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About CadillacMatt

  • Rank
    Disturbing the Peace
  • Birthday 08/30/1987


  • About me
    Like to record music, produce albums
  • Location
    San Antonio, TX
  • Occupation
    Aircraft Composite Technician
  • Interests
    Music Production & Engineering
  1. CadillacMatt

    RE Audio MT 15"

    Item(s) for Sale: RE Audio MT 15" Subwoofer Item(s) Description/Condition: DVC 2Ohm sub has minor damage to surround which I've fixed with silicone, doesn't affect performance of the driver..former owner did a fresh recone, driver has seen 2200w for about two months with no issues, about a year on 1200w due to financial constraints. Recently totaled my vehicle with no plans to purchase another anytime soon so the boom boom has to go unfortunately.. Can't afford initial shipping costs nor do I have the cash flow to build a crate just yet so local pickup would be great (San Antonio area). Thanks for checking it out. Price: Asking 350$ Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information: Local pickup. Item Pictures: (List pictures in this section, 1st picture should be your username/date if you have less than 10 positive feedbacks with the i-Trader system or less than 10 references that you have sold to in the past. (These must be listed in your signature, or a link provided to a feedback thread listing these references)). My name and date on paper Sub Pic 1 Sub Pic 2
  2. CadillacMatt

    Distance from port to back wall

    Of course, box is still under construction
  3. I realize this has been discussed a lot, but I usually find many answers to this question. The general consensus of 1/2 dia. of port distance from the rear wall is acceptable, right? I just wanted to get some second opinions before I chop my port tube down any. As it stands, I will have anywhere from 3.5" to 4" of distance to the rear wall, would this be fine for an 8.75" port? I realize it's a little less than half of the port diameter. The back end WILL be flared, if it makes a difference... and it's an 18" woofer in about 6 cubes of space. Thanks! Pic: This is the setup, port hasn't been trimmed yet.
  4. Thanks for the reply,<br />

    <br />

    I decided to go with a sub up, port back config in my trunk setup for the woofer, one of the reasons being I couldn't get anyone at Sundown to help me figure out the T/S parameters on this re-coned Nightshade (has an extra stiff spider) so I would pretty much have to guess at them... which is exactly opposite what you want to do when designing a bandpass... or any enclosure for that matter lol!<br />

    <br />

    Thanks though!

  5. yea i can hook ya up<br />

    is it goin in a car or suv

  6. Hi,<br />

    <br />

    I was browsing through a few threads on the forums and I noticed you seem to have excellent knowledge of enclosure design, plus you're running with Sundown too...<br />

    <br />

    I'm trying to design a 4th order for an 18" Nightshade, if you would have any time to give some basic advice or insight I would REALLY appreiate it! <br />

    <br />

    Thank you!

  7. CadillacMatt

    18" in trunk... sub back port forward?

    Now I'm thinking about maybe doing a 4th order BP box, but have the port directly through the rear deck. Something tuned low and nasty like maybe 28Hz, sacrifice a little efficiency to make the passband wider, maybe something in the range of 20-50Hz if that might be possible? Haven't built a bandpass before but I've built enclosures, also been reading up on them for the past two days now so I'm starting to get a general idea... if anyone has any experience I would appreciate it thanks! Oh by the way if anyone wanted to see this big bastard here it is next to my 15" Fi Q lol
  8. CadillacMatt

    18" in trunk... sub back port forward?

    It's funny you mention that I was thinking about that earlier... couldn't find anything on Google about it, I don't see why it would be so different from having one large port right? Just to split the difference between the two? Hmm... thanks for the input! edit: Just saw your reply about the aeroports 813thumper, I hadn't considered that but that would make things 10x easier... sitting here crunching a few numbers and this is what I came up with correct me if I'm wrong at all-- An 8" aeroport would give ~50in² of port area (3.14 x 4²) A 6" aeroport would give ~28in² of port area (3.14 x 3²) A 4" aeroport would give ~12-13in² of port area (3.14 x 2²) I've been reading that true flared aeroports require anywhere from 8-12in² of port area per ft³ of internal enclosure volume, compared to 12in²-16in² with a traditional slot port... and I've also read that one should go towards the higher port area side for more powerful setups... so following that theory, if the box's internal volume is say 6 cubes, assuming I chose to go with 10in²-12in² of port area per cube then the total port area should be 60in²-72in² respectively right? It seems that two 6" aeroports wouldn't be enough (56in²), two 8" would be way too much (100in²), would I have to do like two 6's and a 4 or some strange combination like that? Thanks
  9. Hey all So I'm going to be installing an 18" Sundown Nightshade in the trunk of my '95 Caddy, and I have been trying to come up with a workable solution for a box design. Been sifting through threads but haven't really seen too many builds with a sub back/port front design or vice-versa. It seems that any other design would take up the entire trunk with little room for any other equipment. This is what I'm proposing: Top down view of the trunk. The yellow dashed line is the rear deck, about 19" total height clearance. The grey dashed line is the recessed spare tire well, about 6" or so deep. Box sides and top would be built as to contour around the wheel wells. This would be the view from the back, I apologize for the shitty drawing.. it gives the impression that the box is sealed off from the cabin but in reality it would have about 5" or so of clearance (what I'm shooting for...). The woofer is recessed down into the tire well, I could fabricate the bottom of the enclosure out of fiberglass I'm thinking to contour to the floor pan. Last but not least here is an actual picture of the trunk taken before the sound deadening for visual clarity I would want the box to be about 5-6 cubes of internal volume... I've long since forgotten the trunk measurements and haven't gotten into the specifics of it yet but this was just a preliminary idea I was tossing around... anybody worked with a design like this? Thanks a million guys
  10. CadillacMatt

    rearview mirror wont stay on

    Make yourself a metal bracket that attaches to the roof and comes down through the headliner, bolt the mirror to that. My mirror spontaneously exploded one day while I was driving, two pieces flew off and one hit me in the face nearly missing my eye... lol
  11. CadillacMatt

    HELP!!!! what could this be?

    My Pioneer did the same thing a few years back. I was running the 4000UB, and did something similar to bubbagumper with the wiring, had all sorts of noise issues... subs would thud whenever the door closed, speakers would whine... Did a quick search, found the grounding issue, took a piece of bare wire and snaked it around the ground rings on the deck RCA's and screwed it onto the metal casing, problem solved. Start there
  12. CadillacMatt

    Funny Car Audio Craigslist Fight......

    Steve Meade? Oh no girl you di-int! *slap fight ensues*
  13. CadillacMatt

    $1000 Complete System Budget Help

    Hmm... Well, starting with the head unit, assuming you want something fairly basic but still highly functional as indicated by your budget... I used to run a Pioneer 4000UB, it has a USB connection in the back, so you can safely tuck your iPod in the glovebox or elsewhere out of view and still have full control plus automatic charging. Lots of EQ adjustments on the HU as well to get your music sounding just right. Bought mine new for about $140. As for the speakers, there's a whole gamut of options what it comes down to mainly is budget and how much of a discerning SQ guy you are. If you want something basic that will sound great, shoot over to woofersetc.com and check out some of the popular mid-priced coax's or components. I've had very good experience with Pioneer speakers, but I recommend against Kenwood. Sticking to your budget.. shoot for something in the $50-$70 range. And this is taking into account four speakers. As for powering them, the amp selection is pretty much endless, browse around on the for sale forums or online for a decently-priced 4 channel that matches the RMS wattage of your speakers. This can be had for under $100. So we come to the sub... can't help you too much here until I know what kind of low end you want. Do you listen mostly to rock, where you would want the bass to blend smoothly into the rest of the music? Or do you want something that will pound your chest and rattle your bones? Either way, I love my Fi subs and they have some very decently priced woofers you can check them out at ficaraudio.com. If you have tools or a friend with tools and basic shop experience, building the box is the best option (you can get someone over at Fisher Customs to design a box for your subs online for $20) but if not, shop around for a solidly built box at your local audio shop that meets the space dimensions required by your woofer. Hope that will get you started... depending on all the factors, this could cost anywhere from $900-$1100 without installation.
  14. CadillacMatt

    What is your "showoff" song?

    Yeah that's a good one I been usin' 'Slim Thug - Thug from around the way' for demos lately
  15. CadillacMatt

    I'm bored

    lol... I guess?? Dude it's like 45 degrees down here in Texas I can't even imagine how cold it is up in Maine