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keep_hope_alive

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keep_hope_alive last won the day on August 10

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About keep_hope_alive

  • Rank
    Acoustics Engineer
  • Birthday 08/21/1978

MORE INFO

  • About me
    love audio in all forms, circuit designing, electronics in general.
  • Name
    Rich
  • Location
    Quad Cities, IL
  • Occupation
    Acoustics Engineer / Electrical Engineer - consultant specification design engineer - i control noise and room acoustics and design electrical power systems.
  • Interests
    move electrons
  • Audio System Setup
    Alpine DVA-9861, Alpine PXA-H800, Audison LRx5.1k, Hertz MLK-165, Hertz ML3000

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  1. sounds like the ignition wire isn't connected properly (red wire on radio). The battery constant (yellow wire on radio) will let the HU eject discs. Another idea is that the faceplate (if detachable) isn't fully seated or the connection to the faceplate is bad.
  2. The second image appears to identify the factory dash location has 8.5" of depth available and the Crutchfield list may identify that the factory radio itself is 6.929". You'll have to see what you actually have for depth. Sometimes, cutting plastic behind the dash is needed, I haven't taken this specific car apart. A forum for those cars may have more specific info.
  3. keep_hope_alive

    Help with speaker noise

    Saw your other thread and responded there.
  4. keep_hope_alive

    *cough*cough* big 3 *cough*

    The Big 3 reduces voltage drop due to current draw on the factory wiring. It does not increase the output current from the alternator which inevitably determines operating voltage. if dimming goes away when the engine RPM are around 2000 but appears at idle then the issue may be simply due to the system exceeding what the alt can provide. A volt meter is handy for this diagnosis. Factory grounds are usually undersized so those are the highest priority. The factory alt wire is likely 4awg but it will have a better insulation than most aftermarket wiring so the insulation may be thinner, thus making the wire seem smaller. OEM wire adheres to ASTM standards while aftermarket wire does not. A second run of 8awg from alt to battery can improve current delivery by reducing resistance but only if the connections are really high quality. There is usually more resistance in the connection than in the actual wire. Adding a second alt wire usually means compromising the protective boot, letting water and dirt get at the connection. All that is to say that adding a parallel connection cannot make the total resistance worse but gains may be minimal if not properly executed. Additionally, connections with resistance generate heat (because resistance dissipates heat and consumes power). Lastly, I recommend fusing the alt-batt wire at the battery, as any battery connection should be.
  5. Whine is typically from a ground loop or voltage potential on the signal ground relative to chassis. When you connect the sub amp RCA you create a loop, which may be why the issue is only when both amps are connected. The loop may exist because the amp grounds are tied together and the amps internally tie RCA ground to chassis ground or not (loop vs. floating) They may also exist due to damage in the RCA itself. I've seen RCA's made with incorrect solder connections. What if you feed the sub amp from the RCA outputs on the 4channel? You lose sub level control but it is worth a try to narrow down the loop location. What happens when you run a wire between the two amps' RCA shields? This shouldn't be a problem if everything is OK. You can also use a DMM to measure resistance from the RCA shield to amp/chassis ground in each amp, an also in the RCA shield to amp/chassis ground.
  6. If you want a prettier ATO fuse block, you can use marine products https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=cm_wl_huc_item and for high-current switched ignition, you can use larger relays https://www.amazon.com/TE-tyco-Current-Automotive-Relay/dp/B00OHRZ782 This allows you to move away from older glass fuses and install a modern ATO fuse block. I'm doing this on my 1966 MGB.
  7. Sounds like fun. I recommend the following: Run a power wire from the battery to the amp location. Put a fused distribution block in this location (MAXI fuses are handy) and send a fused power wire to the dash such as 10AWG with 30A is a nice option.From there, land this wire on an ATO fuse block. This gives you a new fused distribution block for landing other accessories. This will feed the head unit battery wire (yellow). Then another fused output will run through a relay to the radio ignition wire (red). The relay is powered from any ignition source in the truck (also fused). ATO fuse blocks are available locally: https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/fuse-and-accessories/cooper-bussmann-fuse-and-accessories/32322_0_0 I sketched a quick diagram for clarity.
  8. Thanks for the reply. I haven't seen power supplies with 8 AWG leads on a single +12V output, which drove my comment. While there is a single 12V rail, are you proposing combining all of the smaller (14-16awg) leads into a single connection? Should each lead be fused separately? https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-120-G2-1600-X1/dp/B00MMLUIE8
  9. Good Night! That's a ton of output! That's only $100? send a link!
  10. yea, some of the switching power supplies have come down in price. https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM4-100A-Converter-Battery/dp/B01ER3LH5W/ref=pd_sbs_23_1
  11. keep_hope_alive

    Help with amp and power plz

    first suspect is the ground connection. you need the ground wire securely bolted to the frame or chassis. that location should be bare metal with a proper ring terminal on the wire.
  12. you will not find a computer power supply with a 50A output. A 50A DC power supply costs hundreds of dollars. a subwoofer plate amp is a much better solution if high power is required. You can expect about 100W out of a PC power supply for an amp (at most).
  13. a stock radio cannot power subwoofers. even if the stock system had an amp for a stock subwoofer. an external amplifier is required to power subwoofers. this amp should have built-in high-level inputs and auto turn-on so you can interface with the factory radio. A dedicated power wire ran to the battery and fused at the battery is required for the amp. the amp needs to be compatible with the sub selection, but a monoblock amp that is 1 ohm stable should be fine. it helps to understand how the subs are wired (how many connections on each sub) and what the exact model number is. we're interested in the final impedance load the amp will see.
  14. keep_hope_alive

    Will not power on

    Most of the times I see issues like this it relates to the wiring connections themselves. best approach is to solder the connections and protect with heat shrink. another method is to use crimp connectors which requires the proper tool to crimp them. twisting wires then taping should be avoided as those connections are always suspect. any taping should be done with good electrical tape (3M Super 33+ is recommended). I suspect connections since the issue is sporadic.
  15. keep_hope_alive

    Wiring harness for 2007 Ford Focus

    the harness you buy plugs into the factory harness that used to connect to the factory radio. it does not plug into the Pioneer. you need to make connections between the new radio (Pioneer) and the harness. those wire colors are the same so matching them up is sufficient. when making connections, crimp connectors are ok, and need to be done with proper tools. solder and then heat shrink is awesome, but unlikely you'll have those tools. avoid just twisting and taping.
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