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Kangaroux

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Kangaroux last won the day on November 26 2011

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About Kangaroux

  • Rank
    I put on
  • Birthday 12/22/1994

MORE INFO

  • Name
    Jesse
  • Location
    Maine
  • Interests
    Web design
  1. Friend needs a box for 2 18's, single layer with a double baffle and some bracing will be enough. PM me with a quote on pricing
  2. Kangaroux

    wiring

    If he needs a wiring kit he'll need the other stuff anyways so no real reason to go for welding wire. The amount you'll save is so minimal too.
  3. Kangaroux

    wiring

    Since it's not super clear on the website, this is the OFC kit: Complete 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit - Merchandise Their KCA line isn't pure copper. For an extra $10 you save yourself any potential trouble later on down the road.
  4. Kangaroux

    wiring

    You would probably be OK with the 8 gauge kit. If you're hooking up to 2 amps you will need a distribution block to split up the power wire, this will work: Bassik 4 - 8 Gauge Power/Ground Distribution Block - Merchandise
  5. Kangaroux

    wiring

    Knukonceptz Amp Installation Kits Stick to the OFC (100% copper) wire
  6. Kangaroux

    The Amp Lab

    I can attest to Troy's work over at Amp Lab as well. He knows his shit and is an honest guy. I've been banging on the saz-3k everyday that he sold me with absolutely no problems.
  7. Kangaroux

    please help!! keep frying subs!

    You're still a noob, don't worry
  8. Kangaroux

    Cca

    As someone who used CCA for years, just use OFC. As others have mentioned weldingsupply.com sells 2/0 dirt cheap. It has lower resistance and doesn't heat up anywhere near as much, you won't need to buy more wire if you decide to scale up your system, and if you ever want to sell it a lot more people will want to buy OFC.
  9. Kangaroux

    please help!! keep frying subs!

    To better understand why your subs are blowing you need to know about what your gain knob is doing and how clipping hurts your equipment. First, this is what a good sound wave looks like: And this is what a clipped sound wave looks like: Clipping is what is likely killing your subs. Not getting into too much detail, basically your sub makes sound by moving the cone based on the sound wave. When you're sending your sub hundreds of watts you can imagine the voice coil will heat up. The sub cools itself as it plays by moving air around the voice coil. But in a clipped wave, the sub is being sent a lot of power but is just sitting still. So how do we prevent this? Start by eliminating anything that could be boosting your music. An EQ on your phone or headunit, bass boost gain on your amp, anything like that. Next, you need to tune your amp using the proper settings. Since the headunit is a source for potential clipping you need to check that as well. Most cheap headunits will begin to clip their output before you reach max volume. If your headunit goes up to 35, try using it at 28 or 30. If it goes up to 60+, try it at 50 or 55. Once clipping is introduced into the signal, there's no way to get rid of it. It's difficult setting your amp gain properly without the right equipment. But for you I would say don't go much over 1/2 of your gain. Gain is not a volume knob, it's a way of matching the amp to what your headunit is putting out for a signal. You can always have the gain a little too low and be on the safe side. If you set the gain too high, your amp will clip the sound wave really, really badly. Set your low pass filter somewhere around 60-80hz and set your subsonic to 30hz. Those should be relatively safe starting points. Finally, if you keep feeling a temptation to turn your amp gain up just a little bit, or turn the volume on your headunit up a few more clicks, you should consider stepping up your system a bit. It's better to overbuild and have headroom than to push your system beyond its limits.
  10. Kangaroux

    Review my 4th order build

    It will be a bit peaky but the comps aren't really ideal 4th order subs so I wouldn't worry about it. Either make it so you can take that whole front face off, or just pull out the ports to adjust them. Playing around with port lengths and sizes helps a lot. Your best bet is to do some trial and error if you don't have the equipment to get the design 100% right the first time.
  11. Kangaroux

    Vertical or Horizontal?

    Larger vehicles usually work best if you mount the subs on the top with the port on the front off to one side. Whether you position the subs so they're pushed up next to each other in a line or stagger them so they're at an angle is up to you, it won't change the sound.
  12. Kangaroux

    Vertical or Horizontal?

    What vehicle?
  13. Kangaroux

    Music sounds Flat, FLAT, no mid bass at all

    Have you deadened and done the works on your doors?
  14. Kangaroux

    What would I need to run this?

    What vehicle do you have? You'll likely just be ok with getting a large second battery for the back if you're only planning on doing music.
  15. Deadening the van is the hardest part. The sides are pretty sturdy and even the doors are quiet but the roof and rear hatch are a *****. I think I mentioned it somewhere but the roof is split up into sections by those supporting cross bars. To brace the roof, you want to cut some strips of ply and space them out a bit and orient them so they are pointing to the front/back of the vehicle and attach them with some PL 375 or something strong. You can just press them against the roof really well and they will stay on their own to dry. Give the strips a couple days to fully cure, then cut out a 3/4" panel to fit over them and just screw right into the strips (make sure to use some 1 1/4" screws so you don't go through your roof). This works ridiculously well, and it will work even better the more strips you secure to the roof because that's more points where it will get braced. If you go this route, deadener isn't even necessary because it stiffens up the roof so much. I did that thing with the hatch where I put in some blocks and secured it but I don't think it helped; they got ripped apart pretty quickly. Maybe you did it differently. I think the best way to do it honestly would just be to protect the locking mechanism and then spray foam the whole thing with like 5 cans lol. It's too much of a PITA to try and brace that frame
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