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blazian87

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About blazian87

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  • Birthday 03/22/1987

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    Los Angeles, CA
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    kick it

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  1. blazian87

    Port size ?

    We need more info. Aero or slot port? Diameter or width x height of port.. What tuning frequency you aiming for? What's the max dimensions you are willing to use? To answer your questions, yes smaller boxes require longer ports so you can play around with the numbers by making the box bigger or choosing a different diameter for the application and/or tuning higher. Yes, you can fold a port but that doesn't make it a T-line. T-line is just straight port all the way thru, no air space.
  2. You can kinda just upgrade along the way and test it as you add things to calculate whether it's enough juice or not. Start off by swapping out your stock battery with the biggest AGM you can fit and do the big 3. You have a pretty decent stock alt so I would see if it can handle it first with the load and if not, HO alt is next in line. No need to put extra batteries in the trunk unless you want to upgrade to bigger amps in the future. Otherwise, you're headed the right direction. If you already have the JL equipment, just use it. That's a classic setup right there. A lot of nostalgia that is worth keeping. I would've said go with the 2 1000/1's screw it but since you already have the 500/1's and you know what they're capable of, why not?
  3. blazian87

    Any Pioneer DEH-80PRS owners here?

    Love my 80prs. I have no need to replace it. The face plate is a bit flimsy tho so be careful pressing the buttons. First day I had it in my car, I kept playing around with all the buttons because I was trying to tune the active crossovers. Within an hour or so, I ended up breaking the left side knob handle off from hitting it back and forth so much. And then I found out I could do everything thru the remote! I was mind blown. Including all the other goodies in there that continue to surprise me. I don't even mind that I broke off the left side knob thing. If anything it looks unique now, I kinda like it. Sometimes I just use my right side knob and pull it backwards if i feel like doing it manually. If only I had read the manual, I would've knew to use the remote right away. But oh well, I don't care. It's totally worth it's price and more.
  4. A new headunit and custom box would make a world of a difference, yes. Do you have the mazda 3 hatchback or sedan?
  5. blazian87

    Recommend me a sub

    I used to have the same car. A single 12 ported does take up a good amount of space. I had a box about 15x15x28 I believe and even though I still had enough room for my needs, IDK how much your nephew is gonna need for his daily purposes. A 10 seems more practical but I would get to measuring and figure out how much he's gonna really need. Or alternatively you can seal off the cabin and trunk into a blowthrough setup with sub facing forward, which is more efficient actually and allow more trunk space as well. An infinite baffle setup is also a great space saver too, look into it. The Dayton HO is always my go to sub when it comes to small boxes and it's less than $200. It's more SQ oriented so if he wants big bass and don't mind a bigger box, there are many other great contenders for the price.
  6. blazian87

    The Amp Lab

    wow... gr8 guys.. if I ever need an amp fixed, I know who to call.
  7. Looking good my man.. you finally heading the right direction.. slowly but surely.. Great choices in equipment btw. Everything looks solid. Wait till you start tuning this beast. You're gonna sh1t yourself for real lol.
  8. Correct. The tweeter and mid are combined together through 1 channel but are crossed over to their designated frequency range after it is amplified, which is known as a passive setup. If you wanted to go active in the future, then it would require 4 channels total.
  9. blazian87

    Any Kodi users?

    Most of the sources don't work anymore. Only one I have working right now is Exodus. If your Exodus doesn't work, look for the updated version of it on google. Had to update it a few times already. It's not completely wiped out yet. I'm sure there's more that we don't know of. But yea I pay for Netflix now too.
  10. blazian87

    Coaxial vs component

    Yes, there can be such a thing as too much tweeters. You want to focus all your attention to the front stage before even touching the rears. Get a nice set of components and hook up a nice amp to it. Forget about rears until you feel like you're satisfied with your fronts and then add rear speakers as rear fill to fill the void. Many of us actually don't run rears at all as it distracts from the front stage.
  11. blazian87

    SQ Subwoofers

    That's a 10" B2 Ref. For t-lines there is no net volume. It's just straight port all the way through. Mines tuned at 28 hz. T-lines are supposed to be tuned close to the FS of the driver. With subs that have a higher FS, you can be tuned much higher than that and surprisingly hit all the lows without unloading.
  12. blazian87

    SQ Subwoofers

    @Accord90 Tons of great advice in this thread so far that need to be considered. Sealed boxes are not the be all end all of SQ enclosures. I would only go sealed if I absolutely had no choice and I had plenty of power on tap that I'm willing to spend. I guarantee you a single sub ported in the right enclosure with let's say an idmax, which is one of my all time favorites growing up, will sound way nicer than dual subs sealed with same power. If you're looking for ultimate SQ, you need to look into specialty enclosures like a Transmission Line aka T-line boxes. This allows to get the most out of your sub in SQ. You'll be able to get the full spectrum of music and be able to hit any note instantly. It can keep up with fast double bass with absolutely no struggle and can hit as low as you want with no SS filter. Very balanced sound and flat for daaayyss compared to the almighty sealed box. The main downside is that it takes up your entire trunk space so you can only fit like a single 10". Doesn't require much power to get going either but can easily take all the power you can give it. The most versatile box I've ever had. Like many have said, it has less to do with the brand of sub you buy than what your overall system is gonna sound like in the end result. With that said, idmax, dayton ho, and icon for sure should be on the top of your list to consider. I owned the Fi Q before and though I really enjoyed it and was very smooth sounding, it was just too bottom heavy and was hard to blend in with certain music. Only good for rap music or slow decaf type of music. here's a pic of a T-line that I own. It's my favorite sounding box by far.
  13. blazian87

    Should I get a 5 ch or 4 ch and mono?

    With certain brands you have to be careful about how they rate their amps. I would not trust Rockville's ratings... they're known to be overrated. CEA is only compliant under 4 ohm load. Everything else is BS and for marketing purposes only. If you look at any legit company that are actually honest about their ratings, they don't have a CEA rating. They don't need it. The amp dyno's and real world testing already speaks for itself. Some companies will go as far as underrate them to make them appear like you're getting way more power for your money but in reality it's in par with the other big boys. I am also not a fan of 5 channel for most applications. Too weak.
  14. I'm sure it's great. Not trying to bash. Many of these DSP's have a place of their own. Always good to recycle nice gear, that's for sure. I knew someone would bring this up..So from what I have heard from an inside source... They are assembled in Germany but made from China parts. I don't know how much of this is true but it shouldn't really matter because it all comes down to engineering. I'm a huge proponent of German engineering so don't take this the wrong way. I'm a big fan of Helix as well.
  15. They're all worthy in their own way. I like my PXA-H800 a lot but I would only get it if I already have an Alpine headunit. Helix Pro is overpriced for what it is IMO so I wouldn't get it unless you came across a great deal. The rockford DSR-1 and Dayton DSP is what I would look at for the absolute budget minded person. The JL TWK is like the in between at an attractive price point but I don't like it cuz it doesn't give you full control. As of right now if I were to spend money on a nice DSP I would go with the zapco z8 IV or V. Zapco is reasonably priced for what they offer IMO. They have a great track record and they are constantly innovating. Every DSP is made in China nowadays so choose based on what you're trying to get out of it. Rather than brand name. I would just starting saving your pennies right now...
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