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Jeffdachef last won the day on March 3

Jeffdachef had the most liked content!


About Jeffdachef

  • Rank
    Gunz That Turn on Nunz
  • Birthday 06/03/1990


  • Name
  • Location
    South Coast Metro, CA
  • Occupation
    Small Business Owner
  • Interests
    Electronics, mainly computer and audio components.
  • Audio System Setup
    Enough to do a hair trick on higher tuning.

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2,525 profile views
  1. Jeffdachef

    Tidal App

    it just appears in your library if its already on your phone. If your phone is already aptx capable and you already have music and your head unit aptx capable then it should be lossless streaming already.
  2. Jeffdachef

    ppi 900.4 blown channels

    Its just soundstream that pulled that sh*t ppi never did the bait and switch.
  3. Jeffdachef

    ppi 900.4 blown channels

    mines died peacefully too. I guess its good power for 3-5 years or so then dead. The time it was alive, it was bulletproof, took amp power and ground and high powered speaker shorts like a champ. Handled 2 ohms bridged easy aka 1 ohm loads. etc... I fully made sure it went through hell so i know why mines died at the time it did. Using the pioneer gm 8604 right now, lost slight output here and there but not enough to be pissed.
  4. Jeffdachef

    My first "Active" "SQ'ish" build attempt.

    let me guess you didnt keep the receipt
  5. Jeffdachef

    Factory sound processors?

    it depends on the processor if it has a factory DE-EQ and signal summing tthen it would be fine. If it doesn't then its not going to help.
  6. Jeffdachef

    Factory sound processors?

    learn what sound processors are before you open your mouth.
  7. upgrade to HID or LED light, you'll never have the issue again. When your dash lights dim is when its a concern.
  8. Jeffdachef

    Equalizer Question

    none of that fixes the sh*tty signal coming from the factory head unit due to built in high pass filters and sh*tty stock factory eq curve(to compensate for sh*tty stock speakers). I'd save up for something that dequalizes the signal and flattens everything out summing all the signals and restoring the bass. The audiocontrol lc7 is literally all boosts, no actual sound restoration at all, just a sh*tty loc. However if you just want something louder than stock then you'll be fine, if you want actual sound quality, definitely look into a DSP setup. Dayton DSP, audison bit one, rockford 360.3 etc... All have crossovers, time alignment, 31 band parametric eqs etc.. Those stand alone EQs are more trouble than they are worth SQ wise.
  9. Jeffdachef

    too much power? need upgrades?

    your master head unit volume, subwoofer level and amplifer gain control all control how much power goes to your subs. Its always better and safer to have too much power rather than not enough to keep the signal clean while getting the output you need.
  10. Jeffdachef

    Looking for sub recommendations

    when the fking thread op asked for something louder with relatively good SQ.
  11. Jeffdachef

    Looking for sub recommendations

    lol its not a blanketed statement and its more like saying a tesla model S is faster than a toyota prius. Loud is quantifiable is measured not subjective. Sit in a 160 db car and sit in a 150 db car. or better yet sit in a 150 db car on an audio control meter and then sit in a 150 db car in a term lab meter. You'll sh*t your pants with a real 150 DB if all you heard were "loud" sealed boxes. Sound quality is getting more and more objective than subjective with proper measurement devices which translates to actual real world performance and is agreed by the vast majority who know what they are doing. But hey man, keep living under a rock if that makes you happy.
  12. Jeffdachef

    Looking for sub recommendations

    its because people in the past dont have actual ported box building knowledge based on cabin gain, ts parameters modeled on an enclosure software and RTA testing which resulted in sh*t bandwidth, peaky response and horrible group delay (accuracy) Again the setups of the 90s arent as loud as you think they are when compared to today's standards. Back then they used audio control meters which are literally at least 5 dbs less than now on a term lab meter and back then 150s was considered big dawgs. Now with stricter Term Lab Magnums, you really have to be "LOUD" LOUD, a 150 nowadays will absolute destroy 150s in the 90s at a lower bass frequency as well, people are doing 150s in the 15-25hz zone. The standard nowadays is 160 db for the loud people club and no sealed setup can ever hope to join unless its a 4th order. Not to mention i heard you mention scores with the window down, thats technically outlaw and our outlaw numbers are generally 5 db louder as well. Usually we measure strict with windows up meter on the dash in order for it to count as a real score so most 90s spl vehicles will fall flat on their face. On the SQ side of things, you can do in car frequency response tests for transfer function and cabin gain then tune your enclosure low enough to balance out the cabin gain and get maximum usuable bandwidth which is a lot more than sealed which is completely left at the mercy of cabin gain which is not really SQ at all in most cases because your 50hz is 5-15 db stronger than your 28hz mean while with a properly designed ported, 6th order or 1/4 wave transmission line, you can achieve a 1-2 db variance between 20hz to 50hz out the box and with some RTA and DSP tuning with parametric EQs (which the 90s rarely had) you can get less than 1 db variance. With time alignment and beefier midbasses with lots of mids and highs power for cheap, you can get a perfect blend between midbass and subs for actual SQ portion. With subwoofer modeling software, you can also predict group delay (how fast, accurate and tight the sub will perform). Our standards for sound quality is also far beyond what the 90s comprehension of sound can think of. We have both the proper installation methods of the 90s plus extreme amounts of power and headroom, electricals and the biggest game changer, digital signal processors (DSPs) usually with 8 to 10 channels of rca outputs for 3 way active front stages with mids midbass and midrange all fully bandpass crossover capable at any frequency 20hz to 20khz from -6 db slope to -24 db slopes with bessel, link witz riley or butterworth types of crossovers. Time alignment for perfect sound stage and individual left and right 31 band parametric EQ. Thats why they have a no dsp class for people in the 90s to compete because they have zero chance against DSPs. People in the 90s lacked the tools, knowledge and technology to achieve the results we are capable of today. I'd recommend you checking out a MECA SQ/SPL or DB drag organizations and see what the game is like nowadays. Sorry for the chunk of text but you look like you needed some severe catching up with the times sir. Hope this helps clear some stuff up.
  13. This is a whole playlist on DSP tuning, if you list particular dsp models it would help. I have hands on experience with Rockford 360.3, arc audio ps8, dayton dsp, rockford dsr1, and soundstream harmony so just hit me up if you have specifics otherwise they all work the same. Just some have a better EQ than others.
  14. Jeffdachef

    Looking for sub recommendations

    put those focals into a proper custom ported box and save yourself the hassle. Subs dont get loud in a sealed box and a ported box can be designed for sound quality.
  15. Jeffdachef

    What would be better then 2 kicker 41l7122

    yeah its a 5-10 db loss going from the old audio control meters to the new termlab magnum which is heavily calibrated for extreme accuracy. I was well over a 164 on the audio control meters at this older brick and mortar shop that claimed they perfectly calibrated the meter but my setup is not even close to that LOL.