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hispls

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hispls last won the day on August 12

hispls had the most liked content!

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About hispls

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    CarAudio.com Veteran
  • Birthday 08/28/1973

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  • Location
    Cape Cod, Massachusetts
  • Occupation
    Maple Sugar farming (no kidding)
  • Interests
    ??? Profit!

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  1. hispls

    boland audio

    The point being do these "benefits" translate into any real-world performance or audible difference? If not you're just paying for bragging rights. Those types are bigger band-wagoners than the people around here. And for some reason nobody has claimed Richard Clarke's 10 grand.
  2. hispls

    boland audio

    2 year old article and who is using those new FETs? Legit breakthrough or just more SQ snake oil?
  3. hispls

    Rattle from subwoofer

    So "gain" setting aside, (because it is meaningless). Woofers have thermal and mechanical limits. It sounds like yours has some mechanical failure. Now you may be able to repair it or it may be a legitimate manufacturer defect, but if you're running double rated power to them it'll be hard to chalk it up to manufacturer defect IMO.
  4. hispls

    boland audio

    I think this came up last year at some point. Yeah, amps look great, will probably perform great and last for decades, and I'm sure he's a solid engineer, but why on Earth build a class A/B amp for car audio in this day and age? I mean if you're going to go gimmicky to pander to snobophiles just throw a couple tubes in the pre-amp section, otherwise, modern class D technology is way past the point where there's any reason to avoid it.
  5. hispls

    Rattle from subwoofer

    So let me get this straight, you're running 1000W to two 300W subs and you're wondering why one seems broken?
  6. That's a nice big box. Do you own those CV 12s already? Did anybody confirm TS parameters? I've got a lot more experience building boxes for higher end subs. Strong motor force and stiff suspension types all do well in "DD box" (look at DD's website for plans and specs). Haven't done anything else in ages and haven't done any entry level tier stuff since the days when sealed box was the conventional wisdom.
  7. That's not how bad amps work. Poorly built/designed amps don't need to be abused or ran hard to fail catastrophically. The Hifonics XXV Sampson was famous for that with about 3 out of 10 blowing up as soon as you power them up.
  8. hispls

    I'm so happy!!!

    That's kind of what it costs if you actually do R&D and want any sort of modern design. Sundown 1100.5 is over 400$ and that's cookie cutter S&I fare. Personally if I were doing a "budget" RF build I'd be looking for used older amps and subs.
  9. So many pictures. Thanks so much for sharing. Great work as always. I rented the Versa this winter for a trip from an airport and it looked like a great car for an audio build.
  10. Their products are all around flea market garbage, the fact that they're catching on fire is just the icing on the cake. The difference with Samsung is that they had a hundred really great products before they had one that was a fire hazard and had a complete recall of every device that could be a problem and completely discontinued that line. Suit yourself though. Pay now or pay later.
  11. I'd guess around 140. Box on top of the back seats is sub-optimum as is the low tuning and pickups generally meter weak if you don't have the driver's side door or window open.
  12. hispls

    Twisted Sounds Amps?

    I asked the same thing, and a few minutes Google searching his name turned up the newspaper stories of the guy getting popped for selling meth. This is one of the reasons that some people pay a bit more money for established brands.
  13. Yeah, I'm sure their quality has come up leaps and bounds..... it never ceases to amaze me the brand loyalty these companies can get by selling products that could actually kill or maim people and burn your car to the ground if they have a low enough dollar per watt ratio.
  14. Wow, looks like you got a big job ahead of you rebuilding that car. First and foremost you're in a perfect place to do some serious deadening. There are some great options for products these days and you could really have a Cadillac quiet ride if you wanted. Definitely don't put any mids and highs behind you. It is still an acoustic nightmare. Kicks or a-pillars for mids and highs, midbass can go into the doors just fine.... really mids in the doors can be OK, but if you can keep them on-axis (pointed right at where the dome light would be) you'll generally have better results. Unless you really love nostalgia I'd avoid old school amps. Anything worth owning is OLD. And I mean old to the point where electrolytic capacitors are due to fail. So if you do buy an old school amp, make sure it's something that's really worth the cost of being professionally restored. Even then modern class D technology is very nice. You can get big power in a small footprint that runs nice and cool that you can stash in some out of the way places and not run into overheating troubles. So if you can get some really rare old school amp to put it on display, that would be pretty cool, otherwise if you just want good sound from something hidden you should definitely lean towards modern options.
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