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Danometal

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About Danometal

  • Rank
    Meh.
  • Birthday 04/04/1980

MORE INFO

  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Audio System Setup
    Factory Saturn comps (until tax time)/Alpine CDA-117/Boston Acoustics GTA-1000m/JBL P1224
  1. Danometal

    Good Subs for Affordable Price?

    My main concerns when designing an audio setup are to decide: 1). how much space can/will I give up for a box/amp rack (1 x 12 inch sub = 2+ cubes plus port displacement, 2 x 12 inch, or 1 x 15 inch sub = 4+ cubes plus port displacement, etc) 2). how much power can/will I run (If budget is low, definitely keep the power below like 1000 watts or so, lest you need an expensive high output alternator. 2 x 500 watt 12s? 1 x 800-1000 watt 12?, 3 x 300 watt 10s?, etc) 3). Pick sub(s) based on the above 2 answers
  2. Danometal

    What brand makes the best amps?

    I have helped build a full on SQ install with PPI Black Ice amps. They are GREAT. I wonder what "internet brands" have fully active crossovers like the PPIs anywhere near the price of the Phantoms, Black Ices, and Power series. BTW, that setup sounds amazing. So much clean power! Pic:
  3. Danometal

    tens, twelves....? real world difference?

    The 12s provide 35% more cone area than the 10s FWIW.
  4. Danometal

    SQL - Two 12s or three?

    Another factor in the decision should be final impedance load, assuming that 3K is a single amp. (3 subs will typically = 1.33 ohm or 2.66 depending)
  5. Double post that neither posted, so I posted a third time with less text. Stupid smart phone.
  6. Not sure what your sub's RMS rating is at, but Rockford's Punch amps are great.
  7. The Rockford Punch amps are great. Go for it if it meets the power rating of your sub. It's fine to overpower subs with clean power. Underpowering causes most people to get too carried away with the gain knob and cause the amp to clip, which is bad for subs.
  8. The Rockford Punch amps are great. Go for it if it meets the power rating of your sub. It's fine to overpower subs with clean power. Underpowering causes most people to get too carried away with the gain knob and can cause the amp to clip, which is bad for subs.
  9. I'm glad to see someone else has accepted the not-so-secret secret of SQ ported boxes; tuning low. Your average installer at an average stereo shop will generally recommend tuning in the mid 30s for lots of output. The bad news with that is you get a harsh peak around 40-60 hz, a low end response that falls off a cliff (some people think 35 hz is low), and the inescapable group delay will be on the low end of the audible specrum vs. well below it. Tuning low solves each of those problems. So, in the end, tuning low nets you a response curve that stands above the rest, and you also get superior output compared to its sealed counterpart. This is woofer dependant though. Some subs only respond properly sealed..
  10. Danometal

    new to forums, need some advice.

    Try this: swap the polarity of the wires going to your sub box. Seriously. Assuming your door speakers aren't high passed at all, and they sound fine with no subs playing, I bet the sub is simply out of phase with the main speakers. Super easy fix if so.
  11. You'll need to model those subs in WinISD or whatever software that can lend you insight on the ideal airspace for those subs (or get someone to do it for you), and then you'll know your airspace requirements, and can thus design the size and shape of the box accordingly. As for your amp, I would strongly suggest getting one with ample power and just setting the gain to where those subs will play safely. This way you can upgrade your subs later if you wish and not have to buy another amp.
  12. Assuming you'll be using .75 inch MDF for a box, you're looking at a maximum of 2.12 cubic feet of available space. I think that, once you factor in woofer displacement, whatever port volume, any bracing, and any space around the box for the port to breath (if applicable to your allotted space), you may be hard pressed to have enough space to make a pair of 10s happy in a ported box. You may wanna consider going sealed with them, or building a killer ported box for just one of the 10s, or getting a single 12 that would be happy in something like 1.75 cubes ported. Just something to chew on.. Edit: I just realized you asked about a sealed box. Yes, you have plenty of room for that.
  13. Oh, and to further add; sealed boxes REQUIRE cabin gain to somewhat balance out the typical early roll-off of the frequency response as the frequency gets lower. In a 4 door sedan like mine, rolling every window down and opening the sun roof removes quite a bit of the cabin gain, and that also introduces a ton of wind noise at the same time. Overcoming all that is a tall order to ask of a sealed sub. Both problems are solved with a good ported box; 1). Doesn't need cabin gain to get low 2). More output period, good to have with extra noise going on.
  14. Sealed = SQ / Ported = SPL is an unfortunate misconception, just like the misconception that larger speakers are "slower" than smaller speakers. My system is straight SQ oriented, and I went ported (tuned very low to 25 hz) for flat frequency response. Garbage pre-fab ported boxes are largely responsible for the anti-SQ reputation, as most of them are way too small and tuned way too high. So, by comparison, yes, any sealed box will mop the floor with a pre-fab ported box for SQ. Most pre-fabs fart like box fans at any kind of reasonably low frequency.
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