunting, computers
  1. Well, I finally got everything up and running. Wasn't without issue, mostly due to my own fault. Had to rerun a door wire because I didn't pay attention to how it was ran and rolled it up in the power window gear... Then I seemingly bumped the LC7i main channel's RCA and damaged it, but I've worked around no problem, just won't be adding back speakers anytime soon. I also was about to admit defeat on my subs until I realized I had them out of phase (what I get for installing them half asleep)... Door speakers are great sound quality. The subs certainly aren't perfect, but its not half bad. Biggest advantage I see now to having a quality stereo is the built in LPF/HPF filters. Overall I'm incredibly satisfied. Now I've just got to decide whether I want an 80PRS or a HU I can use Android Auto with and start saving over the next several months.
  2. Well without 0 tweaking my door speakers were up and running and sounding quite well after I banged my head against the wall because of Toyota's genius electrical engineers, but then I decided to yank a wire out in my door somewhere disconnecting my driver door speakers when I rolled down my window... Its so ******* weird. Toyota has the tweeters in the dash (which had twice the magnet as the factory 6x9s...) with a completely separate cable run to them. So I hooked into both of them at the speaker, after all of Toyota's adapters expecting them to have been filtered out, then just combining them at the LC7i... Well no, it seems Toyota sends full range signals to both... Then the LC7i's signal sense turn on will only turn on with the mid's wire and not the one tapped at the tweeter, YET the tweeter one is still sending signal that is playable through a speaker...
  3. We won't know until we try. Ever done it in a Tundra? Could have a different outcome. Like I said, I should have it finished tonight. I'll at least have my door speakers up and running at a minimum and can report back.
  4. Again, if I'm using my phone's BT to play music over it, I can't use it for hands free calling. Plus, I listen to my Sirius XM a lot on shorter drivers and would be unable to ever listen to it using a DSR-1. I've already stated that going aftermarket HU is BETTER, but I took the route that costs 1/5 of that option rather than wait another 6 months as a new HU is low on my list of priorities for spending over the summer. I'm not trying to win any competitions here.
  5. Both front and rear played a 30hz tone "well" for a factory system. Will play 25 just a wee bit so I'm hoping the LC7i will help boost that a decent bit, but most of my regular music is 30+ unless I'm playing Decaf or something. Will certainly be saving for a HU, but this has been a good learning experience so far. I can now say that I don't like installing an LOC... Since I didn't tap into the wires behind the stereo, but rather at the speakers themselves I had to run a lot of extra speaker wire... I got power ran and the driver side wired up. SHOULD have it finished and at least playing a little bit tomorrow evening. The Crewmax Tundra is sooo awesome with running cables and hiding them, holy hell. Was able to easily hide 2 0 gauge wires along the side perfectly. This will hands down be my prettiest install of all time. Toyota's wiring once it gets away from the headunit is horrific. None of wires match up to wiring diagrams and they've got adapter into adapter into adapter, etc.
  6. Yea its just a temporary thing until I can afford a new head unit and the whole 9 yards much later in the year. I don't have the tools to see what my front and rear channels are out putting, but simply by isolating sound to front and rear I believe the front is full range whereas the rear is more mid-bass range. Probably going to go ahead and tap front and rear channels (only installing front speakers for the moment -- will put something in the rear later) and run the front channel into the LC7i's 2nd channel so I can feed my sub stage what I believe to be truly full range. Looking like the rain might actually hold off enough for me to do this here in a bit. Will report back with my results!
  7. Like I said I'm not expecting perfect, its gotta be better than straight factory. Plus its a helluva lot cheaper than the whole 9 yards needed to replace the headunit and maintain XM radio and full steering wheel controls. I like the idea of the wireless RCA's other than you loose BT connectivity to the truck for hands free operation. I keep telling myself the LOC's have an unjust bad name. Suppose I'll found out the truth soon enough.
  8. This very well may be a disaster, but there is only one way to find out. I may regret it, but I think I can get it to work well enough as is. If the rain would stop today I could report back tomorrow, but I'll likely have to install it tomorrow...
  9. I certainly do believe I will upgrade eventually, but I've been systemless for about a year now and its killing me lmao. The headunit I want + the dash kit + steering wheel control adapter + sirius adapter was going to be well over $600. So I just screw it and paid $110 for the LC7i. Now I can slowly save up for a HU on a Black Friday/Cyber Monday deal. Plus, until I learn how I can get the trucks built in phone book voice recordings saved to a different device I won't consider replacing it (even if I've just got to record it on a phone...).
  10. My new power and speaker cables come in tomorrow then I'm going to begin my actual install in my new truck, but I'm keeping the factory head unit. I've got 95% of the build already planned, but am looking for suggestions on the best place to tap into the factory wiring. My original plan was just to tap into the factory harness at the head unit, running the cables back to my Lc7i. But, would be it easier/advisable to just tap into them right before they go into the door grommet so I don't even have to worry about getting behind the head unit?
  11. First off, long time no see former and new members! I inherited a 2010 Tundra and just sold my old 2000 Tundra this weekend, thus finally stripped out all my speakers and amps. I'm looking to put my old setup into this 2010, but I've been reading some strange things that Toyota did and am looking for suggestions. First off I'm keeping the factory head unit so I'll be hooking into an Audiocontrol LC7i. From my understanding, Toyota used a proprietary speaker size that resembles a 6x9 in the front doors that requires aftermarket brackets to fit ANY 3rd party speaker. In my case I'm putting in 6.5" speakers. Do any of you Tundra people have suggestions for which brackets to get? I'm not worry about the rear speakers at the moment as I don't have an aftermarket set for them and will be leaving them factory or simply disconnecting them for now. This truck also has the tweeters in the dash panel, which may require a bracket, if so what do you all recommend? Or would you all recommend just cutting a hole in the door panel and mounting my tweets there? The 6.5" are the CDT ES-6iM accompanied with CDT TW125 tweeters. I'll also be putting in my 2 SA-12 subs in there so if anyone could point me in the direction of someone that could redesign a box (just a design plan) for me it'd be appreciated.
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