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dragonrage

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About dragonrage

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    CarAudio.com Elite
  • Birthday 05/23/1985

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  • Location
    Massachusetts
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    spend money
  1. dragonrage

    Starting new business

    Don't start a car audio business, at home or otherwise. Car audio is dead, guys. We still like it, but VERY few other people still do. Stock systems have gotten more than good enough for 99.9% of people. And it doesn't even make you decent money anyway.
  2. dragonrage

    Why don't subwoofers utilize phase plugs?

    Yeah, they have very little effect on larger waveforms (lower frequencies) because they are TINY compared to bass waveforms. Midrange/treble waveforms are much smaller, much more directional, and much more affected by reflections and phasing issues.
  3. Bump. Helix amp is sold. Still have the a/d/s 830x and Eclipse 3620. Subs in link @ top still available, and will be listing some 6-7" woofers and some tweeters in the next few days (will be in a different thread). a/d/s amp now $200 shipped
  4. dragonrage

    Amp install questions

    You'll want a good battery. Deka Intimidator. Oversized from stock size if you can fit it. The bigger the better. Group 31 if you can. You may or may not need a new alternator. If you want to really push those amps to the limit, you probably will. A good - and bigger - battery may or may not be enough. You can do a second battery if you want, keeping the stock one under the hood and a bigger one in the back. If you do a second battery/battery location, you want to use a minimum of 0 AWG wire. If you don't, 4 gauge will work. If you want to be able to upgrade amps to even more power later and/or a battery in the back later, use the 0 gauge now. Personally I say big battery under the hood and alt if necessary. I know you won't have much space back there but I'm not ever sure I've really checked a New Edge out up close all that much.
  5. dragonrage

    hopefully someone has an easy fix for me

    Rears aren't necessary without rear passengers. If you want them anyway, run them from the deck. Also, unless you have passengers listening to them, cut off/down the treble from your rear speakers from 10kHz down (even lower might be helpful). Keep the volume of the rears as low as possible so they are only just audible. Most of the music should come from the front. Also keep in mind the more power you run, the more there's a tradeoff between output and low frequency extension. The more output you want, the higher you need the highpass filter on the speakers to be for them to be able to handle what you're asking. If you want to actually run that 160W to just about any front speaker, you will need to highpass at like 100+Hz, or you WILL be blowing speakers if your music has bass (and I don't mean bass test music only, either). With lower powers 60-80Hz should be attainable. Some people claim to be running 400w to their fronts. For those using ANY speaker in stock locations, that's BS - they may have an amp capable of 400w, but they have probably never even peaked over 100W to them. My Helix Dark Blue 4 at 60WRMS could fry my Rainbow Profi Kick 6.5" woofers EASILY highpassed at 80Hz. It could also do the same for the Dayton RS180-4s. Point of this paragraph: Be careful if you're trying to run that 160W to your fronts. Edit to note: I suppose it would probably be more like 80-100W at 4 ohms, but still, that can blow most speakers, so be careful.
  6. dragonrage

    To snag, or not to snag..

    I did my first recone a few months ago myself, for a subwoofer that had been sitting around dead for like 2 years.. lol
  7. dragonrage

    To snag, or not to snag..

    I vote no. I've always been the type to try and fix anything - and I CAN fix a lot of things. But it doesn't mean I want to spend all of my time fixing stuff - a lot of it just ends up in the basement/garage for fixing at some later date that is likely never going to come. Just buy a working sub and be happy IMO.
  8. dragonrage

    How to bridge a 4 channel amp.

    for most 4ch amps yes you can bridge 1+2 and you can bridge 3+4, making most of those amps "2/3/4" channel amps. You'll need to put the coils of your sub in series for 4 ohms. You can use the 2 other channels for front speakers or something. As for how to accomplish it, that can vary per amp. Some will connect the negatives, flip a switch, and use the two positives for the speaker output. Some will connect L ch - to R ch + and use the other two for speakers. Some will connect L + to R - and use the other 2 for speakers. etc. Best to look in the amp's manual if it's not silk screened on the amp how to do it.
  9. dragonrage

    Give me a yes or no, maybe why...

    I found the older Type R's very average, but Alpine claims to be using a fairly advanced motor in them these days. Spec-wise at least the newer ones are pretty good. Haven't installed any of them myself though. I also agree that Rockford Amps are very good and their subs I don't like. They are more SPL than SQ. I prefer more SQ-oriented myself. They are not at the top of the SPL charts or anything, either.
  10. dragonrage

    speaker design recommendation

    Try some designs from Zaph|Audio. For your idea, you should port for the woofers. How you use the woofers depends mainly on crossover. And crossover depends on how you want to use the woofers. Easiest to just use a Zaph or similar design. And if you want the simplest crossover possible then use coated paper cone woofers. Or at least avoid metal cones. Look through his woofer comparisons and see what he rates as ease of use and comments... or go and look at his graphs and look at what extends the furthest the flattest for FR and has the lowest distortion and smooth CSD while still having the right efficiency, power handling, and general build quality you need. Otherwise you can use something like http://www.minidsp.com to build an active crossover setup, or use it or something similar (Behringer DCX2496 is the pro audio solution on the cheap). But then you need external amps and stuff. Could use an auto-eq like the Behringer DEQ2496 can do or a receiver with Audyssey MultEQ XT (wouldn't recommend less than the XT for this - look to mid-end Denon or Onkyo and I much prefer Denon), etc. Yes you can build a passive network with harder to use speakers but it gets quite difficult to do well with difficult drivers.
  11. dragonrage

    Planet Audio

    They aren't good anymore. Some, like the sub amp I just sold, used to be pretty good. The one I just sold is early 2000s, made in the USA, and pretty beefy. But I wouldn't generally buy a new Planet Audio amp, no. They got bought out, a quick Google search shows they are now equivalent to Boss Audio, which has always been terrible. RF > Alpine >> Kenwood >>>> Planet Audio/Boss/Pyramid/Pyle/etc.
  12. dragonrage

    quick n easy DIY circle jig

    I made an aluminum copy of the Jasper personally My aluminum circle guide - DIYMA Car Audio Forum (hope the external link is okay..) The handle is a good idea. I do often use my jig with one hand on the router and one hand on the opposite side of the jig for stabilization. A handle would make it a bit more comfortable.
  13. Planet Audio P1250D is sold. Would update the OP to reflect such if I could.
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