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sjv13

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About sjv13

  • Rank
    StayStrange
  • Birthday 04/06/1995

MORE INFO

  • About me
    Im 19. I drive a 2000 Volvo v70 wagon.
  • Name
    Spencer
  • Location
    Lansing, MI
  • Occupation
    College student
  • Interests
    I ride BMX and race dirt bikes
  • Audio System Setup
    Alpine mono amp, memphis 4 channel amp, Pioneer HU, Focal comps, Type-R Sub 12"
  1. Are there any head units with nice glass touch screens? We've been spoiled with nice touch screens on our phones nowadays, but it seems head units are stuck 10 years in the past with their poor touch screens. The only one I know of is the Pioneer AppRadio 4 (SPH-DA120). Perhaps there is something available from another company other than the big names (Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony, etc.) that has a quality interface? In addition to that question... I also am wondering if there is any better way than AptX to play Spotify Premium 320kbps from my Galaxy S7. I had a nice Pioneer MVH-p8200bt that I used when I had an iPhone through USB and everything was great. Then when I got this Android I was unable to play anything through USB and it didn't stream BT. I did some research and ended up going with a Kenwood KMM-BT515HD because Kenwood uses the AptX codec for BT. The only problem is that the quality of these Kenwood 1DINs *****. I'd much rather have an Alpine or Pioneer, but they don't support AptX. Next thought is moving to a 2DIN, however I hate the cheap touch screens on them. So yeah, kind of a long post, but that's my dilemma. TL;DR -- Looking for the following in a head unit: - Play Spotify through USB and/or has AptX BT capabilities - 4v, 6 preouts - Prefer 1DIN, but am also very interested in 2DIN with a nice/glass touchscreen
  2. Doing big 3 soon... Going with knu cable. Am I better of going with 4ga OFC or 1/0ga CCA? The 1/0ga OFC is just too rich for my blood and is not worth it considering the modest system I have.
  3. The doors in my Volvo are pretty similar to these doors, in the sense that there is no way to access the inside of the outer metal panel (I hope that makes sense) through holes in the inner metal panel. My doors actually have no holes in the them to even be able to see the outer metal panel. Even behind my woofers, there is a piece of metal that sits between the two metal panels which leaves just enough space for the speaker's magnet. For this reason, there is virtually no airspace for my woofers, and therefore my mid bass suffers. I have some pics on my profile of my doors. I'm really at a loss for any ideas that can help me here. Even making speaker brackets wouldn't help, because there would still not be any airspace. Do you have any ideas of how I can improve my mid bass response? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. sjv13

    Alpine MRV-F300 or Memphis 16-PRX4.50

    Just got everything installed and set the gains. I'm running each tweeter and woofer on it's own channel. And the verdict is that the Memphis sounds way better than my old Polk. There is no audible hiss at low volumes like there was with the Polk PA660, and everything just sounds more open, effortless, and most of all CLEANER! Because of the experience with the Polk which was a class AB, I was leaning towards a class D (the alpine) but I am really glad I went with the Memphis. I would probably not pay full MSRP ($360), but since I got it for $212 (including tax) I am very happy with it! EDIT: Also, thought I'd add that it does indeed get plenty loud. It gets louder than my 75x4 Polk and sounds better doing it
  5. sjv13

    Alpine MRV-F300 or Memphis 16-PRX4.50

    Just picked up the Memphis. Decided to go with it because I got a good deal on it ($360 down to $200 out the door). I will post a review after I get it hooked up on Saturday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I'm looking at both of these amps. They are both 4x50 and both are for sale for $200. My Polk PA660 went bad on me, so I'm looking to replace it with one of these. Can anyone tell me a yay or nay for either one? Thanks for a quick reply! I'm on a trip right now and I'll be passing the car audio store in an hour!
  7. Lmao... noticed this too
  8. So Im'm going to dive in and replace my OEM plastic speaker bracket and closed cell foam contraption with an MDF baffle pretty soon. I just have a couple questions. Is it important for door speakers to have some air space behind them? Right now there is really only room for the magnet of the woofer and I feel like I am lacking some midbass from my door speakers because of this perhaps. Also, how should I actually attach the baffle to the metal door? Sheet metal screws? And lastly, I need a little help with the design. My doors are shaped in such a way that the OEM plastic speaker bracket is about 1/4 of an inch away from the door at the top and about 1.5-2 inches away at the bottom (I have pictures on my profile of this) and this makes my speaker sit straight. Does this mean I'll have to put layers of MDF together to get it to be 1/2" thick at the top and 2" thick at the bottom? Hope this is clear enough to understand. Thanks for any input!
  9. sjv13

    New to car audio, looking for recommendations.

    @BlackHawk41042; I'd take a look at what @mylows10; can get you as far as the sub and an amp. Then talk to @double07; as far as getting a custom built enclosure. They really aren't as expensive to get built and shipped to you as you might think.
  10. Ahh, I see what you're saying. So I'll have that shop cut out the metal (leaving the top in) and then I'll probably just have them install some mdf some baffles in there for cheap too. It will allow some flexibility in speaker choice that way, as well as provide an air tight seal. Should I have them put a couple sq ft of dynamat right behind the woofers to try to cancel some of that rear wave?
  11. [quote name='T3mpest']Once you put the doorskin, that entire space is still acting as an enclosure. However, it's probably not helping the way it is now, does your speaker have a vented pole piece on the bottom? If so then yes, you def need a inch or two of space behind it, if it's a closed basket, not as much. Your closed cell foam baffle is likely not a great seal though. I'd try and build some wooden ones, if you can't do it yourself, your shop said they would. Next thing to PLEASE realize, is 50hz is not midbass. Your moms speakers may put out more "bass" becuase they probably aren't crossed over. That is NOT midbass and never will be. Snares can be midbass, but there is treble in that region too. Good midbass is not subbass from your mids. If you want that, you'll basically always be disappointed.[/QUOTE] What do you mean when you say, "Once you put the doorskin, that entire space is still acting as an enclosure"? Also, I'm not trying to get subbass from my door speakers. I'm just saying that even when I run them with a HPF at 50hz, they don't put out much of any midbass still (or subbass, but I don't really expect that to happen anyways). For some reason it's just hard for me to grasp that stock speakers running off of HU power can put out a fuller freq. range than aftermarket speakers on an amp when both are run full range (or pretty close to full range, at a 50hz hpf in my case). Here is a good picture of the back of my speakers: [URL="http://www.top-elektronik.at/images/product_images/original_images/actindo_focal_integration_is165.jpg"]http://www.top-elektronik.at/images/product_images/original_images/actindo_focal_integration_is165.jpg[/URL] I know the foam isn't a very good baffle, but it is a decent seal (of course not as good as an mdf baffle, but still pretty decent). @bradl79; yes, I have a sub. Alpine type r 12 on 500w. I find that I get more of the midbass kick I'm looking for when I let the sub play a little higher, with everything xover'd at 100hz. But that point, localization starts to occur.
  12. I feel like my biggest issue is airspace though. Am I wrong?
  13. sjv13

    noon question and subwoofer selection

    I feel like you can't really go wrong with any of those. Just pick one with a decent price. You'll probably get the most votes for the DD and Fi and the least for the RE.
  14. So I have a feeling my doors are severely limiting the midbass output from my front door woofers. Even with the HPF set to 50hz, I have very little midbass. My mom's stock system (no factory amp or anything) in her Toyota Avalon puts out way more bass than I can with a set of $300 6.5" Focals and a Polk PA660 4 channel (75x4). I've included some pictures of my doors, and I'm pretty sure the problem is that since there is such a small amount of airspace that the woofer is sitting in, it essentially gives it the smallest enclosure known to man and makes it roll of at a pretty high frequency. For example, snare drums sound incredible, but anything below that frequency is very subtle. I have my components and sub xover'd at 80hz. I also went to the somewhat local car audio/custom shop, and they said they could cut out the layer of metal right behind the speaker's magnet and install a wooden baffle (far superior to my closed cell foam baffle, lol) to try to give the speaker a bit larger of an enclosure and use the rest of the door's airspace. They said they'd do both front doors for $130. So I'm here to ask you guys, do you think this will solve my midbass problem? Or is the guy just saying that it will help because he wants to make a quick buck? I don't really feel comfortable cutting my doors myself. You might notice the layer of fluffy stuff, but it's just a really thin layer and the metal piece is right underneath it. Photo gallery: Door speakers - Imgur
  15. sjv13

    Meet up in mid-Michigan?

    That sounds pretty cool. I hope I'll be able to make it.
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