Jump to content

hispls

Members
  • Content count

    10,384
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7
  • Feedback

    100%

hispls last won the day on August 12

hispls had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3,345 Excellent

About hispls

  • Rank
    CarAudio.com Veteran
  • Birthday 08/28/1973

MORE INFO

  • Location
    Cape Cod, Massachusetts
  • Occupation
    Maple Sugar farming (no kidding)
  • Interests
    ??? Profit!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. hispls

    boland audio

    2 year old article and who is using those new FETs? Legit breakthrough or just more SQ snake oil?
  2. hispls

    Rattle from subwoofer

    So "gain" setting aside, (because it is meaningless). Woofers have thermal and mechanical limits. It sounds like yours has some mechanical failure. Now you may be able to repair it or it may be a legitimate manufacturer defect, but if you're running double rated power to them it'll be hard to chalk it up to manufacturer defect IMO.
  3. hispls

    boland audio

    I think this came up last year at some point. Yeah, amps look great, will probably perform great and last for decades, and I'm sure he's a solid engineer, but why on Earth build a class A/B amp for car audio in this day and age? I mean if you're going to go gimmicky to pander to snobophiles just throw a couple tubes in the pre-amp section, otherwise, modern class D technology is way past the point where there's any reason to avoid it.
  4. hispls

    Rattle from subwoofer

    So let me get this straight, you're running 1000W to two 300W subs and you're wondering why one seems broken?
  5. That's a nice big box. Do you own those CV 12s already? Did anybody confirm TS parameters? I've got a lot more experience building boxes for higher end subs. Strong motor force and stiff suspension types all do well in "DD box" (look at DD's website for plans and specs). Haven't done anything else in ages and haven't done any entry level tier stuff since the days when sealed box was the conventional wisdom.
  6. That's not how bad amps work. Poorly built/designed amps don't need to be abused or ran hard to fail catastrophically. The Hifonics XXV Sampson was famous for that with about 3 out of 10 blowing up as soon as you power them up.
  7. hispls

    I'm so happy!!!

    That's kind of what it costs if you actually do R&D and want any sort of modern design. Sundown 1100.5 is over 400$ and that's cookie cutter S&I fare. Personally if I were doing a "budget" RF build I'd be looking for used older amps and subs.
  8. So many pictures. Thanks so much for sharing. Great work as always. I rented the Versa this winter for a trip from an airport and it looked like a great car for an audio build.
  9. Their products are all around flea market garbage, the fact that they're catching on fire is just the icing on the cake. The difference with Samsung is that they had a hundred really great products before they had one that was a fire hazard and had a complete recall of every device that could be a problem and completely discontinued that line. Suit yourself though. Pay now or pay later.
  10. I'd guess around 140. Box on top of the back seats is sub-optimum as is the low tuning and pickups generally meter weak if you don't have the driver's side door or window open.
  11. hispls

    Twisted Sounds Amps?

    I asked the same thing, and a few minutes Google searching his name turned up the newspaper stories of the guy getting popped for selling meth. This is one of the reasons that some people pay a bit more money for established brands.
  12. Yeah, I'm sure their quality has come up leaps and bounds..... it never ceases to amaze me the brand loyalty these companies can get by selling products that could actually kill or maim people and burn your car to the ground if they have a low enough dollar per watt ratio.
  13. Wow, looks like you got a big job ahead of you rebuilding that car. First and foremost you're in a perfect place to do some serious deadening. There are some great options for products these days and you could really have a Cadillac quiet ride if you wanted. Definitely don't put any mids and highs behind you. It is still an acoustic nightmare. Kicks or a-pillars for mids and highs, midbass can go into the doors just fine.... really mids in the doors can be OK, but if you can keep them on-axis (pointed right at where the dome light would be) you'll generally have better results. Unless you really love nostalgia I'd avoid old school amps. Anything worth owning is OLD. And I mean old to the point where electrolytic capacitors are due to fail. So if you do buy an old school amp, make sure it's something that's really worth the cost of being professionally restored. Even then modern class D technology is very nice. You can get big power in a small footprint that runs nice and cool that you can stash in some out of the way places and not run into overheating troubles. So if you can get some really rare old school amp to put it on display, that would be pretty cool, otherwise if you just want good sound from something hidden you should definitely lean towards modern options.
  14. hispls

    JL Audio W7

    Those JL amps do gain a little if you wire down the impedance but it's not going to be audible and definitely harder on the amp.
  15. hispls

    Help with 3-way setup in a roadster

    Really a good 3 way system would use 6.5" woofer, 3" or 4" midrange, and tweeter. I use 6.5" midrange just because that's what the kicks fit, I've used 4" mid and also 4X8" planar mid before and been very happy. You definitely won't be disappointed with that Pioneer head unit. They're top quality and very powerful as far as processing power. As to putting midbass behind you, not so hot. The big issue is what our ears are designed for. 80hz and down is very non directional and not really getting into things that will want to be localized in front of you (the human voice in particular). You can't make something behind you sound like it's coming from in front of you period and the higher the frequency the more directional it will be. Consider also the distance between each speaker. TO find the wavelength divide the speed of sound by the frequency..... For example, at 80hz you divide 1125 by 80 for 14 foot wavelength. The half wave is really where you get into trouble, so pretty much if your subwoofer is <7 feet from the mids you're not in big trouble as far as cancellation at crossover points. Obviously closer is still better, but you get the point. Now try the same thing at 400hz which may be more in the neighborhood where your midbass is crossing into the midrange and you have 2.8 feet. This tells us that ideally you'll want your midbass and midrange less than 16" apart to avoid possible cancellation. Tweeters should be within an inch or two of the midrange for best results and that's why you'll notice tweeter is often put further from the listener than the mid (in kicks or A-pillar pods) so that the voice coils (magnets) are equal distant between all speakers and your ears. Now the midbass can be a bit away from the mid and tweet and work out fine but these are things that you'll have to fight by trying to run things out of phase or otherwise brute force later, but possibly not with as good results as just keeping everything in one place coming out the gate. IMO if the midbass behind you is the only option I'd rather go with a stout set 2 way components that can live up front. You might could get away with 5 1/4" up front with what you're doing I suspect you could run the sub up to 100 or 120hz without too much issue pulling the sound behind you. By Harmon, I meant Harmon International Group, JBL/Crown/Infinity products. Stock sound system is stock sound system. They're "good" for what they are, but it's likely they're built around some severe limitations imposed by the auto manufacturers.
×