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>>SQL<<

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>>SQL<< last won the day on November 28 2011

>>SQL<< had the most liked content!

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About >>SQL<<

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    CarAudio.com Elite
  • Birthday 12/05/1973

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    USA
  1. >>SQL<<

    CD Player cuts out to radio

    Your factory radio is broken /thread
  2. >>SQL<<

    CD Player cuts out to radio

    So you think the OP with his 2 fusion subs and an audiopipe amp is running a SQ system?
  3. >>SQL<<

    CD Player cuts out to radio

    it could be nothing but a problem with the cd player, not sure why you re-grounded the amp (I assume you were talking about the amp) Also why bother with cds anymore, 32 gig USB Drive > cd's My newest head unit doesn't even take CD's and I am happy with that.
  4. bad ground, too small power and/or ground wire, improper ohm load on amp, improper gain settings.
  5. This is not the reason why his amp does not output.
  6. >>SQL<<

    how much you spend

    Wow! I am quite impressive. (talking to the OP, forgot to use quote button)
  7. >>SQL<<

    Problems with TheBatteryMan

    IF* that is true then the OP cooked his AGM battery by overcharging it. That is why, as rebelfromVA has said, the proper (digital) charger is required or you will destroy the battery. In defense of THEBATTERYMAN, the op has very little electrical knowledge (none) at all. That was made clear in the thread about how to wire LED lights into his car.
  8. >>SQL<<

    Budget Sound Deadener(2nd layer)

    People on this forum like to act like they are all made of money and only do things 'the right way' deadening a panel is done by adding mass, period - end of discussion. You can glue fishing weights to it, you can tape pennies on it, you can do 100 different methods. As for a deadening material weight is king, that stuff you linked is fairly light - that means it is not going to be a great deadener. It is designed to stop heat transfer. So your answer is yes it would work some, not that well, and you can find other products that would do a better job.
  9. >>SQL<<

    Problems with TheBatteryMan

    I have ZERO problems with you at all. I was discussing the info you gave as I went right to Deka's website and got the information from there. Do do not need a special charger, you need one that turns off voltage when the battery is charged, which I believe every digital charger out there does. This is a forum and information is obtained by discussions. If I am wrong with what I am saying discuss how. If you are right I will be the first to say so. But making blanket statements saying a 'special' charger is needed is not correct.
  10. >>SQL<<

    Problems with TheBatteryMan

    [quote name='>>SQL How come you do not need a special alternator to run AGM batteries? I have AGM batteries in my waverunner' date=' atv, and motorcycle. I use the same charger that I use for all my other batteries on them, never had a problem. If what you are saying was true then we would need to change the battery charger in the car aka the alternator to work with this new 'magical' battery, right?[/quote'] I am going to quote myself here, it is bad to overcharge an AGM battery so using an old style analog charger is not recommended. However I have a digital charger (which works fine for AGM batteries) and I would assume that the auto parts store do as well. Either way as long as the AGM is not overcharged it will be fine.
  11. >>SQL<<

    Problems with TheBatteryMan

    That makes no sense at all. How come you do not need a special alternator to run AGM batteries? I have AGM batteries in my waverunner, atv, and motorcycle. I use the same charger that I use for all my other batteries on them, never had a problem. If what you are saying was true then we would need to change the battery charger in the car aka the alternator to work with this new 'magical' battery, right?
  12. >>SQL<<

    WTB ~1200wrms @ 2 ohms

    I have been running more than 1,500 watts to my Skar VVX's for over a year now with no problems
  13. Nope because I am solving for 75% efficiency An amp that is 75% efficient converts 75% of the electricity going in into power going out. So that amp would use 100 watts of power to make 75 watts of output. That is why the OP needs 166 amps of power to produce 1,500 watts
  14. Ok - you are right you did not offer the OP a battery. I have read many of your posts, I can tell you are a smart guy. So please explain how his system would work by just adding a second battery. Op is wanting to run 2 amps 1) 400 watt 2) 1,00 watt I will go ahead and say his amps will produce that power at 75% efficiency even though I feel 60% would be a more accurate number. 1,500 watts / 12 volts / .75 = 166.66 amps of current draw. He has an 80 amp alternator Using a/c , lights, ignition system draws apx 40 - 50 amps This leaves 30-40 amps to charge the batteries. lets say OP is on the highway enjoying his system at 75% volume. 166.66 amps (needed current for 100% volume * .75 = 125 amps of current draw The system will draw the 30 - 40 amps of power that the alternator has left and then start pulling 85 - 95 amps from the battery. How long can the OP drive like that? How long will the batteries last being runs down then charged back up? Wouldn't a 200 amp alt solve all the OP's issues and not require a $200+ second battery (plus wire and connectors) Plus unlike a battery, the HO alt would provide 13.5 volts which is better for his electrical? If somehow I am wrong with this simple math (and over 20 years of experience) please explain it to me. This board is so full of repeated miss-knowledge that it is beyond sickening. If your system draws more power than your alternator provides all you are doing is running down your expensive, heavy, and dangerous batteries. You will need to charge them often and that makes no sense to me. Just run an alternator capable of producing the amperage you need for your current needs. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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