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About Roland

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    Senior VIP Member
  • Birthday 11/28/1960


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  • Audio System Setup
    HU- Pioneer 80PRS, Amps- PPI P-900.4, & P-1000.1, Sub- Dayton UM10-22 Ultimax, front- JBL-MS62c
  1. Roland

    Adding a DSP? Worth it? Pros/Cons?

    Your right if your happy with your sound then it's all good. Some people can't, or just don't, appreciate a good sound stage. Or they listen to recordings that don't add much to the enjoyment of the sound stage. To them a DSP is a waste. For me the sound stage and tonality is the most important factor so a dsp is critical. Speaker locations can't even get close to what like, it's just is impossible without left and right EQ and time alignment and most important the skill to tune properly.
  2. Roland

    whats better?

    Good to know. I was trying to ask how low will they play. I was thinking they might be good at 100hz
  3. Roland

    whats better?

    Where are you recomend high passing your Crescendo PWX6.5 and at what slope? I assume you run them IB in doors.
  4. Roland

    Fried Alternator ???

    I know you're Out,,, but you misunderstood. The short in the alternator was a "complete short" it shorted the battery also. Even though the battery had power, it measured as a closed circuit until i disconnected the alternator. Just disconnecting the alternator allowed me to drive home just on battery power. like i said this was a strange happening, at least it was for me. The "birth sheet" on the Alternator showed 166 AMPs @ 6000 alt-rpm (about 2000 rpm engine IIRC) and of course they are quick blow fuses. So highly doubt anything was over stressing. I found out the alternator failure also damaged the JBL MS-2 And yeah i agree the battery was bad and did contribute to the failure. Anyway swapped it out ordered another MS-2 and its good to go.
  5. Roland

    Fried Alternator ???

    That van has 320 k on it it turns over fairly easily but still runs like a champ. We can disagree on the job of the Alternator. In theory i'd agree it's not for charging the battery,,, but in reality it's often called on to do just that. Anytime you have jump start a car, because someone left the lights, on or ran there stereo with the car off for to long. Or even when a car has a weak battery, the alt is required to do that extra duty. And alternators do it without issue every day. Sulfate is what accumulates on the plates of your battery, it limits the charge your plate can accept. High voltage 15.5-16 can help desulfate the plates but some chargers send too much amps and risk boil off... A low amp high voltage pulse charger can rejuvenate a weak battery be knocking the sulfate off and back into electrolyte solution... I have a roll around 250 amp charger also, but the pulse charger does a better job just take longer. The best way to use the pulse charger is to charge the battery, then discharge the battery, and repeat a couple of times if needed. I just realized iv'e had the same analog load tester for 40 years. It looks very simular to this one. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-100-Amp-Capacity-Economy-Battery-Load-Tester/21642133?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227016799366&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40839783632&wl4=pla-78653487152&wl5=9010806&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=21642133&wl13=&veh=sem
  6. Roland

    Fried Alternator ???

    Good feedback guys, sometime it's good to think things through out loud with others folks. The battery was just enough to barely start it one time, but yeah i get now why I should have charge it up first. I just wanted to make sure the alternator could do the job, so charging it before hand seemed counter my goal. That van had the OEM alternator for at least 200K miles on there before and it took similar abuse but never failed, well,,, actually it did fail Hum. Anyway, next time, i'll charge battery first, and i think OEM or high performance may be worth the extra coin when it comes to alternators. I desulfurized the battery with a little pulse charger over night load tested it and now it's good to go
  7. Roland

    Fried Alternator ???

    No not really, just thinking out loud,,, and practicing my English. I never heard of the heat cycle, good to know i'm going to look into that. I never had a alternator short before I do was wonder what exactly fails to cause a alternator to short. All the alt's i've replaced just had low or no output, the short is just new to me and caught me off guard.
  8. Roland

    Fried Alternator ???

    I murdered it alright I also been known to murder the English language! But I'm not sure why the Alt shorted. I thought as you did at first but... Here the thing. 1. It shorted 15 minutes into the drive not right away. The battery already had 10 minutes of charge on it before the stereo was cranked so at that point the battery should have been drawing much less amps as at first start up. Also the stereo was cranked for 5 minutes before failure you'd think it would have failed right away when cranked. 2. The voltage never dropped below 14.1 every time i looked (according to my 80PRS) 3. My system is every efficient, and it probably wasn't drawing any more than 40 amps (it has a 60 amp fuse in-line.) and the van shouldn't have been pulling any more than 15-20 amps.(window down no lights on) 4 . It's a 130 amp alternator cursing at 2500 RPM(which should be peak output.) 5. It has a factory a 120 amp fuse from the Alternator. So i'm assuming it was pulling 70-80 amps at the very max,,, (unless something else was shorting like a power door or... but then you'd think the voltage would be lower. Thanks on the grammar, really i can't spell chit without speel check.
  9. Roland

    Fried Alternator ???

    I installed a remanufactured alternator and it shorted out within 15 minutes. I've never seen a alternator internally short before and I've replaced at least 20 or 30 over the years so i'm kind of puzzled. To me it seems that the Alternator was poorly built,,, looking for opinions. Things i did wrong 1. The bigger pivot bolt was not tightened down all the way. The threads got boogered and the bolt bottomed before it made a good snug contact, so that ground point could have been better. (but the other smaller 1/4" bolt had good contact, so not sure about the ground being an issue) 2. The other thing is the battery was very week, like 9.5 volts week and i did not let it charge before test driving it. About 5 minutes into the test drive I cranked the stereo up and probably was straining the alternator a good bit. When i first started my son's 2001 honda van with the new alt the voltage was jumping 14.5-14.1 . The old one ever jumped around like that but then again the battery was week so i ignored that. I'm thinking that was kind of a red flag about the new alternator. The other thing that was strange during the test drive when alt failed, the van completely died 100% instantly due to the short. Shouldn't the main 120 amp fuse have blown first? i put a DMM on the battery and discovered the direct short. i guess the battery was too weak to blow the fuse, the wires weren't hot ether, very strange. Just thinking out loud weather this was my fault or a bad alternator.
  10. Roland

    One 12" to fufill my needs

    [quote name='Jeffdachef']so yeah for your needs bud i'd say do some 12s sealed or a 15 sealed. you dont need strong lows with ported. @Roland can tell you about these subs. they sound proper for your needs in 1 cubic feet sealed each. [url]https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_65566_Pioneer-TS-W1200PRO.html[/url][/QUOTE] I really like that sub BUT only in a large box ported. I have two in my sons van both in 2.3 cubes ea, and another in my van 2.5 cubes tuned to 32hz. It models very strange but work well down to 28hz in my van. My son's are running 2 ohms off two channels from a 4 channel NVX JAD800.4, so about 250 watts (IIRC) and they sound great IMO. In 1 foot sealed I don't know if they'd go low enough.
  11. Roland

    Super Budget Build

    Just get a good sound up front don't worry about the back for now. $300 try this CT Sounds Meso 6.5 comp set passive $160 PPI P-600.2 $99 refurb on ebay JBL MS-2 auto tuning DSP (250 bit FIR filter) $40 new on EBay. The MS-2 DSP is a very under rated piece of equipment
  12. Roland

    FSD 2600s

    Yeah, i can't find specs on these amps ether. OP Are they still in production?
  13. Roland

    Wow Orion Nice job.

    It's funny when this thread started the XTR2500.1d was available quit a few places,, but nine pages later, the only one i can find online is from ,,, Online Car Stereo for $440 double yeks
  14. Roland

    JL Audio 1200 Amp

    HD1200.1 manual says "The “Infrasonic Filter” is a 24 dB/octave highpass filter, with a fixed cutoff frequency of 30 Hz. This filter is designed to conserve amplifier power and protect subwoofer systems, without audibly degrading the sub-bass output. With ported enclosures, the use of the “Infrasonic Filter” is highly recommended to protect the speaker(s) from excessive excursion below box tuning. With sealed enclosures, the use of the filter is less necessary, but can still help protect the speaker system from excessive excursion. The “Infrasonic Filter” can be completely defeated by selecting the “Off” position on its switch. This bypasses all signal from flowing through the circuit." Looks like its ether off or on to me.
  15. Roland

    JL Audio 1200 Amp

    Boy, that does appear to be the case, and yeah that really blows. Maybe someone who knows for sure will chime in. You'ld think 20hz would be the lowest. Id' want my current sub ported set to 27hz also. One thing i don't like about my JL XD800.8 is the highest High Pass setting is 500 hz. Which is useless with tweeters. A8n channel amp and with crossovers, but nothing for tweeters,,, it seems they missed a couple of obvious features. EDIT the specs says sub sonic is 15-60hz on the slash...