Jump to content

mendon mafia

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

  • Country

    United States

About mendon mafia

  • Rank
    2 12's 6+kW Chrysler300M
  • Birthday 03/10/1989


  • Location
    Tricities WA
  • Audio System Setup
    Subs in the works, (2) AT3000.1D's, Soundmagus CP91 bridged, Polk MM6, 2 stinger spv70, 200 amp alt
  1. mendon mafia

    Amp Dyno Wolfram 2400....2400 watts for $199

    I love this amp so far! only got a few hours on it and need to beef up my electrical before wiring to 1 ohm. but its really strong at 4 ohm and I have been getting great customer service from Colin! He was very helpful in sending a replacement bass knob cable that was lost in shipping and was very responsive through the shipping issue. My only complaints so far are how bright the power light is on the bass knob and that its hard to turn the knobs on the amp without a screw driver or finger nails. Both are so minor they are hardly worth mentioning but just to show im not biased lol Everything else is great! Excellent terminals and mounting tabs and a very compact and sensible package. Sounds fine and the clipping light works good. Fliters all work and the simplicity is much appreciated. I wish I bought 2 or 4 for the price I paid
  2. mendon mafia

    Tc3000 > Btl??

    110%! It must have been in a trash box. I actually like how my btl sounds but would always appreciate some more low end lol. Mines in a 3/4" pine plywood box, 4 or 4.5 cubes (cant remember off hand) at ~30hz. Single baffle but braced from top to bottom and the sub is practically screwed into the rear panel of the box because it so close to it. Its sturdy af. Sub fires up, slot port opening runs along the bottom and fires back to the rear bumber. The slot port is approximately 2x30 with a 3/4" divider in the middle mostly to serve as a brace. The length of the port comes out right at the corner so the corner is adding a bit of port length too but there is no price corresponding to the second port piece in the RE box calculator to actually make the bend. Of course it's rather a moot point because I'd build a new box of it matters in a second. Considering the price on the tc3k I figurd this was worth reinvestigating. I remember when I was running 2 12s that I wanted them really bad but they were over $400 each from what recall. There are certainly pros to running a single 15. But I find more versatility with 2 12s in terms of not needing a 16inch tall box to fire them horizontally so I would still consider that option despite the obvious cost difference. Are the TCs just low end monsters and roll off over 50hz or something? I
  3. mendon mafia

    Tc3000 > Btl??

    ten years later and i'm in this same boat. I have a btl ufo style loaded 15 and am considering getting a TC 3k 15 or 2 12's in search of some better sq although the btl doesn't sound bad to me i just saw how cheap the TC 3k's are going for and want to see if i can do better without losing any output. I have an Orion 5k for power but its at 4 ohm now. Am i gonna miss output from the btl?
  4. mendon mafia

    Need a refresher!

    Thank you! I agree lots of these are subjective. I already went to Walmart to test some but they were all lower end than I liked and none were intuitive in my experience. Objectively: I'm looking for good crossover functionality with the ability to run active from the deck and adjustable slopes. Time delay would be nice. An eq with at least 7 bands. 4volt or higher preouts. 3 sets of RCA outs. Bluetooth with mic for calls. 24bit DAC. But from what it sounds like anything mid road and up should be good here. I'll have to go to a real shop or best buy to try some better decks. BTW my pioneer 590ib was my first deck and it still kicking some 12 years later and being in 4 vehicles! Just out of curiosity, does anyone know about the Kenwood KDC-X702? also how does it differ from the 302 and 502 models besides port placements? These seem to have good crossovers and eqs also. Lastly am I stupid for wanting CD? I hardly listen to them anyways. Is there something better I can get if I ditch the cd?
  5. mendon mafia

    Need a refresher!

    Hi guys, Been out of the game for a while but looking at getting a new deck as it is becoming somewhat expensive plus my time and labor to add a bluetooth adapter when I s womt be able to skip tracks from the deck. So I figured if I'm gonna get a deck I want something decent. Last deck I bought was a flagship JVC about 10 years ago. It has 5v preputs and 24bit burr brown DAC but has very limited crossover functionality and eq. I also hate the user interface, very clunky navigation. I also hate how the bluetooth uses a module that goes in one if the 2 USB ports (LOL!) I much prefer the interface (rocking knob) of the pioneer 590IB. Do pioneers still use the rocking knobs for navigation? I'm considering the 880PRS but don't know if I'll be able to tell the difference over the other decks I'm used to. I know it has way more adjustments but is it worth the $700 price tag? I would love to spend under $200 but am willing to spend more for a proven quality upgrade. I would like single DIN, at least 4V preouts and a 24bit DAC. Bluetooth with hands free and good sounding mic. CD. USB. AUX. 7 band eq (preferably parametric). Am/FM. Hd radio. Front/rear/sub switchable to high/mid/sub. I am also interested in any units that may have bass restoration like the epicenter built in but I doubt any do. I'm currently running passive but I would like the ability to have a separate crossover network that allows for active crossover adjustment between tweeter and mid. I've landed on the Pioneer DEH-X8800BHS. $180 from crutchfield which seems like a good buy as this was about what I paid for my JVC about 10 years ago. Is there anything else I should consider or that is truly worth more money? Thanks!
  6. Its installed right now but here are some. That's Gorilla glue around the ports. Can easily be scraped off.
  7. Time Left: 8 days and 15 hours

    • WANTED
    • NEW

    Looking for one pair of tweeters that I can run passive using my Polk mm6 crossover and 150w rms. Preferably metal inverted dome. Ideally mb quart ptk40


  8. WTB High power wide dispersion metal 3000-20000hz View Listing Looking for one pair of tweeters that I can run passive using my Polk mm6 crossover and 150w rms. Preferably metal inverted dome. Ideally mb quart ptk40 Advertiser mendon mafia Date 11/03/2018 Price $100.00 Category Wanting to Buy/Wanting to Trade  
  9. I got a single ported 1.7cubes at 42 hz. No terminals as I built it for testing purposes only. It's a really strong box and has 2 4" ports so you can plug one to change the tune. It's not finished and made from 3/4" birch. $50 plus shipping?
  10. mendon mafia

    2 sealed vs 1 ported. My experience so far!

    perhaps. but this is just my experience and a place for others to share their experiences and also to suggest new experiments and give feedback
  11. Hi everyone, Before I get started, for reference: Vehicle-1994 Chevy Caprice 9C1 Electrical - stock, 1/0 from battery to amp, grounded to trunk floor, needs big 3 or more but suffices for now Amp - Wolfram Audio 2400.1d (has clipping indicator bass knob!), subsonic 10hz, hpf max Woofers - 10" Orion 2NT, DVC 4 ohm, 500W rms, 1000W peak Headunit - Pioneer 590IB, LPF 125 hz, HPF 80hz Speakers - Stock powerd from headunit, Rear speakers faded down to 30% I just wanted to put together a little write up of my findings from this week. I have been experimenting with some 10" DVC Orion 2NT woofers I got in a trade deal in a prefab bandpass box. I ran the prefab for a while and to my surprise it sounded pretty good even without the port tubes installed (just holes effectively as long as the wood thickness) having a pretty busted up baffle, and being made from particle board! However, I wanted to see if they could do better in a better enclosure while also saving me some trunk space (not that i care in this car but useful info in general) Getting into it, I was always curious between the pros/cons of running 2 woofers sealed vs 1 ported. In terms of trunk space, both use roughly the same amount and for me this is main issue with any system. With 2 sealed you get more coil for more thermal power handling, but if you need to send more power you could potentially need electrical upgrades etc. With one ported you gain efficiency, lower cost, and reduced weight, but you might lose DB's or SQ. Do note, i am not a fan of sealed boxed in general. I like the low end boost of ported boxes. For theory, adding a port to a sealed enclosure adds ~3db. this is a rule of thumb and in the car often results in much more significant gains depending on tuning, etc. Adding a second woofer in a sealed application should theoretically double your efficiency and power handling, but how this translates to SPL is unclear to me, but I would also expect at least a 3db gain, especially when factoring in double the power consumption if running the subs in parallel. So in the real world I can see this going either way for the output battle. In terms of SQ, everyone says sealed is better, however I disagree with this and have never built a ported box that I thought sounded bad (including in this experiment, more later) and in fact I always like the response curve better from a ported box. Initially I thought it had to be properly tuned to sound better but I found that tuning is actually not that important, amazingly! I would also like to add that I am still experimenting and willing to take suggestions from others to test various things. I DO NOT HAVE A METER so everything I say about output is based on ear at the head rest. Both enclosures (dual sealed and single ported) I accidentally built the net volume to the 12" gross volume subwoofer specs, despite thinking they seemed quite big for a 10 i never went back to double check lol. But this was an important learning experience for me as i have never ran a sub off much off spec box size. consequently, The recommended net volume boxes are (for a single sub) 0.77 cuft sealed and 1.26 cuft @32 hz for the 10", and 0.86 cuft sealed and 1.51 cuft at 31hz for the 12". The enclosures I built (specs for one sub) in net volumes are 1.0 cuft sealed, and 1.7 cuft at 42/29hz. The sealed box has a divider in the middle so each sub sees it own chamber. The ported box has two 21" long x 4" diameter ports to allow for two tuning frequencies by plugging one of the ports. When running the dual sealed box I wired the subs in parallel for a 1 ohm load. The single ported was ran at 2ohms. Both setups I was able to drive to clipping without distortion (until clipping) It also seemed as the woofers were over extending once at clipping, though its hard to tell for sure without looking a the subs hidden in the trunk but it sounded pretty bad and muddy. I built and tested the dual sealed box first. Right off the bat I was shocked at the low end extension, how poor the upper bass response was, and how low the power handling seemed. All of this told me the box was considerably too large but i still decided to build the ported box too big also, lol. Anyways, the output was pretty good, better than the bandpass box the subs came in but I was super disappointed how peaky it was in the low end. I never expected this from a sealed box especially having my LPF setting set so high (i usually cross my subs much lower, like ~60hz) but i thought I built it to spec a the time. Makes more sense now looking back. The ported box was of course my favorite. I honestly think I like how the port "colors" the sound and theoretically the distortion is less near port tuning since the woofer hardly moves. I really only tested this box at 42hz tuning, as I think I need better plugs. The box was not behaving correctly with the one port plugged with a bunch of rags in a plastic bag. I figured it would just act as if it was intermediate between plugged and unplugged but instead it seemed to cause the woofer to unload and killed the output. Keep in mind 42hz is the highest tuning I have ever built. Previously the highest I built was 35hz. I was very surprised how low the box still went being tuned so high. Didn't seem to unload either even below port tuning. In fact it had more unloading issues at high frequencies. In terms of output, the ported box did seem a bit louder and the output seemed flatter and overall the bass has more impact. Weirdly the sealed box seemed to have more of a peak (at very low frequencies) than the ported box but the sound was muddy and lacked punch. I suppose this could be from the fact that the enclosure was too large but so was the ported box... What I learned from this so far is that I still like ported boxes best but I need to try the sealed again with appropriate net volume. Much to my surprise, ported boxes, even significantly too large and tuned high can still yield flat response. I think the tolerances for getting good sound from a ported box are actually a lot larger than most lead you to believe, in fact I would argue that sealed boxes must be built more accurately for proper sound, based on this experiment alone. For me the ported box is way more musical however the dynamic range does seem to be lower, but this could be my settings that I need to tweak. For my next experiment I am going to displace some of the air in the sealed and ported boxes and see how this changes the sound. I hope you can learn something from this post and can help me to learn more with your comments and suggestions!
  12. mendon mafia

    Orion HCCA 5000

    Payment sent
  13. mendon mafia

    Orion HCCA 5000

    Are these strappable? Bass knob included?