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About mikelaubach

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/25/1971


  • Location
    Central CT
  • Audio System Setup
    In the works
  1. mikelaubach

    t-rex audio

    Who is running this event?
  2. Ok, so "some" amount of forward progress. I was liking have a sub and hearing/feeling the bass in the music, but had not ported it yet, and could hear the sub having problems in a 1.75cf sealed enclosure. The achilles tendon is healed up, but I have far from original range of motion and still have a long way to go. No word on physical therapy per se, so we'll see what happens. Already had the 2" port from parts express (called a precision port), but did not have a chance to install it yet. I was going to install it facing the driver's side, but it is all gentle curves, and I don't want it to look bad. So Monday I pulled the whole thing out. What a pain in the arse. All mounting bolts for the box are hidden behind trim and from the inside. The port went into the front and fires directly at passenger-side rear wheel arch. I guess this gives some sort of port loading, though honestly, I'm not sure how that works, if it works, if it's a good thing, etc. LOL The amount of bass is significantly higher in SPL, though without a meter, I have no idea what that means. The rear view mirror is cool to watch though. With the music on, you cannot really hear the bass right outside the truck, but step in the house and you can hear it. It's weird. We were out and about in the afternoon, and someone pulled up next to us with her windows down, and she just looked over and shook her head. The problem that I had is the port length. The formula that came with the tube, as well as WinISD has me at a port length of 3" for 34hz. But the design of the tube allows for a min port length of 4"!!!!!!!!! This drops me to a port tune of 30-31hz, and the graph in WinISD shows a 1/2db loss at 35hz, where it peaks. Compare this to the graph for a port tune of 34hz, and the peak comes in at 38hz, and 2db higher at that frequency. So I know I am still not putting out the most that this speaker can do in this box. But is it worth it to try to find a way to get there? Now I just need to get back on the wiring mess and the amplifier mounting rack.
  3. mikelaubach

    Will the midrange be drowned out?

    I put these in the doors of our stock Audi A4, replacing the stock paper (crap) ones that it came with. I did one and then compared right away. The stock one is more efficient (it gets louder at any given volume level). BUT this is MUCH better sounding. Once I replaced the other side, it sounded much better. The speaker allows me to turn the volume up all the way on the radio and does not distort. Of course, when I came back from my short ride and pulled into the garage, the wife thought Eminem was going to walk through the door. LOL
  4. So, what is the status Suteman? Amp work with the new fuse?
  5. mikelaubach

    ANYONE in Connecticut?

    The June show got canceled. boooooo
  6. Wow, we be all over the map here! LOL You have the amplifier in the car, and there are three power lines going in - one for hot (red I hope), one for ground (black I hope), and one fore remote (blue I hope). I like to follow convention if its not obvious. My understanding of the above is that with the amplifier installed, you see 2V between the red and black wire? If that is the case, as already stated, something is bad in Denmark. Or Piscataway as the case may be. That should read battery voltage. If it does not, it is because something is on fire (I'd think that oyu'd report that), or because the main fuse is bad, and you are reading back-fed voltage (which means something else is bad). What they want you to do is to slide the red wire out (do NOT let it touch anything), and then read the voltage from the end of the now-exposed red wire and the black wire in the amp. Is it still 2V, or do we have 12V now? Next, test using a known good ground (body panel somewhere with a clean exposed bolt. Put the black lead from the multimeter on the bolt, and the red lead on the end of the red wire. Still 2V? Or maybe now 12V? Or maybe millivolts? If 12V, you have a bad ground. If millivolts, you have a bad fuse in line with the main power lead (yes, you checked them, that's greaaat). ;-) Report back.
  7. mikelaubach

    Fusing question

    In any direction. IE - that 0ga run to the rear battery should have a fuse before it gets to the rear battery. If not, then if something happens to the cable under the hood (after the front fuse), then you have a 0ga line being fed by the rear battery towards the front. Fire. Fire! Fire!! Yuck. So two batteries = three fuses! front battery - fuse - 0ga run - fuse - rear battery - fuse - amplifier(s)
  8. mikelaubach

    got a really good WTF question on my alpine 9813

    So do the two radios have the same pin-outs? I do NOT mean the same SHAPED plug, but are the pins on the two radios the same - pin 3 is power on them both, pin 4 is ground on them both, etc. Just because the plug shape is the same, does not mean the pin use is the same. I found that there are a few Alpine connectors, but was unable to successfully get a copy of the manual for either unit.
  9. mikelaubach

    got a really good WTF question on my alpine 9813

    Talk to sleazebagger, you guys have the same sort of crazy-arsed electric crap going on. LMAO
  10. mikelaubach

    I tried setting my amp with dmm and nothing!

    Are the speakers attached or not? The fact that you are getting anything at all says that the majority of the amp's systems are working. Won't some amps not behave properly without a load? Install the speakers and wire and check again AFTER turning the amp gain all the way back down...
  11. Everything said above is a good starting point. While that is not untrue, there are plenty of threads on this site for setting gains using a DMM. While is not as perfect or easy as clamping to get the power output at a specific frequency, it is close enough to properly set the gains.
  12. mikelaubach

    Alternator Mystery 10.00 Pay pal

    Wow, about time! Look like it puts out alot of power too, so that's great. No real "tested" advice on the optimal voltage, but 14.5 should be more than plenty high. Could like drop to 14 flat even.
  13. Kiss that 2 ohm "load" goodbye though! Lulz
  14. mikelaubach

    ipod connection

    It's not "working" per se. You are "lucky?" and it is back-feeding, most likely due to a poor internal design. I hope you didn't spend too much - that should be $5 at the most.
  15. mikelaubach

    ipod connection

    Those are not inputs, they are RCA outputs. You cannot use you iPod on this deck without an auxillary part. According to my research, in order to use you iPod, you will need: * IP-Bus System Control o XM Satellite Radio o MCD Control o TV Tuner Control o Auxiliary Input (CD-RB10 or CD-RB20 required) o 2 External Unit Control Good luck finding that. Might be cheaper to buy a new radio than to buy the adapter.