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About 1995Tercel

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 07/01/1989


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    SW Utah

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  1. 1995Tercel

    Best midrange/vocal component speakers around 150 dollars

    What marerial do I buy to cover the rear of the speakers ill be getting? I already bought that dynamat stuff, enough for the entire inner door. Is there some other foam I use?
  2. 1995Tercel

    Best midrange/vocal component speakers around 150 dollars

    Wow. That makes so much sense. All the cars I've sat in have so much muttled sound, and distortion. They just arent tuned even in the slightest. Jeff, can I text, facebook msg, or email back and forth with you? I have a feeling you have exactly the knowledge I want for my car audio satisfaction. Also, you are only 440 miles away from me, maybe I can make a trip out for a couple days and we can work on my car? I can buy everything you tell me before hand.
  3. 1995Tercel

    Best midrange/vocal component speakers around 150 dollars

    They only move a little bit, maybe 10 degrees total (5 from center) 2 grand including sub box, amp, and sub? Or just 2g for the front setup? Still, I'd rather just optimize a few hundred dollar setup for now, I don't have much left over after my sub setup, since I have to pay someone to build it for me. (no cabinet place in town will cut mdf or cedar for me, and I couldn't find the equations I needed to complete my design.
  4. 1995Tercel

    Best midrange/vocal component speakers around 150 dollars

    Soooooo..... I had a chance to give a few different vehicle setups a listen, and demo multiple component setups today. I listened to multiple in car 2 way component setups, with and without prepped doors, and I wasnt impressed. The components that I felt sounded acceptable were so far out of my price range that Im quite sad. I also found out that my rf 400d amp and low end x9600bhs head unit are also to blame for the lacking sound, and Im not spending the money for quality replacements. I did, however, experience the exact same setups, one with prepped doors, and one with no prep, and was surprised at how much less distortion and more midrange depth there was with the prepped doors. Thus, I have made a decision... I will keep the "acceptable" polk coaxials I have, and just complete the full door prep, and insulate the rear shelf and all four speakers, this will improve what I already purchased, without chasing some rediculous audio goal. I plan on experimenting with covering the tweeters with various materials to tune the siblance out. I cant even get close (sq wise) to my portable, amped in ear monitor setup (total cost 500) without plopping an easy 10 grand in car audio, so Im just going full budget mode, just for some casual enjoyment. Thanks for your responses everyone, and sorry for wasting your time.
  5. Both. I listen to all genres, so i want musicality, accuracy and extension. I am trying to get a tapered tline made, with most of my own design. Ive read this is best for what Im looking for. So Im trying to find a good, musical subwoofer that has the ability to play low, and accurate, and hoping the tline will accentuate those qualities.
  6. Or are they only for getting loud bass in a small package? Vehicle is a 2000 honda insight, small airspace, hatchback. I listen to all genres, very tight, textured, accurate bass is desired, extension to 25hz. Thank you
  7. 1995Tercel

    Best midrange/vocal component speakers around 150 dollars

    Vehicle is 2000 Honda Insight. It has 4 factory speaker locations, all of which are 6.5" ish. I only mentioned the smaller diameter components because I don't know what size speaker is best. I assumed the larger 6.5 size would have less clear vocals, and more pronounced mid and high bass. I am for sure replacing the polks with some components. I can't listen for extended periods of time, they are very painful. I listen to all genres... classical (solos to full symphonies) electronic (25hz bass music, to older dubstep, to lighter bouncy stuff with pop influences), rock, vocals (not sure how to say it, but spoken solo voice, to singing solo voice) so I need speakers that have great instrument separation, good response, and are smooth and accurate everywhere. Emphasis on smooth, and accurate, as I have discerning, but also a very sensitive ears. (I have many resonant frequency plateaus 100's of hz wide, sounds that don't bother people can be literally past the pain threshold for me) Do you agree with Fifthwheel's recommendation of Morel Maximos in the 150 dollar price range? I was thinking 4" component fronts, with the tweeters somewhere that sound good to me, and 6.5 components for the rear locations (fronts are low by my shins, and rears are chest height behind each seat. I have both seats as far as comfortable from the rears, so as not to block as much sound) Or, get 6.5 components (with tweeters) for the front speakers, 2inch (or something small) mid range speakers (I'll cut a hole or something for them) and run all of them off my existing amp, and keep one pair of polks, for the rear speakers ran off head unit power?
  8. I usually blast heat for 15 minutes or more, and see if the speaker grates have some warmth behind them, but i still am nervous. I do notice that the speakers act like there is a 200hz high pass filter on them below 30 degrees f.
  9. 1995Tercel

    Best midrange/vocal component speakers around 150 dollars

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076MM4DJV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BKKZ1AM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AXJ5VNOZL83GP&psc=1 I have these in my cart. Am I understanding correctly that the fast rings have adhesive on all three foam parts? I will try installing the sound deadening around all four speakers, then see how I like it. Although I dont like the idea of wasting 10 dollars per speaker on the fast rings, it doesnt look like its reuseable. I agree on the tweeters, although I haven't heard a ribbon tweeter, and probably never will. I currently have the tweeters in the polks angled away from me, but as I"m sure you know, glass is terrible for reflections, and I just get trapped in this high frequency bath. The Noico seems to be a product that reduces the resonance of the metal in the door, so it doesnt have to cover a whole panel, to save weight and material? Thanks for your input and explanations, I think I'm going in the right direction
  10. 1995Tercel

    Best midrange/vocal component speakers around 150 dollars

    Thsnks i will check those out and also tackle doors. Are those morels tweeters siblant? I am very sensitive.
  11. I finally got my 4 6.5" Polk db651 speakers amped, and I am disappointed. I hoped that amping would help with instrument separation, the midrange clarity, vocals (especially lower female) and overall hollowness of the sound. It only seems to have helped separation, and added a nice "rip" to 2-4k and siblant highs. I don't have enough money for really good speakers, so I figure I'll start with upgrading each 2-way door speakers to 4" components? I'm not concerned with volume, but smooth silky vocals, zero muddiness, and substance (not a thin hollow sound) From what I understand, many components come with a separate tweeter as well, and an external crossover? Thank you for your recommendations
  12. 1995Tercel

    Bass track thread!

    My short list for bass is... Bass Mekanik - Make It Drop 0:48-1:17 and 2:25-2:45 good luck to your subs Truth - come with me (heard Truth in concert, rig was 36!!! dual 18s and 4 26 inch servo drives, and they blew the servos out after his set, freaking changed my life, I was just kneeling in front of a huge pillar in the middle of the venue, constructive interference was making me gag, and I couldn't breath, had to take frequent breaks. LOUD) Truth- madman ft. flowdan Abstrakt sonance- dem vibe (would have uploaded this, but the FLAC file by itself is larger than the 48MB limit Savant- keep it gangsta Savant- no time for p**y (same with this one, I only have it in FLAC) Bass Mekanik - Make It Drop.mp3 5464841_Come_With_Me_Original_Mix.mp3 5464842_Madman_feat__Flowdan_Original_Mix.mp3 keep it gangsta.mp3
  13. Yeah I definitely have to look up what all the abbreviations mean. Almost none of them match the units on the Sundown Spec sheet for the sub. Ah makes sense. I'll try to keep this project simple. By cabinet shop, do you literally mean kitchen cabinet place? Would I supply the wood?
  14. Thank you for your response. I downloaded hornresp, there is a learning curve to say the least. The batting wont help with any of the harmonics below a certain Hz? Even thought my sub box will have a low pass filter (i think thats what it's called) won't it still produce multiples of the 39hz Fs that are problematic? I am currently trying to find a woodworking shop (or audio shop) that will rent me their space on the weekend to work on the box, still no concrete dimentions. I'll try to document my progress once I start. So would your box be a modified horn, because it has the chamber behind the sub? From my elementary understanding, doesnt the parallel wall directly behind the sub load it with air and create many resonances? Beautiful finish on that box, what kind of wood/stain/sealant/wax? What's the box underneath the subs? Mid drivers in an enclosure?
  15. Vehicle : 2000 Honda Insight Location in the vehicle: Terminus output behind driver seat, subwoofer facing rear of the car, under the package shelf Space available (Length x Width x Height): Depends on what design I end up with, I'm going to try and fit the box we come up with. Subwoofer make and model: Sundown Audio SA-8 V3 Subwoofer Size: 8inch Number of Subwoofers: one Amplifier make and model: Sundown Audio SAE-600D Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): circular What type of music do you like?: all Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Goal is maximum extension (minimal Db taper past 20Hz), zero resonance, perfect bass. How loud the system gets is not a concern for me. Complete focus on quality. Tuning Freq (Hz): I'm not sure, but the FS Hz for the subwoofer is 38.29 Volume : Also not sure Questions: So, I'm attempting to make a straight tline box, but I just don't know where to begin. It is difficult to find practical information on this style box, as almost every single box i see, is done incorrectly. I also cant rely on calculations for those boxes, for the same reason. Many boxes I see have a parallel wall opposite the subwoofer (on top of zero sound deadening, with all parallel walls) which is all very poor design. Just so people helping me are on the same page, Tline boxes exist to reduce or eliminate resonant frequencies, should be tapered wall, terminus output port 1/3 to 1/4 the area of the subwoofer radiating surface area, the first half of the transmission line lined with TL (not sure what this acronym stands for) second half filled with BAF Wadding. (If I'm wrong on this, please correct) I will also attempt to fit the box without compromising the design, so no internal turns or baffles, just straight. 1a. I think I need a bass chamber, that is 1/5th the wavelength distance, but I'm not sure what bass chamber means, what wavelength I need to use, or how to calculate volume of the box. Do I use the 38.29Hz of the subwoofer FS value? (Using that value I get a 1/5th wavelength distance of 69.40in at the calculated yearly average temperature of 50 degrees f where I live.) 1b. What is a bass chamber in a Tline box? Is "bass chamber"just referring to the overall structure of the box? 1c. I have read that I need to add a small distance to the overall length of the sub box to accommodate "end correction." How do I calculate this distance? This is another critical aspect, as the proper amount greatly increases low end extension. 1d. How do I cancel out the 3rd fundamental harmonic? the 5th one is done with the proper calculation of 1a. 2. What is the radiating surface area of my sub? I contacted Sundown audio, they just told me its 50.24 square inches, which is simply using a full 8 inch radius. I am very skeptical of this, as I've read this can be significantly different actual area among different subs. I need the exact area, because the port on the opposite end of the box needs to be between 1/3 and1/4th the area. 3a. How do I know what volume to use for the entire box? 3b. How do I calculate this volume? 3c. Are there separate volumes I need to calculate? Or is does this box simply taper from the subwoofer to the port? Thank you for your assistance and expertise.