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About dafobbishon3

  • Rank
    CarAudio.com Elite
  • Birthday 03/02/1988


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    Sports, Music
  1. I am a long time caraudio forum member. I used to be an audiophile back in high school. You can see what I used to have in my old car in my signature below. I had a custom made 15" that was 2000rms strong and I had a sick front stage: HSK165 powered by an Arc Audio KS300.2 and I had a huge 100lbs battery in the back. I had a huge 3.5" enclosure ported at 32hz. I was reaching around the 145dBs. Unfortunately I had to sell them all and I sold the old car so now I upgraded to a 2016 Tacoma double cab. I plan on getting a dual 10" set up. I'm going more for sound quality compared to my previous build. It's been 10+ years and I want to get back into the scene. I really appreciate good sounding music. Box 1: TOYOTA TACOMA SUBWOOFER ENCLOSURE DOUBLE CAB DOUBLE 10" SUB BOX 2005-2015 | eBay - For a dual 10" sub, this is a great price at but it's the wrong year... I'm not sure if this will fit my 2016 back seats... Box 2: https://www.supercrewsound.com/05tacomadbldual.html - If box 1 won't fit, this one might but I'll have to fork over $190 including shipping but it for sure fits a 2016 because they have a 2016 option! However this is twice the price of Box 1. Subs: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWT-10S4-10-Subwoofer-4OHMS/dp/B00KHAC9SO - For 350 watt RMS 1000 watt peak, $109 is a great price for this. This is pretty under-rated and I can probably run up to 500 watts rms comfortably. Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M500-V-Power-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00BMR7UPS/ref=pd_bxgy_107_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BMR7UPS&pd_rd_r=9WG628M5B6HH1JVYXK2D&pd_rd_w=SMwft&pd_rd_wg=dhgWW&psc=1&refRID=9WG628M5B6HH1JVYXK2D - For a class D mono block at 500 watts RMS @ 2ohms, $160 is also a pretty **** good price. I do plan on upgrading the amplifier in the future but this is great for breaking it in. Wiring Kit: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B017HNIJBY/ref=pd_bxgy_107_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050I6KII&pd_rd_r=PC8DAG8KBZDZEYNS7RFW&pd_rd_w=IlqQO&pd_rd_wg=xBLoj&refRID=PC8DAG8KBZDZEYNS7RFW&th=1 - I think 4g is the largest size that'll fit this amplifier but $30 for a wiring kit isn't bad. $100 (or $190) $220 $ 30 $160 $510 IMO this is a pretty good price for a decent set up. I know alpine is a pretty good brand. I hate kicker. JL is over priced. Rockford fosgate shallow subs aren't bad but alpine beats RF in the subwoofer class that I referenced above in both price and performance. I used to have some old boston acoustics which were a pretty good entry level set of subwoofers. What do you guys think? Any experience on these or any feedback on other possible enclosures? My concern is the subwoofer box fitting in my 2016 double cab toyota tacoma, and even if it does fit, I'm concerned if the subwoofer will fit and play well without bottoming out. The mounting depth for the enclosure is 5" and the subwoofer's is at 4 13/16" so it's cutting it pretty close. I do plan on keeping the factory head unit and so I will have to purchase a LOC but that can be had on amazon for under $10
  2. My amp is setup on the back of my backseat but as for the wires, my power wire is hooked up to the power terminal on my rear battery and my ground wire from my amp is hooked up to the negative terminal of my rear battery and my rear battery is grounded. It's grounded correctly, because I used the exact same wires on my last setup. I haven't changed a thing. Wires are are still grounded in the exact same spot as they were, and my system was perfectly fine before. What I did is practically just a swap. Swap out batteries amplifier and subwoofer.
  3. dafobbishon3

    kinetik installation question

    Stinger SHD20 HPM Series Power or Ground Distribution Block That's an example of one. Instead of a battery, you can just use the distroblock. So the power wire from the front battery, run it straight to this distroblock in the back, then from there, attach your amplifier power wire to it. Then you just ground your amplifier somewhere good. When you do this instead of the battery, and your car turns on, then you know it's a battery/battery ground issue.
  4. dafobbishon3

    kinetik installation question

    Yeah, I have that same battery now; the hc600. It shouldn't cause a problem, it's a tiny one. Well then I guess. Have you tried to turn the car on, but with the rear battery hooked up and NOT the amplifier hooked up? Because if the amplifier isn't hooked up to the battery, and only the rear battery is hooked up to the front and the car turns on, then you should just try to reground the amplifier in another spot. Now if it's the other way around, and you can somehow get a hold of a distribution block, you can put the amplifier hooked up to that instead, without the rear battery, and see if it turns on then. If it does, then it's the battery and you'll have to reground that somewhere else.
  5. 37 or 38. Because the highest is 50 so that's 75% of max. At low volumes there is barely any bump, once it gets to 35-38 volume, then you start to hear a somewhat decent amount of bump, but it's no where near it should be. That decent amount of bump, keep in mind is with my subwoofer level on max on the HU and also maxed on the EQ. Bass Boost is still off and at 0. I don't want to turn my gains any more, it's already at 4v.
  6. Okay UPDATE. I tried daisy chaining anyway down to 2 ohms and there is output! There is some sound of bass. But it's not loud at all! Gain is already at 4V to match the preout voltage of my head unit. And my subwoofer settings is already on max on my head unit (this isn't bass boost btw. It's just subwoofer levels) any reason for a really weak output? Because even with everything maxed out on the HU, it's still pretty weak sounding. Not that Loud
  7. dafobbishon3

    kinetik installation question

    This happened to me before as well, car not starting. BUT it was because the battery was dead, along with my front battery. Because when you chain them together, it draws so much more energy and it has a big impact on your alternator. Unplug the rear battery and see if the car starts, if that's the case you might need a new battery. Try and check the voltage of the battery. When this happened to me I needed to get a new battery. Check the voltage of both the front and rear battery separately. What model kinetic is it?
  8. Yes. I turned it off and back on. And nothing. I haven't changed a single thing on my HU. Even with my last setup, when I sold it, I didn't turn off anything on the HU, it was still how I last left it. I initially thought that could've been the case. With the output off, no sound. But I double checked and it's on for sure!
  9. dafobbishon3

    kinetik installation question

    From what I'm reading, your kinetik is your rear battery because you have the stock one for your car up front. Assuming that's the case, you have to have two ground wires; one for the battery and one for the amplifier. That's exactly what my setup has. I have a rear battery and that battery has to be grounded and then your amplifier, instead of grounding that wire, you can just link it to the negative terminal on your rear battery. So that way, you only have one wire that's actually grounded because the ground wire for your amplifier is connected to the negative terminal of your rear battery. I feel it's best that way. If those issues still arise, you can check your ground and make sure it's on some place that has all the paint scraped off and that it's grounded properly. I also have two fuses, I have a fuse from the main battery to the rear, and another fuse from the rear battery to my amplifier. Make sure the wire from your main battery to your rear battery is 0G. So honestly it sounds like you're doing it right!
  10. Oh okay I get it, I see why they put those two extra terminals in my amp. Well I instead of daisy chaining, I just put the wires in each of their own terminal respectively just because it's neater and less of a hassle. And I try to set my gains and to see if my subwoofers work, and they don't! I know what to set my gains to. Voltage goes from 9V-0.2V And my preout voltage on my Head Unit is 4V so I wanted to put it around there, or even higher at 7V just so I can break my subwoofers in. Subsonic is around 25hz. LPF is around 80hz. Bass Boost is at 0. I don't know what's wrong. I tried to turn on the gain a little bit, then a lot a bit, and nothing was coming out of my subwoofers. The amplifier is clearly on, it doesn't go into protect, the green power light is on. Everything is connected. I try to mess with the Bass EQ even just to hear any thump, and still nothing! I even try to mess with the EQ on my Head Unit and nothing! There is no output whatsoever on my subwoofers! This is extremely frustrating, it already took me three to four hours to install everything, mount it on the back of the backseats and everything and to have the subwoofers not work... I honestly don't know what went wrong. I built my old setup from scratch, and built it and put it together all by myself no problems. My old 15' was a DVC@2ohms. I wired that down to 1ohms into my monoblock amplifier. I hooked up the RCAs, Remote, Power/Ground, and speaker wires all up. I tuned it perfectly, I've had that setup for at least 3-4 years no problem ever arose. I know what I'm doing. I tried to take some pictures, it's really late and my phone doesn't take good pictures in low light. Any ideas as to why it's not receiving any output? This is the side where all the knobs are, and there are two sets of RCA outputs, I put it on the left set because on the Hifonics manual that is where the "designated mono line input" is. This is the back of my enclosure. At the back I wired them just straight to 4 ohms. I even checked with my DMM. It sits at exactly 3.8 more or less from the back of that terminal. This is how I wired it to the amplifier. Since the terminals look like this - - + + I wired the subwoofers accordingly like this (first sub wires will be P1 and second sub will be P2) P2- P1- P2+ P1+ Should I try to daisy chain it into one set of terminals instead? I mean even if I do that, I don't think it should solve problem because right now how I have it, whether it is at 4 ohms or 2 ohms, I should still be getting output of my amplifier to my subwoofers, but I hear nothing and I feel nothing coming out. :\ I tested the amplifier with my DMM and I tested the power terminals (not the speaker terminals) and I got a 14V with the car on so that's good. Amplifier is working. There's just gotta be one small thing missing. But I don't know what! Please anyone help! I'd rather try and fix it myself before I turn it in to an audio shop and ask them to diagnose it. If it helps, here's the setup HU: Pioneer Premier DEH-600UB Subwoofers: 2 12" Kenwood KFC-W3013PS Amplifier: Hifonics Brutus BRX1100.1D Rear Battery: Kinetic HC600
  11. Well I finally received my amp! Apparently the Hifonics BRX1100.1D mono block amplifier has two channels, not one ( like a mono block would have ) -_- Now with that said, since there are two channels, I "assuming" should be okay with just wiring the subs as 4 ohms as they are intended and just + and - wires straight from the subwoofers to the back terminals of the enclosure and directly to each of their own designated channel to I would get 400w RMS @ 4 ohms per sub. Correct? I would not have to worry about daisy chaining down to 2 ohms.
  12. I already saw that image. I can't follow that image. Like I said, each section the enclosure is divided separately so I can't wire the subs together inside the box. I have to do it outside. Another member of the forum recommended I do this kind of wiring setup outside the enclosure. He said it's technically the same as my image, it's just twisted together on different terminals but the math adds up the same.
  13. Hey Umbra! I have a question for you. Someone sent this to me on another post saying that my 1st wiring diagram that I showed you; where it is daisy chained onto the amp terminals, saying that it's bad. Can you confirm this? If he's right, in this case, I'll just choose the diagram you showed me where i'll just daisy chain it on the outer speaker terminal rather than the amp terminals. I also don't think he realized that my enclosure has divided sections for each sub.
  14. I already have the big 3 upgrade under the hood. And Yeah, I still have my 4G wires from my other setup. I kept all my wires, RCA, Remote Wire, Power Wire, Ground Wire. It's all just hanging in my truck with nothing to bolt to XD. The remote wire though is daisy chained to my frontstage amp. I only sold my speaker wire, but I think those were 14 or 16G? So I would just have to buy those speaker wires and since those are thin, those are pretty inexpensive as well. What gauge speaker wire do you recommend so that it'll be much easier to daisy chain into one terminal?
  15. Awesome, Thank you SO SO SO much! That's exactly what I needed to know! So EITHER your wiring diagram OR mine will be corrrect for 2 ohms. I'll just see with my trunk which looks nicer and is easier to conceal the wires. This is the best price I could find with this amp and sub combo. Do you think I should buy a battery or is my stock batter enough for this substage+my front stage? I was planning on getting a Kinetik hc600 because I originally had a huge battery and that's what my amps were ground to, and powered to. But now that I don't have a battery anymore, I would either have to ground both amps to the chassis, or spend another $50 on this battery. What would you recommend?