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Streetz

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About Streetz

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/09/1985

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  • Location
    Chicago
  • Interests
    Computers
  1. Streetz

    Amplifier(?) help

    Thanks for your reply... The ground is very good, moved to a new spot at the bottom of my trunk. Used sandpaper and got all the paint off, good connection there. Both ground and positive wires are 4 gauge, biggest the amp can take, so maybe a cap is needed. When I tried a second set of RCAs, they weren't ran through the car. Since it was for testing purposes, I had plugged them in the CD player out the door and straight to the trunk and amplifier so it can't be the way the current ones are run. This box is brand new and made per the subwoofers' specs. I thought maybe it was the box I had them in before (from my old system) so went out and got a new one made, same thing so that rules out the box. Guess I'll try and get my amp tested this week. For substituting the subs, I assumed since they BOTH did it and at the exact same time it wasn't them. I can take one from my previous setup and see if it does it as well to be sure it's not the subs. If it's not, then I guess everything just points to my amplifier EDIT ADDED: I forgot to mention that the distortion sounds happen every 2 or 3 times from the deep bass notes. Example, playing a song, same beat throughout it. Deep bass for 1 second every 4 seconds. The distortion will happen every other time, or 3 times. This is why I thought maybe it was the box, bad circulation. But I'll still get my amp tested and a cap purchased.
  2. Streetz

    Amplifier(?) help

    I'm actually unsure if it's the amp, headunit or subwoofers... I recently just installed a new subwoofer setup (2 RF P3D412, a Profile AP2000 amplifier and a custom vent box). For about a week everything worked fine, than the subwoofers have a constant humming sound coming out of them. When the music is up loud and deep bass hits the subwoofers make a horrible distortion sound. I don't really know how to describe it other then it's not right and is freaking me out. When that happens all the lights inside and outside dim. I've tried different RCA cables and moving the ground to a new place (had to move it anyways). The amp is pushing about 75-80% (350-400w x 2) even though the subwoofers are able to handle full load. The humming is constant and will get louder or softer if I change the output of the amplifier. It's not real loud, just enough to be annoying if I have music muted or paused. Also I noticed yesterday it only happens when playing a CD, didn't hum when switched to radio. When I unplug the RCA cables the humming stops. When I disable the subwoofer output via headunit, the humming still continues which leads me to believe it's not the HU. Last thing is when I turn on the car a popping noise comes from the subwoofers for a brief second. I have an old Pioneer headunit that needs to be replaced soon because it's been acting up for a while now, but with the joly season coming up, money is short and would like to wait until next year if at all possible. I'm not sure where to start with the problem, or what could be causing it. I checked the subwoofer wiring, everything's hooked correctly. I thought maybe I need a cap or do "the big 4" which I haven't done yet, or the headunit. I'm thinking power is the issue and a cap is needed. I'm praying it's not the new amp or subs though. Any help is greatly appreciated, so thanks in advance for any help!
  3. Streetz

    amp cuttin off

    Bad subwoofer maybe? I had the same issue, everytime it hit a certain volume my amp would cut off and go into protection mode. Ended up being one of my subwoofers was dead. Just a thought. If the subwoofer is fine, try rewiring without a switch, certainly could be the issue.
  4. Streetz

    Hi There

    I was reading that thread this week and am going to do it. Since my cap has been unhooked for about 2 months or so it's probably dead, I don't have a resistor to recharge it anyways. thanks for the welcome, much appreciated I'm sure I'll be very happy with my purchase. Um, hi, and welcome
  5. Streetz

    Easy question

    They do tend to be purdy
  6. Streetz

    Hi There

    Hey everyone, figured I'd make an intro of myself and say hi. Originally registered because I had some subwoofer questions, but like this forum so am going to stick around. I've installed quite a few systems, but never took it seriously or got as technical as most people here. Guess it's time to grow up and do it right, right Anyways, I live in Chicago, west burb to be exact. I currently own a 96 Mercury Cougar and an 06 Honda CR-V (really it's my girlfriend's), and planning on selling the Cougar and getting something like a Maxima or Trailblazer spring of 09. In the Cougar I have a 5 year old Pioneer H/U (if it's not broken, don't fix it right?), just installed some 3-way Pioneer speakers in front and rear. I did have a 1200w SPL amplifier powering 2 12" SPL subwoofers with a 1farad capacitor. About 2 months ago system went haywire, right sub went out and amp is dead. I recently bought a 2000w Profile amplifier and have 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D412s on the way. Once they arrive am going to have sealed box made and will be good to go. Can't wait, and will take pictures once completed. Site so far, and I've only just begun reading, is amazing and you guys are very knowledgable. Looking forward to learning even more
  7. Streetz

    Easy question

    LOL, thanks for the input. Oddly, just taping it never even crossed my mind.
  8. I had to rewire my car, originally I had it going through the door jam because I didn't want to bother with the firewall. Everytime I open and closed the door in would pinch the cable and it started to frey(sp?). So I rewired it correctly, going through the firewall to the trunk. The positive cable would not reach to my trunk. I had a second wiring kit laying around so what I did is I cut it and used the second fuse holder to extend the connection so it would reach. My question is, is having 2 fuses on the positive cable harmful? Both sets of cable are 4 gauge. I realise there is probably loss of power, but is it bad? Should I find a longer single wire and rerun that instead? I will be getting a new car spring of 09 so I guess you can call this a temporary solution until then, but still wanted input on it. Thanks.
  9. Streetz

    Few questions

    So according to that wiring diagram wizard, I can do the following wiring series to get an 8 ohm load: and it will be fine connected as the bridged 4ohm stable on the amp?
  10. Streetz

    Few questions

    I'll take a look at that and thanks
  11. Streetz

    Few questions

    I'll try to keep this short, but have a dilemma: First, I've never dealt with DVC subwoofers before, and right now very confused. I bought an amplifier (Profile AP2000) for a pair of subs I have (which I found out a week ago one is blown). Now the amplifier can have the following setup: -320 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (480 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms) -960 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) Now because I found out one of my current subs are blown, I purchased 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D212s. I chose the 2ohm model thinking I can wire both at 2ohms so the amp will output 480 watts RMS. I'm looking at the wiring diagrams and it shows no way that I can do either 2 at 2 ohms or bridged at 4 ohms to get the most out of my amplifier. My question basically comes down to... am I missing something in the wiring? If they're the 2 ohm model, why can I only get 4 ohm by themselves? Can I only use one set of terminals and that will get me 2ohms, or are all 4 supposed to be connected in one way or another? I'm sorry if I come off as an idiot, just frustrated.
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