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About TDot

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  • Birthday 02/05/1981


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  1. Every once in a while a specific rca connection I have slips off due to sub vibrations I guess. The wire is very tight and strong, but once in a while it comes off. It's most likely because it is set up vertical instead of horizontal due to space requirements. Any ideas to make it stay on?
  2. TDot

    Fuse issue

  3. TDot

    Fuse issue

    My amp stopped working the other day. After trouble shooting, the fuse turned out to be the problem...but the fuse isn't blown. The fuse is cutting the voltage by 2-4V. I shake the fuse and there is no rattling. I put it back in and after messing around with it a bit it's working again. It's an agu 80 amp fuse. I'm going to get another one, but I've never seen this before. Is this normal for these heavy agu fuses to go bad over time?
  4. Lmao, I couldn't say it any better, most definitely! Again, hooked on phonics will do both you and your friend justice. Nowhere did I say it wasn't useful. I did say you shouldn't use it to set gains with 0 db, as well clearly in the title UNDER-EXPLAINED, but I see as with many things that flew over your head too. And then I suggested another useful tool to use to make things better. I understand that you may be one of those individuals that like to rub sticks together to make fire...but there are lighters now . As for your friend riding you, I didn't say ears are better. As a matter of fact, I gave a lot of reasons why they aren't. Adding the ears is simply an old rule of thumb. If your ears are being used to enjoy the outcome, you might as well involve it in someway with the process. If I was promoting ears as the main thing, it would be number one in the list. Talk about missing a point. I do understand when you have to read intently it can cause misunderstandings like this, and be complex for some people if you have no exposure to fundamental reading comprehension. Don't worry, I won't hold your blatant lack of understanding against you too. Anyway, I'm bored of this now, take care you two poster children of pre k and continued education. Ps, if you have to ask if a made up word is spelled correctly, you clearly are stupid lmao! Anyone else who's a Tenacious jackass D!ck rider... "You only get half a bar, **** y'all -!--@$."
  5. Every time someone like you responds, I wonder why you even exist. Or if you had any exposure to reading fundamentals or hooked on phonics...in your case needed...in elementary school. Nowhere did I blame the tool. I would reiterate (you might need a dictionary for that) things to you, but I see it would probably go over your head. Da64u and mass car audio, your direction is a good one. I would just prefer an analyzer for safety and piece of mind. I wish when people posted topics on oscilloscopes (not just here) they would simply not refer to 0db tones and explain the negative db tones more. Especially on YouTube since there seems to be referenced a lot. You live and learn.
  6. My subs never sounded as loud as they should have been. My home system with less amps were louder. Following directions here I used an oscilloscope alone. Not liking the results I overcompensated in the wrong ways I burnt up two subs...until today. All over this forum, and YouTube I see people constantly saying the same thing. "Use an oscilloscope to set your gains." And I fell in the trap...even though I knew better. Here's the problem, doing that alone leaves A LOT of Dbs on the table not giving you the maximum output. For most of the people here that may not be a problem because you are running monster amps and multiple subs trying to crack the concrete and give neighbors migraines. But people like me running 500wrms, every volt counts. Here's the problem, when a 40hz...or whatever...test tone is used, its a constant tone, constant rms at a set db. No song has a 0db between 0 and 70/80 hz. So why am I setting my amp sub to that. For the purpose checking if our amp/head unit is putting out a clean signal at what they are rated is a good idea to use a oscilloscope, but not to set at the maximum point. After setting with an oscilloscope, if you have a computer/spectrum analyzer tuned you can see between any song you'll have between 5 and 20 db of headroom at 0-70hz (average seems to be 8db headroom at 40hz, at least with my music). That's A LOT of volume to not take advantage of. Remember, 10db = double perceived volume, so 5db is a nice bump. Of course the further up you go in the frequency the more db will be there after using an oscilloscope, which makes using it a safe route. Ex. a song with 40hz hitting at -5 may have 500hz hitting at +0 and thus clipping, so that does need to be taken into consideration when doing this without an oscilloscope. But most people cut their subs off below 200hz so it shouldn't be a problem. Some will say you should be able to listen for clipping. Here's the problem, its not easy listening for clipping in a sub when you have the high end cut out, and suffering from ear fatigue. On top of that A LOT of songs are simply horribly recorded since the early 90s. It can be hard to discern distortion mastered into the recording and clipping unless the speaker is actually physically being affected by "baffling"(I think that's the term) a bit. And then if you do find a song that is perfectly engineered and mastered, they are generally not mastered as loud as the rest of the songs are, so it will end up being a waste of time. So, my suggestion to people just starting this, don't run with the hype of "just set your gains with an oscilloscope." You will be thoroughly disappointed unless you are running a monster. Using an oscilloscope alone could work at the midrange point, 1khz, because songs are usually zeroed in that area, but not the sub. 1/ use an oscilloscope to CHECK YOUR SIGNAL 2/ use a spectrum analyzer to set your gains according to the average of your music 3/ use your ears Now my sub is perfect, loud, clean, and balanced. Just my opinion and experience...not preaching.
  7. TDot

    The Truth

    First thing is ask is what you are trying to accomplish with the head unit? Basically if you are trying to play mp3 and your stock only does cd then yes switch it. But if that's not the case, I would simply test the capabilities of your stock and if its good keep it. For the most part, unless they used absolute crap parts, they are all going to reproduce audio the same. The thing that comes into play is the noise and amp out of the unit. So just test it first and go from there. If looks are the first things that matter to you, as it does me, I would not touch my stock setup unless its absolutely necessary. Just my 2cents. Good luck.
  8. TDot

    DSO Nano 201 O-scope

    Should it be set based on the vrms, vpp, or vmax?
  9. TDot

    DSO Nano 201 O-scope

    Could the noise be due to grounding/power, or is it just from equipment?
  10. TDot

    Eq burn out

    What about the 35hz thing? Should I be cutting everything below that since that's the bottom of the freq spec? I'm doing a brick wall cut right now.
  11. TDot

    Eq burn out

    You are absolutely right, and I should have known better. I have more than enough head room to remove the eq, and drop the front and rear stage in order to increase the base perception. No offense taken, I already set my gains with a ddm when i did it originally, but I put the eq on after everything was done not thinking. I couldn't hear the distortion after the fact because my trunk is sealed up with MLV, and I never listened to the thing with the trunk open after everything was originally set.
  12. TDot

    Eq burn out

    So, I bought my first sub (Boston Acoustic G310) and it wasn't powerful enough, I just didn't pay attention when I bought it, so I needed to get something else and decided to just push it beyond its limits until it blew. It gave me a good five month run. I got the second sub (idqv3) and tuned properly in a sealed box, however I did raise the bass on the eq 20-45hz+10 and was in love with the sound. However, it turns out I burnt it out. Third set (SA10D4) but in a ported box. It's tuned properly as far as rms, but I want more eq around the freq I had before, but also realize the specs of the port go down to 35hz. I have a slot, and no I don't know what it's tuned to specifically. Can I, should I mess with the eq again in those ranges? By how much? Did the previous one burn out because it was a sealed box?
  13. I would go with components and coax. The alpine pdxv9 is a good 5ch amp when you're ready. I know a lot of people on a budget swear by the kappas, so i'll say yes to those by ways of the grapevine.
  14. TDot

    Quick probably stupid question

    Personally I wouldn't turn it all the way down, especially the way you say you play it. 1/ you'll end up burning your sub up, 2/ forcing the sub to play what's not contained in your audio will get you nowhere. Hell, I wouldn't even have it at 25 jmo. things to consider. 1/ when others play music and they say it hits great, you don't know...sometimes they don't know...how their overall system is actually tuned---there's your difference 2/ one song hits harder than the other a lot of times simply has to do with the two songs being recorded and mastered differently---there's your difference 3/ (assuming you're using mp3...or mp3 vs better format...or your mp3 vs friends cd) lower bitrate cuts off freq, especially bottom end. Even if the track your playing claims a higher bitrate, it might actually be lower and up converted. Also, not all encoders are made the same, so two encoders doing 320kbps, one of them can be crap---there's your difference. 4/ your car itself can be absorbing certain freq---there's your difference. 5/ you could have some freq cancelation going on in your car and simply need to play with placement---there's your difference. You will never have a music collection that all hits the same everywhere unless you remaster each track to how you want. I had to do that with about 30 of my tracks and all is good. Not everything can be fixed by the box, fixing that for one is simply going to throw off another track. Sometimes you should look at the source and/or environment. What you should do is 1/ tune your system to a middle ground for all your tracks and mess with your base knob every once in a while...never if you tune it right 2/ look at your source material/environment. Note to source material, if you're bumping mix CDs, or copy's of them, CDs aren't what they used to be. A lot of them are simply mp3 burnt onto CDs. My couple of cents, im sleepy so some of this might be incoherent, gl.
  15. If you are with geico you can sign up for glass repair for $5 a month. Chip your glass and they'll repair it for free as many times as you need. Once they repair it, it's guaranteed there on, so if it rattles loose again it is "workmanship" .