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keep_hope_alive last won the day on October 12

keep_hope_alive had the most liked content!

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About keep_hope_alive

  • Rank
    Acoustics Engineer
  • Birthday 08/21/1978


  • About me
    love audio in all forms, circuit designing, electronics in general.
  • Name
  • Location
    Quad Cities, IL
  • Occupation
    Acoustics Engineer / Electrical Engineer - consultant specification design engineer - i control noise and room acoustics and design electrical power systems.
  • Interests
    move electrons
  • Audio System Setup
    Alpine DVA-9861, Alpine PXA-H800, Audison LRx5.1k, Hertz MLK-165, Hertz ML3000

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  1. keep_hope_alive

    The despicable whine noise.

    I assume you have an external amplifier connected to the head unit, hence the use of the RCA ground loop filters. Noise can occur when the signal grounding path is broken or duplicated by a chassis grounding path. The duplicate path can occur if the amp is screwed to metal directly ( i mount them to wood to insulate them). Some amps do a better job of rejecting ground loops than others. Sometimes, signal grounds need to be added.
  2. Moving/changing RCA's can damage the internals of the Pioneer HU. This is a well known issue where the RCA shield connection fails inside the HU. You can see the fix for this by searching for "Pioneer RCA Grounding" in any search engine. If you get noise with the engine off, that is an internal issue. Most noise problems only occur when the engine is running. So it's an interesting clue. Your BitOne should not be allowed to be on when the source is off. Doing so will often result in noise. Make sure the BitOne and the amps all turn on/off with the head unit.
  3. keep_hope_alive

    Multi speaker install

    The manual for the Pyle PLRVST400 doesn't identify what zone the RCA outputs are for. https://www.pyleusa.com/media/custom/upload/PLRVST400.pdf You can test that to determine and then just label your zones accordingly (for example, Zone A may have to be the exterior if that is tied to the RCA output). Otherwise, the Kenwood KAC-6406 has high level inputs and, though not ideal, you can connect the amplified output from the Pyle to the high-level input on the Kenwood so zoning works as you intend.
  4. keep_hope_alive

    I need your help please...

    Interesting scenario. You can bypass the crossovers and run full range speakers. Your primary issue is identifying the wiring. Motorhomes are always a PITA because the wiring methods appear to be out of a comic book. Soldering and heat shrinking your connections to reuse factory wiring is a suitable approach. You'll need to start labeling them. To trace wiring like this, I use a DMM and some alligator clips to test for continuity (with speakers and crossovers disconnected). Once you've identified the wiring you can solder to bypass the crossovers so you have a direct path from the head unit to the new speakers.
  5. Never put crossovers inside the door - that space gets wet every time it rains and the crossovers will corrode and fail. The compromise is to put the crossovers on the surface of the door, between the metal and interior panel. Just look for a cavity created by the door panel and screw it to the door with small sheet metal screws (i prefer piercing over tapping). Instead of adding screws you can secure it with really good tape (like 3M waterproof double-sided tape).
  6. Agreed 100%. Excellent response here. I've built some and had luck. I did not tune below driver Fs so I cannot comment on the effect. I agree with having an efficient transition from the driver airspace into the T-Line. I built enclosure-coupled T-lines but put focus on a good transition.
  7. keep_hope_alive

    Radio turns on but no sound

    It is possible that the power to the JBL amplifier is somehow not provided when the car is running but is in ACC. You will want to measure voltage on the turn-on wire to the factory amp as well as amp power.
  8. keep_hope_alive

    Radio turns on but no sound

    Interesting issue. Normally, we would consider if the factory system included a factory amplifier that is now miswired. Did you purchase a vehicle harness so the factory wiring was not cut, or did you cut the factory harness off and make manual connections?
  9. you want to tap both left and right so you aren't missing audio information. most bass is center, but not all.
  10. keep_hope_alive

    Amp not Powering Subwoofer

    There are several items to check. #1 - check you don't have the coils wired out of phase - the sub wouldn't move if that was the case but you'd still meter 4 ohms. You can verify with a DMM and measure VAC output. #2 - make sure the head unit outputs are properly configured. The menu on the HU let's you assign the rear/sub outputs. I assume you have the outputs set to rear so the front and rear speakers work. #3 - the amp inputs are configurable so the sub channel can get the signal from the other 4 inputs (which it seems you need) so set it at 4ch.
  11. The mono amp only needs one input to work. You can split the single sub out on the HU into a pair of outputs with a Y adapter (such as single female to dual male at the amp). the front and rear (left and right) should go to the Rockville amp and you should power the stock speakers from that Rockville. They'll sound better than on the stock HU or the Jensen HU even though they are stock. Upgrading them may be a good future task.
  12. keep_hope_alive

    2011 Megane with poor radio signal

    possible the car has an FM antenna amplifier and that could have an issue or a blown fuse. has the previous owner done any wiring inside? if they messed around inside the vehicle wiring, they could have disconnected power to an external amplifier.
  13. in this case, the best bet is likely at the factory head unit or the factory amplifier (if external). find that and then obtain a pin-out schematic of the outputs (should be available from an online service manual - which may have a fee for a day or two of access). ideally, you'd just pull back insulation and solder to intercept the signal (instead of cutting anything).
  14. There are several options to fixing the stock sound systems and getting bass back. I've been using the JL Audio VX1000/5i for over a year (since August 2017) and i've used the preouts to fix the factory EQ. I finally made a video detailing the process. This method allows you to use an EQ and see what you're doing to correct for the response. Other videos describe using RTA software to see the audio signal in more detail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmHCnhsvfGo Hit me up with any questions.
  15. keep_hope_alive

    Ultra caps or lithium?

    alternators are slow. in order to provide more current they produce a mechanical load on the engine and the engine has to do more work to turn the alternator (which is affected by the belt as well). bigger alternators are no exception and require even more work to do the job. if your dimming is only at idle and not at 2500RPM then you may be exceeding the idle output of the alt, or it may be slow, or both. batteries are slow and don't really want to stay above their float voltage, so you're forcing them to stay there. ultracaps don't really care what voltage they are at and are stupid fast at reacting (charging or discharging) and they resist voltage changes in typical capacitor fashion. I'm happy with mine and have been for over 5 years. I haven't needed a larger alternator or second battery. I have a video on my YouTube channel talking about using ultracaps. Consider that hybrid cars are starting to use ultracaps for regenerative braking storage and quick power sourcing and do so in parallel with batteries. Even if you had lithium, you'd still get drop between the alt output and the battery float voltage.