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Terrum

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About Terrum

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/17/1993

MORE INFO

  • Name
    Ben
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Interests
    UK, Kent
  • Audio System Setup
    Unknown Speakers, Pioneer MVH-350BT Stereo

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  1. Terrum

    Whoops, a newbie blew his sub!

    It's a 2010 Renault Clio 1.2 16v. What sizes are you looking for exactly? I'll try fetch them in the morning if you really feel it will help. The sub is 750W RMS https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_92822_Orion-XTR152D.html alongside the amp which is also 720W RMS @ 1ohm https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r750-1d/ Could you recommend a specific AGM battery, or could you let me know if the battery I linked (Stinger SPV44) would be a good match? With its wattage of 1320 it should meet the 750 RMS of my amp and have lots leftover for headlights etc, presuming the alternator isn't the issue. Many thanks! :)
  2. Terrum

    Whoops, a newbie blew his sub!

    Sorry to bump an old post but I just want to keep all the information in one place to save repeats. I finally got myself a replacement sub and now I need to look into any potential causes of the clipping. Even with EQs turned off and no bass boosts, the amp still seems to be clipping at high volumes. I truly believe the amp and sub are more than capable of performing at high volume, but I noticed my headlights were dimming on bass notes so I think my amp is clipping due to lack of power, rather than incorrectly set gains. Car Electronix's video suggests that I get a better car battery for headlights that are dimming: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmJvre00KQ0 Whilst other sources are suggesting a capacitor or a better alternator (although I really didn't think I would need a capacitor or better alternator for a 750W RMS setup). My current stock/factory battery is 36Ah and 330A, and in accordance to the video's information of matching the wattage with the cranking amps as a rough average, a Stinger SPV44 (44Ah and 550A) should be perfect as a replacement battery, should this be something I need. Of course I can't expect anyone here to give me a definitive answer, but any theoretical or 'personal experience' answers will truly help me, but my question is, will a battery upgrade stop the headlights dimming and eliminate the clipping? (If lack of power is the issue in the first place - process of elimination is my key here! Plus I love learning ) Any help, suggestions and responses are greatly appreciated! TL;DR: Does my stock car battery of 36Ah and 330A have the ability to fully power an 750W RMS amp or will I need an upgrade battery?
  3. Terrum

    Whoops, a newbie blew his sub!

    I'll be sticking with the sealed box I have until I feel confident enough to use the ported box. Using the maths from this site http://www.decibelcar.com/articles/37-car-audio-electronics/119-subsonic-adjust.html if my box is tuned to 40hz I should mathmatically have my subsonic filter set to 30hz exactly. But anyway, thanks so much! Seriously appreciate everyone's help
  4. Terrum

    Whoops, a newbie blew his sub!

    The provider of the ported box said that it is tuned to 40hz. So does that mean I have to set my amplifier to subsonic 40hz so that it blocks out any frequencies lower than 40hz? I think to be safe I'll just stick with a sealed box for now, if it happens again at least I know it isn't an issue with the ported box then (or my lack of proper amplifier configuration to ported boxes)
  5. Terrum

    Whoops, a newbie blew his sub!

    Sorry about that, I should have mentioned the amp is a Rockford R750-1D. The 'Punch EQ' was turned up just slightly, although I'm concerned because the remote is called 'Punch EQ' too, I thought the remote was for gain? Confirmation on this would be great! (EDIT: https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/1510-56888-01/ seems to suggest that the 'Punch' is just part of the name, but it controls the internal gain of the amplifier and has nothing to do with the Punch EQ?) The ported enclosure I used was this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262891168376 but seeing as it doesn't mention what frequency it is tuned in, I assume it was a bad purchase. Whether it was partly to blame or not for the blowout is beyond me! I might just stick with an enclosed box now incase I was having subsonic issues with the vented box. For the effort and price it's going to be to find someone to recone it, I'll probably just have to buy another sub, will be more careful next time!
  6. Turns out I was being a little too bass happy and accidentally blew my Orion XTR152D - a lesson well learnt here for a newbie and likely a high cost to pay as punishment! I have a feeling it's the voice coils that are burnt out, the cone and spider seem to look fine and are still moving when I gently push on the sub. Would an improperly tuned ported box cause the voice coils to burn? It seems I was only having issues once I converted from an enclosed box to a ported one - but might just be a coincidence! I gave the sub a little shake and it has a rattly sound, which is what makes me think it is the voice coils: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4hk-lX1gxs Would it be worth getting it repaired? Or will I just have to shell out for a replacement sub and be more careful? Any help is greatly appreciated!
  7. The twin pack I linked above has the 1500 amp. Would you recommend that? Otherwise, if you feel the 1000 doesn't perform as well, would the Rockford perform any better?
  8. @osl What if I went for the twin Orion pack instead? http://caraudiosecurity.com/xtr-twin-15-6000w-bass-package-deal Two subs, more powerful amp (I wonder why :D), and it definitely would fit in my trunk. Would you recommend that pack as an alternative?
  9. I am out of the US unfortunately! (UK only) Therefore I can buy from any UK site which should hopefully stock any recommendations you are prepared to give Which I really appreciate, by the way. Budget is heavily negotiable - I just want the best for the cheapest possible (which I know is like asking to perform a miracle, but it's not like I want to spend cheap - I just don't want to overspend on brands that won't perform as well I'm sure you understand!) I preferably want a 15" sub, as far as research goes, those are the best for rumbles (I really want to annoy my neighbours! ) I'll be playing mostly trap/rap music, so anything with a heavy, rumbly deep bass! I currently have a 12" Kenwood sub (2kW) which performs great for my needs, but seeing as that's $200 tops with a cheap Boss amp (1.5kW) and it's only 12", it just doesn't perform brilliantly with the lowermost frequencies of trap etc! But if I have to give a budget, £500/$650 would be my budget. Although it -really- is negotiable!
  10. This was the original pack I was getting, that has all the amp and sub specifications: http://caraudiosecurity.com/xtr-15-3000w-bass-package-deal (XTR-1000.1 & XTR154D) Unfortunately the amp is out of stock and they are trying to offer me the Rockford amp instead: http://caraudiosecurity.com/prime-r750-1d-750-watt-class-d-full-range-mono-amplifier The RMS of the Orion amp would have been 400W at 4 ohms, but the RMS of the Rockford amp would have been 500W at 2 ohms (which is why I'm guessing they are swapping the sub for a XTR152D instead of a XTR154D) Thanks for letting me know I'll have to pass down their offer then and hopefully find a better pack within my budget.
  11. Hi fithwheel, thanks a lot for your response and correction! Unfortunately I am a newbie and just want to know if the Rockford amp I have been offered would perform the same, or better, than the Orion amp. Especially with the XTR152D sub. I'm hoping someone that has experience with the Orion amp or similar can tell me if the Rockford amp will perform the same, or better, than the Orion amp (or just any recommendation from someone with high experience) Really sorry if I am sounding blatant or asking for a straight answer - I worry easily is all
  12. Hi community, I bought a sub amp bundle for an Orion XTR-1000.1 amp and Orion XTR154D sub. Unfortunately the seller is claiming they are out of stock of the amp, so they suggested the Rockford Fosgate Prime R750-1D instead. They also offered the XTR152D sub for the lower impedance/ohms to match the amp (?) However when I looked up the amp and it doesn't seem as powerful in RMS or even in maximum wattage. So I'm not sure if the Rockford amp is actually going to perform as well as (or better than) the Orion amp. (Orion amp is 4000w with 400w RMS on 4-ohm, and Rockford amp is unknown wattage with 500w RMS on 2-ohm) The 152D and 154D are both 3000w if that helps. A little help would be fantastic. Is the Rockford Fosgate Prime R750-1D better than Orion XTR-1000.1 or not? Should I go with the offer? Any other sub/amp recommendations within the £500/$650 price range? Many thanks!
  13. Great help! Will have to rewire it and ensure this new cable has a better connection and stronger crimps! Thanks a ton
  14. I have excessively used (probably for about an hour every 2-3 days when I am doing a long commute) a Boss PH2.500 amplifier for over a year now, which I installed with a 10-gauge wiring kit, which I believe I have never overloaded (output gain is below half, bass boost is off, crossover is managed by the headunit to ensure it is only outputting low frequencies). The only way I can think of potentially overloading the amp is through high volumes. It doesn't distort though nor does it sound damaging during such though. A few days ago the protection light came on, so I planned to look into it the next day. But when I went to look into it, there was no power going into it at all. Used a multimeter to check the all the cables, everything was fine except for the main power cable. Turned out the part that crimped the fuse to the wire burnt off. Although what is puzzling me is why it was going into protection mode before the wire burnt out, and why it burnt off in the first place. I will provide photos momentarily if need be however if anyone has any suggestions to avoid this happening again that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks to everyone for reading this
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