Jump to content

bbeljefe

Members
  • Content count

    1,813
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

696 Excellent

About bbeljefe

  • Rank
    CarAudio.com Elite
  • Birthday 09/20/1968

MORE INFO

  • About me
    Middle aged bass head... just opening a new car audio business here in Shreveport, called Audio Anarchy, LLC
  • Name
    Brandon Buck
  • Location
    Shreveport, LA
  • Occupation
    Owner of Audio Anarchy, LLC in Shreveport, LA
  • Interests
    Audio, Motorcycles, Audio, Philosophy, Audio, Women, Audio
  • Audio System Setup
    Alpine CDA-9886 & PXA-H100, Sundown Neo Pro 8s, Soundstream tweets, Sundown SA-15 in t-line
  1. Bought these motors and baskets to build a set of subs and have decided to go another route. The baskets aren't exactly the same but they're the same dimension so there's no problem with fitment... just a different number of cooling holes where the motor mounts. The baskets are painted Corvette yellow with red pearl and the paint is base coat clear coat. There are a few nicks in the paint, owing to the fact that they've been sitting in the shop and moved to a new shop since I painted them. If someone wants them another color I can also do that but I have to know EXACTLY what color paint you want before I can give you a price because automotive colors vary in cost. Often by a lot. I can also do candy or any other sort of custom paint you might want. Motors and baskets are $800.00 plus actual shipping cost. I won't charge you to handle the shipping but I also won't pay to ship something that's yours. ;-)
  2. Seat belts aren't bolted to the frame, unless you're talking about a unibody vehicle. Also, seat bolts have thread locking compound on them AND paint inside the female portion. They are notoriously poor grounding points.
  3. bbeljefe

    A few questions

    "mines at x20" Your crossover is set to 20 times the labeled value. What that means is that if you have the crossover point set to 80 on the dial, it's actually crossed over at 1600Hz. I recommend starting at 80Hz on mids. As for the whine, check all power connections, including those under the hood and the factory grounds.
  4. If you have two 2Ω SVC subs, they can only be wired to 1 or 4Ω. As for the difference between the alternator case and the engine, they're exactly the same place from an electrical standpoint... so long as the alternator to bracket, bracket to engine and engine to frame connections are clean and tight. You didn't mentioned where and how the amplifier is connected to both the power wire and grounds but, I would hazard a guess that the problem lies somewhere in those connections. Go back through all your connections and make sure they're clean and tight. This includes all of the new wiring you added as well as ALL connections between the amp and alternator.
  5. I haven't posted anything about the Audio Anarchy Goat in a while so here's a little update...
  6. Another video. This one demonstrates the problem on the "CT" chassis amps and shows another manufacturer's Korean board with the same provisions for vibration dampening... actually being utilized. [video=youtube;jaNmq-O_KaE]
  7. [video=youtube;sF8h7R1-gnI]
  8. It isn't hit or miss as that would indicate the possibility that some amps have the necessary protection and some don't. And to my knowledge, that's not the case. The thing is, we know that the lack of vibration protection is a problem. We also know that if the amplifier is subjected to vibration, it will at some point fail. When that will happen is entirely subject to a number of factors, including but not limited to: 1) The intensity of the vibration. 2) The frequency (in Hertz) of the vibration. 3) The frequency (in time) of the vibration. Everything has an Fs (resonance frequency) and the boards in these amps are no exception. My guess would be that subjecting them to their Fs is probably the quickest path to failure but, sufficiently high levels of vibration at other frequencies can also cause failure, albeit at differing periods of time. So in the end, no one can predict how quickly they will fail or at which frequency, without a significant amount of research... which isn't something that's really warranted. What that means for your buddy's amp is that no one knows when it will fail but there is a very high probability that it will.
  9. If you own or are thinking of buying any large CT chassis amps, please read this post and watch the short video I'm including here. I was a CT dealer for a long time but have dropped the line and this post will demonstrate but one of the myriad reasons why I no longer sell the brand. To begin with, the amps I'm talking about are the 2.2K, 3K, 4K, 7K and while it's yet to be confirmed, the 125.4. The problem with these amplifiers is a conspicuous lack of any sort of vibration damping in the center of the rather wide PCB (board). The designer of these boards saw fit to design them with holes that are meant to have posts in them that house rubber or vinyl mounts that would secure the PCB and stop any vibration damage and, the boards are currently manufactured with those holes in place. However, none of these amps, up until the time I dropped the line, have them inside. The result of this manufacturing omission is the genesis of much of the talk you've heard about CT amps being subject to going up in smoke at any time and that talk is not rumor or bashing, although it is often presented as such by people who do not actually know or understand the problem. If you have one of these amps DO NOT install it inside the cabin of your vehicle, whether it's on an amp rack or not, because the vibrations from sound pressure will eventually cause the legs on at least one FET to break away and, of course, let the smoke out of it. My experience has been with two 2200.1s and two 3000.1s, all of which have broken legs on FETs and one of which has been to repair twice for the same problem. The 2.2Ks were mounted on a sturdy amp rack in a trunk and they lasted about 10 months. Those were the longest lasting, btw. One of the 3Ks went up in smoke about 40 minutes after it was installed on an amp rack that was in front of a box and the other lasted six days on an amp rack that was mounted above the blow through opening in a truck. That amp was sent to repair (after CT refused to even give me an RA number for it) and was then put on an amp rack in front of a very sturdy single 18 box. Prior to the CT amp being installed there had been an Audiopipe 3K in that location for about four months and after it smoked in ~8 days, we installed a Skar Audio 4500.1 and that amp has been playing for about two months now. I've also had conversations with a handful of other former CT dealers, all of whom have experienced similar issues with these amplifiers. Lastly, if you've had problems with these amps please contact me by phone or text at the number listed on my facebook page (facebook.com/audioanarchyllc) and send any photos you have as evidence of said problems. Thanks! BB Oh and, here's the video I mentioned....
  10. bbeljefe

    CT Sounds 1400.1 VS Digital Designs M1C?

    I don't know if the issues have been addressed because I dropped the line some months ago and started doing research. All of the large chassis amps, mostly known as the CT chassis, are plagued with vibration problems because there is no vibration damping in the center of the boards where there is supposed to be. The boards were designed for it and they're manufactured with holes in them for posts and rubber mounts but none of the CT amps I've seen have had them in them. The affected bass amps are the 2200.1, 3000.1, 4000.1 and 7000.1. I also suspect that the 125.4 doesn't have them but I don't have one in my hands right now to confirm that. I will, however, have one in my hands by week's end. To date I have two 3Ks and two 2.2Ks (the amp you're running) that have gone up in smoke from this manufacturing omission. I'll drop a link here to a short video I did on the subject but I also plan to make a thread about it and go into a bit more detail as I find out more.
  11. [video=youtube;9kdPZH7bOao&list=UUOhdog3E1Ut9Gxr1mJNERTA]
  12. bbeljefe

    subwoofer knowledge?

    Here's a box I did for two 10s in a customer's Titan:
  13. bbeljefe

    Is this fair?

    Your price isn't bad, depending on the quality of the box design and construction. As for the difference between bgowdy's setup and yours, there is a lot more to consider than just the number of subs and the power on them. Deadening, placement, box design, electrical equipment quality and a variety of others. And his one square 15 is about the same cone area as your two round 12s. ;-)
  14. Okay, but is your vent a slot or round vent? Or is the 6.5" number you mentioned the vent area?
  15. You shouldn't have any problem with the vent facing forward in the trunk but I'm curious about the vent you describe. Is it a slot or a round vent? Either way, it's a lot of vent area for a single 8, unless I'm reading things completely wrong. Also, unless that sub is a very low EPB sub, the box is on the large side of what it would like.... if the area you gave is net.
×