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  • Rank
    Senior VIP Member
  • Birthday 04/20/1986


  • Name
  • Location
    East Bay, CA
  • Interests
    go peds, bmx, skateboarding, car audio, video games, computer
  • Audio System Setup
    saz1500d. AB VFL extreme 15" 4.0 ported 34hz. sony xm 4045. stock mids/tweets

    Knu BT-104P

    They don't have these on the site, only the negative. I bought a negative. I love it. I want a matching positive.

    Port noise?

    It's definitely the port man. I inspected the sub and the coils check out and everything looks good. It's barely noticeable unless I really listen for it, and like I said, I played it at moderate volume and inspected the cargo area and confirmed the port was making the noise. I think I'm gonna try aeros. I've had no luck finding someone to build a box for a reasonable price for the 18" I had, so I traded it for this sub. I'm pretty sure I can put together a sealed box, and add some aero ports. I have a sheet of 3/4" mdf laying around anyway. What airspace would be ideal for this sub? 26hz tuning too low? My car resonates above 41hz, and I don't like much over 36-38hz Yeah it's only 4 bolts. I took the sub out and the coils are good and everything checks out. I'll try free air tomorrow. I didn't check the inside of the box yet. It's possible that it's coming apart, since I didn't notice the port noise when I first started using the sub. It's def not the interior panels though. But there are a ton of rattles from my hatch now :\

    Port noise?


    Port noise?

    Wouldn't the sub not be able to play at all if it was the sub failing? Can you list any specific reasons you think the sub might be failing, considering the information I have provided? OK, but this box is custom, and the internal airspace is 0.07 more than the manufacturer recommends, but I think you are mainly commenting on the port area. I know anything is possible, but I sure as hell hope that someone who gets an enthusiast/competition grade sub would know to get a proper enclosure for it, lol... And about the wider port being more port area: what if the tuning stays the same? Wouldn't that mean the inside port length (how long the port extends into the enclosure) gets shorter? If I simply took this 30-32hz tuned slot port enclosure and hypothetically widened the port on the "exit" side, wouldn't that change the tuning? Basically, I'm under the impression that to keep a box tuned at 32hz, the port area would remain the same, but it would become shorter/wider to allow more air, and keep the tuning the same? Or it port area defined as the area on the exit part of the port? (the part that you can touch and see from the outside)

    12 inch subs? 2 or 3?

    How much are you buying the 12w3's for? The 12w3v3-4 was my first sub, and cost me $250. Then I bought the VVME RD-12 for $55 shipped and it blew the 12w3 out of the water...in the box designed for the 12w3... You can likely get a single 12" or 15" that would take up the same space as 2 or 3 of those 12"s (which need 1.75 ported each) and be louder than 2 of them. Even if you are on stock electrical, you could get an amp that would only draw about what your alternator puts out, and run a sub that is a bit more power than that. (I'm running a 1400w rms dc lvl 4 m2 12" with a saz1500d v1 on stock electrical in a 2010 HHR, which has a 4 cylinder motor and I belive a 130a alternator and it rarely goes under 14v) Whatever you do, please don't buy JL or kicker. Too over priced, and not built as tough as other brands like sundown, DC, DD, IA, FI, AB, etc...

    Port noise?

    Slot port. Would I need a wider port area, or more port area?


    Down For Everyone Or Just Me -> Check if your website is down or up?

    gain remote gain and line driver

    Aren't nearly all bass boost knobs set at 45hz? The way I see it, they did this for general consumers who don't even know what 30hz is, and because most generic songs are around 45hz anyway. Not to mention, some vehicles simply don't respond well to high frequencies (my vehicle peaks at 41hz, but anything above 38hz seems too high for me personally, and it seems to just rattle everything and make a humming sound, and when I got a new vehicle, it killed 3 subs (all under warranty, luckily) because apparently, it was unloading the sub or something...so for me, 45hz bass boost knob is 100% useless) An adjustable frequency for bass boost would be useful though. 30-45hz maybe? And the reason everyone says bass boost is bad and to never use it, is because it's going to clip the subs unless you know exactly how much headroom you have in a song to boost at that frequency. Example: if you open up audacity and boost 45hz 3, 5 or even 7db, I'm almost certain it's going to clip the signal. And don't most bass boost knobs boost up to +12db?

    Speaker Help

    Does the noise seem to change with the RPM's of the engine? Is it noticeable with the engine off?
  10. This sounds like one of those things that is 10% effective asking on a forum, and 90% effective to have someone help you in person. I mean, from the first post, it sounds like you literally tried everything there is and it's still not working. Post an ad on CL asking if someone can help you for free/cheap or for trades.
  11. My personaly experience with head units has been that if they have a ton of options for sound, and especially if they seem to have 2-3 different sub-menus for one particular range (sub, mid or high) they are not easy and maybe even impossible to shut the EQ off. I run my stock unit (which has 3.5mm input so it's all I need) with a line driver. The settings on the unit are all flat. I have a crossover and a sub amp going off the line driver, so all my settings are adjusted from the crossover/sub amp. I tried a this pioneer DEH-P500UB, and it did not sound the same at all. Both in louness and in sound quality. This unit has a lot of audio settings and options, and I beleive it's because of this reason that it's very difficult to set them correctly. Which options affect other options, and how? I could never figure it out, so I went back to the stock unit. Now from what I've heard, most stock units are garbage. I just happen to have a decent one, apparently. You could run a cord from your device, directly into the amplifier via 3.5mm to RCA cable, if you don't really listen to the radio or CDs' (I sure as hell don't). I would be willing to bet that if you at least tried doing this to compare the difference, it would be like night and day. (this would prove my theory that aftermarket head units with a lot of options are hard to setup and possibly have some options that can't be turned off) Another thing: that unit is not active capable, from what I can tell. At this point, I'm not sure why head units even have crossover settings, if they don't do anything, which is the impression I get from "Active capable" units. I do notice that they will slightly change the sound of stock speakers or 2-ways, or when you use the speaker outputs on a head unit anyway. They might be hindering the amplifiers' crossover settings, too.

    Port noise?

    I noticed what I think is referred to as "port noise" today. I went to inspect it while I let the sub do it's thing, and I thougtht one of the panels or something was rattling, but I figured out it was the port making the noise. It almost sounds like a plastic bag was placed near the port or the sub is violently rattlling some panels in the cargo area...very confusing unless you physically inspect it while the sub is doing some work. There is a LOT of air going through the port. I never noticed this happening with the lower powered subs I had in the box before, so I assume this might have something to do with the fact that the weaker 12"s weren't physically able to move that much air. I went from a JL 12w3v3-4 (500w rms), to a VVME RD-12 (700-ish rms), and now I'm running a DC LVL 4 m2. It still slaps, but it sounds like something is wrong now, at all frequencies. Maybe I didn't notice it because I wasn't used to the amount of bass it put out, but now that I've had it for a while, I got used to it and I'm able to hear how the sub and box are doing, instead of just being audibly blinded by the bass, perhaps? The box was built exactly to spec for the JL 12w3v3, and up until now, has given me no problems. 12W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio (scroll down to "ported enclosure specifications") the only thing I see different is that I remember JL saying that the box would be tuned to 32hz. Maybe it has changed? Anyways, DC recommends 1.5 cubes ported, and the displacement on the sub is 0.18, which would make the final internal volume at 1.57 if I'm not mistaken...would this .07 make a huge difference? What should I measure/take pictures of? I can take pics of the inside of the box, and the port and whatever else...maybe that would help determine if there is a design flaw or other reason why I'm experiencing this? I have heard people talking about "sloppy fart bass" and I always thought that was what I wanted, as bass is bass to me, but now I think I understand what they were talking about, and it's unnacceptable.

    gain remote gain and line driver

    Most gain knobs are wayyy over-priced IMO. And most are just bass boost knobs (useless). PAC LC-1 is the way to go, unless it's for the tweeters...cause the LC-1 will start to cut out the higher end when you back down off of it from 100%. PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller: Auto Electronics : Walmart.com Amazon.com: PAC LC1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller: Car Electronics pac lc-1 | eBay

    WTB: GameCube

    This. Nintendo Gamecube / GC GCN NGC Emulators | Emuparadise GCN ISOs | Emuparadise

    Memphis 16-MC3004 actual power output?

    So do they do rated? Or more? I'm a little hesitant to buy it since I've read some stuff about old memphis amps being over-rated... I want more power for my tweeters, but this amp is really just 50w more per channel, and I don't think it's worth it if it's over-rated.. Running 2 vifa 50w silk domes and was thinking about 80-100w vifas. I might just put 2 of these 50w tweets in each a-pillar and save $120. What should I do?