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About Wattser93

  • Rank
    Senior VIP Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1971


  • Location
    Sparks, NV
  1. Thanks for it. Louder is always better. What tool do you for adding the bass? Audacity has bass boost built in but bass boost usually means clipping.
  2. I just checked it, -2.7db at 36Hz, with -3db from about 34Hz-37Hz using the Blackman-Harris, so -3db sounds right then. I must have gotten my copy of it from you then.
  3. I just double checked it and that's what my copy of the songs registers at in audacity. I obtained the song from a link in a thread somewhere around here, so maybe my version is a bit boosted. 36Hz isn't too low, but the OP was asking for up to 35Hz, and I don't see 36Hz as being too far away from his criteria... It's lower than most rap out there.
  4. Juice Box - Gorilla Zoe It's been mentioned plenty of times before in the bass track thread, it peaks at 36Hz -2db according to Audacity. (not quite low 30Hz range, but it's decently low)
  5. Lol. My system wouldn't impress anybody from loudness, it's about the Ess Que (going to do an IDMAX hopefully to replace the Type-R ). It's still "very loud" to anybody that hasn't heard a proper system, and will embarrass a BestBuy prefab and Kicker square combo, but is nothing huge. It's loud enough for me though. OP, you're probably better off doing something in the cab, a pair of GOOD 12s in the cab will be much louder than 3 cheap 15s in the bed. Not to mention stealing that box from the bed would be pretty easy, it would be an easy smash and grab for any thief, something you don't want to be a victim of.
  6. You're doing a blow through? That takes commitment and you'll permanently devalue the truck. Have you thought about walling it instead?
  7. Wattser93

    doubling or tripling amp power?

    What sub?
  8. It's notorious for being inaccurate though. I'd try to use WinISD to confirm results before building one to the specs you get from the RE calc.
  9. Wattser93

    Inexpensive but Underrated Subwoofer Amplifers

    That's probably clipping. If your Alpine is anything like my Kenwood, the sub level is only an attenuation knob. I have to set my sub level to +15db to get full pre-out voltage. Turn off all of the bass boost features, turn the sub level to max, turn down the gain all of the way, and reset the gains from there. I had a similar issue when I first got a sub in my last car, and after turning the sub level up and reseting gains, everything was much better.
  10. Wattser93


    His amp is 2Ω stable in bridged mode, it's a Rockford Power series, they're also heavily underrated. The models rated at 25x4 have benched at over 75x4, you really need an O-scope to set the gains properly, it'll do more than rated, how much more? I don't know, but quite a bit. Using a DMM to set the gains to rated power is a waste of a great amp. I want somebody to produce an amp that has lockable end caps, so we can set gains, and then lock the end caps on so that they can't mess with any settings. I can't tell if this is a troll thread or not, I'm going to assume it isn't. I recommend new subs that can take the power of that amp without getting fried (they probably sounded like azz anyways), and using an O-scope to set the gains. Distortion is tough to hear in subs, so turning up the gains until you hear distortion already has the gains well into the clipping range (my experiences).
  11. +1 I've put more sweat equity into my system than money. It doesn't take a huge budget get a good sounding system. Too many people think buying a $1000 set of comps and $800 amps will be the ticket to SQ. The reality is that 90% install and 10% equipment will sound 100% better than 10% install and 90% equipment. I'm not happy with my system yet. I still have to seal and deaden my doors. I have to quit though after that before I spend too much money. I'm a perfectionist and can easily spend an entire weekend reading threads over on DIYMA, trying to find ways to squeeze every last bit of potential out of my equipment.
  12. Wattser93

    what ohm am i running

    You can run it at 0.5Ω, but if you your electrical has troubles keeping up I wouldn't expect it to last long. I would run at 2Ω to be safe. If you had either 2 D4 subs or 2 D1 subs you could run it at 1Ω.
  13. +1. I spent less than $1K on my system and it's been one of the best purchases made. I spend an hour a day in my car, so being able to enjoy the music is a big deal to me. Of all the things we spend money on in life, enjoying music for the hour a day I can is far better than suffering with a bad stock system.
  14. Wattser93

    which alt...

    I work for a business that rebuilds alternators for city busses, big 400A+ oil cooled alternators, we also build HO alternators for ordinary vehicles (no, we don't take orders, don't even ask). Our rebuilders swear by square wire. We've done bench tests and compared the round to square wire, I'll have to talk to them and dig up the bench tests. We've gotten 30-40% improvements by using difference case materials and square wire if I remember right, with no other changes to the alternator.
  15. You're the same guy that was bragging about your ported prefab being an awesome box and having the "baddest system on the block". Even if he did it all wrong you wouldn't know, it's the blind leading the blind... Take it to a reputable shop and have them diagnose it. It sounds like your amp is going into protect, you need the gains set by somebody who knows what they're doing. :fyi: