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Jeffdachef last won the day on May 10

Jeffdachef had the most liked content!


About Jeffdachef

  • Rank
    Gunz That Turn on Nunz
  • Birthday 06/03/1990


  • Name
  • Location
    South Coast Metro, CA
  • Occupation
    Small Business Owner
  • Interests
    Electronics, mainly computer and audio components.
  • Audio System Setup
    Enough to do a hair trick on higher tuning.

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3,083 profile views
  1. Jeffdachef

    Hdx3 18 bandpass design

    they are only good in 6th orders which are bigger than 4ths. Dont even waste your time with a 4th on them. hit up hunter martin on facebook for a design. EZDB designs is also his business name on facebook. he's made loads of 160db builds.
  2. Jeffdachef

    Best for the buck 6x9 replacements for 2019 f250

    yeah most people dont know the sh*tty stock sound is from a cheap mass produced stock head unit with weak amplification and the most important, cheapo china/mexico low resolution dacs that just makes your music garbage from the start. No amount of gear can fix a a stock head unit's sound.
  3. Jeffdachef

    Chicken breast or pork chops?

    both. duh.
  4. Jeffdachef

    Best for the buck 6x9 replacements for 2019 f250

    your idea = degraded sound quality. Anything aftermarket requires power to reach proper potential and a clean flat signal from the head unit. Stock head units have their own EQ curves that specifically work for stock speakers. Stock head units at best output 3-5 watts per channel, You'll notice a bigger upgrade from swapping the head unit or adding an amp or DSP/AMP combo rather than switching speakers actually switching speakers out alone has a higher probability of sounding worse than stock losing all bass and sounding tinny if you dont do full acoustical door treatments or add power/processing.
  5. Jeffdachef

    Old new fart

    Its because all DSPs do that. IDK why they even brought it up so dumb haha.
  6. you must got really incompetent shops. Clipping at 8 ohms is still clipping at 8 ohms, With noobs nowadays they'll be soo dissatisfied with the output that they'll blow the sub even at 8 ohms, they'll likely put on some bass boost or bass EQ rather than doing proper level adjustments. With impedance rise you are actually seeing around 16 ohms reactive wired to 8 ohm nominal. Dont assume that everyone will be as stupid as the shop doing your setup lmaoooo.
  7. Jeffdachef

    Midbass in back, coax in front?

    use a 6.5 or 6x9 IB subs in the back. silverflutes up front,
  8. Jeffdachef

    Time Alignment or speaker delete question

    kick panel 6.5s would be worth it to buy one of those universal enclosures.
  9. Jeffdachef

    More noise grounding to chassis than battery

    dedicated ground runs to the battery for the win. Skips all that prep BS.
  10. Jeffdachef

    is this safe or not?

    you are fine. Its bad when its dropping under 12.
  11. Jeffdachef

    Old new fart

    if you do the bluetooth mode it will sound better. If you to do the hi level outputs, it wont be better than the twk because it does not de-equalize the signal You need to tap into the signal before the inline crossovers. I said seperate monoblock because if you plan on using the stock factory woofer, its not gonna work with bluetooth mode becuase there's no signal line from the dsp to the factory sub amp. It'll only work when playing music from the head unit.
  12. so called professionals couldnt set your gains right and caused you to blow your subs? Have fun with them. what you'll hear with a lot of brick and mortar shops most of the times is how they gonna sell you sh*t and make money off you. you literally could have gotten what you wanted without going to hertz and dropping stacks of paper if the installer was worth a sh*t and got the the loudness and sound quality you needed along without you having to go through this blown sub business.
  13. your amp can run the subs but you are the one running the system to the dirt clipping the hell out of the signal out of dissatisfaction of the output. So what you need is to get a fck ton louder so you dont ever run into this issue again and keep the amp and sub at safe operating levels while still getting brutal amounts of bass. Also never ever mention max power again EVER unless you want everyone in the car audio community to make fun of how nooby you are. its always RMS wattage ratings that matter. so order of importance 1s thing you can do is change the enclosure to a more efficient enclosure, do a properly done custom ported box built exactly for the sub's electro mechanical parameters and the car's acoustics in mind. AKA you need a skilled box builder that really knows how to get you loud and sound good.(ones that have proof of winning modern day spl contests doing big numbers with big bandwidth) 2nd thing, bigger amp for more headroom and to account for impedance rise. Right now wired at 1 ohm, you are getting 2-4 ohm power out of your amp. Thats just how the physics of a coil moving through a magnetic field works, the impedance does not stay at 1 ohm, it'll change at every frequency and the amount of power you actually get is FAR less than you can ever think of. If its the Pioneer GM-D9601, you are at best getting 500 to 800 watts total for both subs wired at 1 ohm after impedance rise. If your hertz subs are 750 watts RMS(not max) you'll need at least a 2000+ rms amp to get the max performance out of them. However this is definitely 2nd place compared to the box. 3rd thing, upgrade electrical so you can handle the power. Also clean up your signal, if its an old outdated head unit with low preout voltage, you'll have weak bass from that as well. 4th thing, upgrade to beefier subs/add more cone area.
  14. Jeffdachef

    Old new fart

    You want to get signal before the factory amp if possible but when you do that, you are still subjected to the horrible sound quality of your stock head unit, nothing is going to save you from that. With the bluetooth dongle install you are literally just skipping your head unit completely and just playing music straight to the sound processor which literally becomes your new head unit that you can tuck away someplace hidden and you'll get the cleanest possible signal. If you compare it to hard wired to your stock head unit, there's literally no comparison, one will sound like complete sh*t that no amount of audio tuning and fix while the other just sounds amazing even before you do any audio adjustments off the bat and it sounds even better with a good tune. All your audio options and control is done on the phone. Download the dayton dsp app on the apple store or google playstore and play around to see what kind of audio tuning features you get with it. But you can hard wire it with high level speaker outputs from the front and rear or front and sub to get a full range signal from the stock head unit to the DSP and compare it yourself to just playing music straight to the bluetooth dongle. Its pretty easy to switch between the two. To play through your head unit, just play music on your head unit. To play bluetooth, dont play anything on the head unit and pair to the dsp via bluetooth and connect to the dsp on the dayton app as well and viola you can play bluetooth. (if you have a samsung phone 8 generation or higher phone that can connect to two bluetooth devices at once, you'll need to forget the stock head unit's bluetooth on your phone) If you have the JL 6 channel, it will be channels 1 and 2 for tweeters, 3 and 4 for midbass. 5 and 6 full range for rears(or dont do any rears at all and focus all power onto the fronts by bridging the amp for the mids alone. Thats how modern SQ competition cars do it nowadays because any rear speaker destroys the soundstage and center image. Then 7 and 8 for subwoofer. You'll want a seperate monoblock amp for the subwoofer. You definitely want to focus all your money and power to the front stage if what you looking for is killer sound quality.
  15. Jeffdachef

    Old new fart

    https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-408-4x8-dsp-digital-signal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio--230-500 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-bt40-bluetooth-data-and-streaming-usb-interface-for-dsp-408--230-502 before i was rudely interrupted by the other A-hole