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Joebobclark

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About Joebobclark

  • Rank
    Your Moms New Boyfriend
  • Birthday 03/22/1978

MORE INFO

  • Location
    Milford, NH
  • Interests
    -
  1. Lookin to get a B2, Big Bang 2400.1. In good condition would be great, will consider ones needing repair... Let me know! Thanks
  2. Joebobclark

    Amp repair shop?

    The AmpLab in Maine.. FAQ I got both my Twisted 4chs repaired from them, and Im about to send a Sundown 1500 up to them. Excellent quality work.
  3. Joebobclark

    Anyone have a SQ HDC motor that can get me some measurements?

    Yeah, I was thinking the same... First SQ stuff Ive really dealt with... so I dont have any idea of the difference between the lines... I picked up 2 SQ 3500's and got the 4 HDS's basically for free, so I am thinking of running them if I can build them up a little... Thanks for the replys!
  4. Joebobclark

    Anyone have a SQ HDC motor that can get me some measurements?

    Just trying to get an idea of the differences really... Getting ready to rebuild 4 HDS3's, trying to figure out if I can get them to HDC level or higher...
  5. Joebobclark

    Anyone have a SQ HDC motor that can get me some measurements?

    Not sure, didn't realize there was different version.... atleast with the HDS's... My HDS's have the SQ "V8" style baskets, so I guess the HDC3 not the new HDC3.1's
  6. Hey guys, Anyone have a HDC motor that can get me overall dimensions and gap specs (ID, OD and depth)? Trying to figure out how much different they are from the HDS3 motors I have... Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!
  7. Joebobclark

    FS : Kenwood double DIN DDX470

    I have a PPI DSP-88r I might trade... Used it for a few months, then upgraded to a 10 ch output unit... Let me know if your interested and I can get pics and stuff...
  8. Joebobclark

    DSP talk

    I have tried a few of the lower end DSPs trying to find a cost efficient solution.... My findings are what you would expect for the most part... "you get what you pay for" I have had the Soundstream Harmony and PPI DSP.88R and while they worked ok and had pretty good, easy to use interfaces with great selection of crossover and EQ settings, both introduced unwanted noise into the system. I tried multiple fixes, but never got either to be totally clean... Ive used the Fosgate 360.2 and 360.3, both where very nice and worked very well. Of note, the 360.2 did have some bluetooth connectivity problem. Two sub $300 DSPs, that I have used/am currently using, that are of excellent quality and functionality are the minidsp C-DSP 6x8 and the JFA Electronics DX5. The C-DSP 6x8 is an excellent feature filled unit, that I would put somewhere between the 360.2 and the 360.3. Has the full range of crossover and EQ settings and easy to understand user interface. I had used minidsp's products before in home theater applications, so I had to try out their car audio product when it came out. That C-DSP is in one of my buddies cars and he loves it just as much as I did... The JFA DX5 I decided to try out when my needs outgrew 8-channels of output. It is priced around $350 w/ the bluetooth adapter, around $250 without, and can be easily setup on the front panel display, or on an Android phone/tablet with the bluetooth. It has 4 channel input (full range and sub) with 10 channel output. I use it to crossover my tweeters HP, 4" fullranges BP, 6.5" door/kicks BP, 8" midbass BP and subs LP. All settings are available for any channel, making it very configurable. The EQ lacks in bands, but the band frequency is selectable making it usable in any configuration. A DX3 is also available if you dont need all those outputs.
  9. Joebobclark

    Cea 2006 compliant

    I would look into one of these... * NEW * CAB-1600.1 Amplifier - Car Audio Bargain This video shows what its capable of, and explains some of the testing ratings a little bit....
  10. Joebobclark

    Help Cutting Straight

    Shop BORA 2.25-in Clamp at Lowes.com I bought one of the Bora guides with the extension.... works great and is quick. Easy to to rip down 4x8 sheets, even the long length with the extension.... IMHO, you dont need the sliding piece, just the guide and extension.
  11. Thanks. I'll sell you this 4.600.... but it comes with the 4.500 and 2500, lol. I had them up for sale as a package at one point, Im going to need more than 2500 for these 15s, and I like all my equipment to match (i.e. why I painted all these) so they would have to go all together.
  12. Sounds about right... Mine is 38" wide, 30.5" high and 29" deep external dimensions... It was supposed to be 32" high, but I couldn't fit it at 29" deep and have the front be where I wanted it. Im 6ft, and like to drive relaxed, so I set the wall back further to allow my seat where I want it since this is my daily driver. Mine wont slide in/out because of the height, built it in the truck. It's doubled walled all around and double baffled, so internal after displacements leaves me right at 4 cu sealed and 11.5 cu ported. Easily could have gotten more airspace by building out over the wheel wells, or moving the front forward for more depth, just didn't really need it for my 2 15's. If you are going single walls with just bracing, should be able to get 5 sealed/13ish ported, I started with a bit over 20 cuft as well. I will tell you I wish I had given these 15's a little more on the sealed side. Having no TSPs for them, except what I could pull from them with my DATS, I went a bit conservative. I think I would have gotten more lows with a little larger sealed section, FS I pulled from the subs are around 32hz, but I also am not planning to run a ton of power to them. If you are going to be giving the Evils rated or higher power, better to keep the sealed side smaller for control. I built my ports at 200 sqin (20x10), tuned to 46-47 on the daily, and 53-54 for SPL. I haven't really played around with it yet, but I figured that would be my maximum port area and I could shrink it down if need. Metered the daily port, it was peaking at 36hz, did a 144.7 with a very conservative "by ear tune". Will have it back together tomorrow, and get it tuned with my o-scope. Hopefully, play around with it Saturday and see where my peaks are for both ports and get a meter on it at full power....
  13. Put some time into the truck this weekend... Little snakeskin vinyl for the front, to match my headliner (I redid it from the blue skulls to a black snakeskin when I started doing copper color in the truck instead of blue lol) and made some side filler/braces to seal up the wall. 0723162149_HDR by Joebobclark, on Flickr Painted the inside of the box white and added some leds inside (will post pics once they are powered up). Painted the sides of the box and braces black so you cant see them through the windows.. 0724161856_HDR by Joebobclark, on Flickr Made my front trim panels, still need to make the lower one to go around the 8's, but that one is going to be a pain in the @ss... 0724161857_HDR by Joebobclark, on Flickr Trim panels carpeted up and installed, port painted a copper/orange color... 0724162031 by Joebobclark, on Flickr And started on an amp rack idea... not sure if I like it or not yet, will see... 0724162136 by Joebobclark, on Flickr Thanks for looking!
  14. [quote name='CRXBMPN']Hows this look [IMG]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f242/crxbmpn/20160718_083848_zpsbkqwafi9.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE] I think thats the one I have. I haven't broken one yet, but @beak81champ is right, if the store isn't close by, I'd grab an extra just in case... I hate when I have to stop in the middle of a project because something simple and inexpensive broke and I dont have another on hand....
  15. Spiral bit works the best in my opinion... Doesnt really matter if its up cut or down cut for speaker holes, it just pushes the the dust created in that direction, up or down. I have the Diablo brand from HD or Lowes, cant remember, but its been good to me. Looks like you have a 3/4" or 1/2" round over bit in there now, Id pick up which ever one thats not. Those are the ones I use 99% of the time, Spiral Cut, 1/2" and 3/4" round overs. Only other I would look at would be a 1" flush trim bit, its has the ball bearing on the end that you can use to trim two pieces exactly the same. Gonna guess that that router takes 1/4" shank bits. only the really big ones take 1/2" shank. That router doesnt have a plunge base, but for speaker holes you can manually plunge the bit or drill a starting hole to place the bit in.
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