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About CadillacMatt

  • Rank
    Disturbing the Peace
  • Birthday 08/30/1987


  • About me
    Like to record music, produce albums
  • Location
    San Antonio, TX
  • Occupation
    Aircraft Composite Technician
  • Interests
    Music Production & Engineering
  1. CadillacMatt

    RE Audio MT 15"

    Item(s) for Sale: RE Audio MT 15" Subwoofer Item(s) Description/Condition: DVC 2Ohm sub has minor damage to surround which I've fixed with silicone, doesn't affect performance of the driver..former owner did a fresh recone, driver has seen 2200w for about two months with no issues, about a year on 1200w due to financial constraints. Recently totaled my vehicle with no plans to purchase another anytime soon so the boom boom has to go unfortunately.. Can't afford initial shipping costs nor do I have the cash flow to build a crate just yet so local pickup would be great (San Antonio area). Thanks for checking it out. Price: Asking 350$ Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information: Local pickup. Item Pictures: (List pictures in this section, 1st picture should be your username/date if you have less than 10 positive feedbacks with the i-Trader system or less than 10 references that you have sold to in the past. (These must be listed in your signature, or a link provided to a feedback thread listing these references)). My name and date on paper Sub Pic 1 Sub Pic 2
  2. I realize this has been discussed a lot, but I usually find many answers to this question. The general consensus of 1/2 dia. of port distance from the rear wall is acceptable, right? I just wanted to get some second opinions before I chop my port tube down any. As it stands, I will have anywhere from 3.5" to 4" of distance to the rear wall, would this be fine for an 8.75" port? I realize it's a little less than half of the port diameter. The back end WILL be flared, if it makes a difference... and it's an 18" woofer in about 6 cubes of space. Thanks! Pic: This is the setup, port hasn't been trimmed yet.
  3. Thanks for the reply,<br />

    <br />

    I decided to go with a sub up, port back config in my trunk setup for the woofer, one of the reasons being I couldn't get anyone at Sundown to help me figure out the T/S parameters on this re-coned Nightshade (has an extra stiff spider) so I would pretty much have to guess at them... which is exactly opposite what you want to do when designing a bandpass... or any enclosure for that matter lol!<br />

    <br />

    Thanks though!

  4. yea i can hook ya up<br />

    is it goin in a car or suv

  5. Hi,<br />

    <br />

    I was browsing through a few threads on the forums and I noticed you seem to have excellent knowledge of enclosure design, plus you're running with Sundown too...<br />

    <br />

    I'm trying to design a 4th order for an 18" Nightshade, if you would have any time to give some basic advice or insight I would REALLY appreiate it! <br />

    <br />

    Thank you!

  6. Hey all So I'm going to be installing an 18" Sundown Nightshade in the trunk of my '95 Caddy, and I have been trying to come up with a workable solution for a box design. Been sifting through threads but haven't really seen too many builds with a sub back/port front design or vice-versa. It seems that any other design would take up the entire trunk with little room for any other equipment. This is what I'm proposing: Top down view of the trunk. The yellow dashed line is the rear deck, about 19" total height clearance. The grey dashed line is the recessed spare tire well, about 6" or so deep. Box sides and top would be built as to contour around the wheel wells. This would be the view from the back, I apologize for the shitty drawing.. it gives the impression that the box is sealed off from the cabin but in reality it would have about 5" or so of clearance (what I'm shooting for...). The woofer is recessed down into the tire well, I could fabricate the bottom of the enclosure out of fiberglass I'm thinking to contour to the floor pan. Last but not least here is an actual picture of the trunk taken before the sound deadening for visual clarity I would want the box to be about 5-6 cubes of internal volume... I've long since forgotten the trunk measurements and haven't gotten into the specifics of it yet but this was just a preliminary idea I was tossing around... anybody worked with a design like this? Thanks a million guys
  7. Hey all, I have a question about routing power in the car for mobile video... I have 6 items that need to be powered on the roof: 3 15" flip-down monitors, 2 sun visor monitors, and a video signal booster. Each piece of equipment has #18 gauge power/ground leads and they are fused with very thin glass fuses, so I'm assuming they draw very little amperage (none of the equipment lists actual numbers and Google searches proved useless) so I'm assuming total load I'm looking at under 15 amps or so. I have some spare 9ga wire I could run from the battery up to the headliner for power (it might be overkill but the next smallest wire I have is 18ga and I'm trying to work with what I already have available...) Once I get the 12v lead run from the battery up to the headliner, I'm not sure what the best way to distribute the power would be... I've thought of everything from installing a mini-fuse box (might not fit up in the headliner where I need it, plus cost issue) to an inline fuse holder (9ga in, 6 x 18ga wires out) and for a minute I even considered the half-ass way but I'd rather not do that (cut the 9ga insulation 6 times and just wrap a wire around each slice to tap power.. lol not very professional or safe) So, my main question is, what would be the best way to distribute the power to each of these devices? Thanks!
  8. CadillacMatt

    Two sources... one output?

    Hey guys I have a little project I need help with. I recently purchased a new head unit with a monitor, replacing my old Pioneer 4000UB with iPod control. The new unit only has RCA Aux-In and does not offer iPod integration. What I am trying to accomplish is have my iPod play audio output through the sound system (two amps - one for mids/highs and one for subs) independent of the head unit, so I can play videos/movies on the head unit while still having the option to listen to a different track than what's being outputted from the movie... if that makes sense. It would be an easy solution to plug the iPod directly to the Aux-In of the head unit but then the screens would just display a blue screen while in that mode... I was thinking of running the iPod output through a powered equalizer (the dock connector output of the iPod gives the best quality but it's not powered like the headphone jack, so it needs a preamp and a volume control) and then back to the amps, but that means I would need some kind of two input/one output RCA splitter for each channel on the amp, and I heard that it was not a good idea to combine sources like that... even if you are only playing one at a time, they say that they will short each other out? The only other option I was considering was to take the outputs from the HU, and the outputs from the iPod/crossover, and running them into an RCA switcher box... but even then, most switcher boxes only have 3 RCA inputs (R, W, and Y) and I would need at least 5 for all of the amp connections... so confusing... Thanks if anyone can help!
  9. CadillacMatt

    Multiple speakers

    Hey all, know it's been a while but I have to ask for some advice guys. After a few months of running my ID comps off of a bridged 4CH amp (150wRMS) dialed down to about 100wRMS, I got a wild hair up my ass and decided to run them off of one channel each. The output was about the same but the clarity is so much better! My Q's are still drowning out the highs though so I'm looking into multiple speakers... I have my 6.5"s in custom door pods, and the tweets in the A-Pillars. I was going to put two Kenwood 5.25"s that I have in the rear sails (run off HU), maybe purchase a set of 4" speakers for the upper front doors(run off HU), which would leave me with an extra two channels on the Infinity to slap onto another set of co-ax speakers but I'm debating on where to put them... The dash is out of the question because of the airbag, I have some real estate on the knee bolsters but that would leave the speakers downfiring... and I spent quite a bit of time on the door pods so I wouldn't want to re-do them to accomodate another set of speakers... any of you guys running multiple speakers have any ideas? Thanks!
  10. CadillacMatt

    Sealed or Free-Air kickpanels?

    I'm thinking of fabricating some kick panels for my car, the component set I have are the IDCTX65CS, which are free-air/IB designed according to specs... should I design kicks with an open side to allow the free-air, or seal it up? I was debating putting them in the door but the trim panel is a tad bit too small to contain them. I've heard that sealing midranges doesn't give good results... anyone help me out? Thanks
  11. CadillacMatt

    Shakes, rattles, and rolls

    OK, so after spending about $400 on sound deadener so far (Damplifier Pro FTW) I've quieted the trunk down quite a bit. Now my major issue is everything ELSE attached to the car that's rattling I glued some stiff foam to the back of my license plate, but the trim ring and bumper trim among other things rattles like the dickens. So, how do all you sound deadeners out there get creative with it? I thought of maybe silicone behind the trim, maybe weatherstripping, any other ideas?
  12. CadillacMatt

    Component speaker placement

    OK, so I just got my Image Dynamics IDCTX65CS comps in the other day, and I'm anxious to hear them. I'm going to need to build a baffle in order to use the stock 5 1/4" location for the midbass, but I'm trying to figure out where to mount the tweeters. The manual says to keep the speakers as close as possible, so would I lose anything by having the midbass down in the door panel and the tweets up near the A-pillar?
  13. CadillacMatt

    liljojo4711 - great seller

    Jody is a very fast shipper, I purchased a set of IDCTX65CS comps new from him and they were shipped out the day after I paid. Items received in great condition. Would do business with again and can recommend him
  14. CadillacMatt

    OK to leave stock tweets in?

    So I have a set of IDCTX65CS comps on the way, replacing my 5 1/4" Kenwoods and stock tweets in the door. I planned on mounting the tweets on the A-Pillar, and modifying the door to fit the 6.5"s. My question is, would it be overkill to leave the stock tweeters connected? They are running off of the HU, and seem to be in a bad location in the middle of the door firing straight ahead. Thanks!
  15. I have an Excalibur alarm system that was installed earlier this year. If I decided to install additional sirens, pain generators, etc. etc. would I need something along the lines of a relay to trigger them? (kinda like the concept of triggering multiple amps off of one remote wire).