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Atimm693

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About Atimm693

  • Rank
    Shadetree Mechanic
  • Birthday 06/04/1993

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  • Location
    Up the down escalator
  • Interests
    car audio
  1. I'm gonna change up the setup in my car. The two little Powerbass 10s have served their purpose but I'm looking for a little more. I've had a DD 3512C sitting around for awhile now, might as well do something with it. I want to make a ported box with the baffle angled at 45*, sub pointed to the rear and upward. The angled baffle pretty much limits port placement to the side. Has anyone tried subs back or up and port to the side in a wagon or SUV? I haven't mocked it up in Sketchup or even started the design, I'd like to see if anyone has tried this orientation first.
  2. Atimm693

    TC9 10" Basket

    Yep. Unless you can beat 23 dollars shipped, I'll grab the one on Ebay. Thanks for the help everyone. Been out of the loop for awhile, but I want to make a monster 10 out of this motor.
  3. This may be a long shot, but I'm looking for a 10" basket for an older Orion HCCA TC9 motor. Twin slug motor, it has a 4 spoke 15" basket right now that I would trade.
  4. If funds are a little tight you could use one of the small 12v batteries, and run a wire with a diode in it to the car battery. You could also use a relay triggered by the ignition to complete the circuit.
  5. Atimm693

    Subs Suddenly Not Hitting as Hard PLEASE HELP

    You may have a bad RCA cable that is only working half the time. Play some music, unplug them one at a time while it is playing. If the sound does not change when one is unplugged one of them isn't working. Sometimes bass is mono and this won't apply.. I prefer to run my sub amp off front or rear signal on the HU and let the amp do the filtering, instead of the sub. I noticed you said your amp has two sets of inputs, I'm assuming front and rear if it's a 4 channel amp. Some amps need a signal on front and rear to make full power... Others have a setting for just front input or both. Check it out and see what you find. If it's only a two channel make sure they are both in the input and not output.
  6. The subs are a little cheaper on Amazon. Amazon.com: Alpine SWR-12D4 Type-R 12" Subwoofer with Dual 4-ohm Voice Coils: Car Electronics I wouldn't expect much from that box. That's not much port area for 2 12's.. It'll probably work okay but a custom will sound much better. What are you gonna do for wiring? Gonna need 1/0 for that much power. I have always had good luck with Knukonceptz. Even there lower lines are excellent quality. I would also plan on at least doing the Big 3 for your car's electrical. Stock electrical won't support that power.
  7. Atimm693

    SD-2 8 ported or SD-2 sealed?

    If you have the space you might consider going with 10's.. You will have a greater range of options and they might handle the power a little better. Either way, I got great output from an L5 and Comp 8 in around .8 cubes ported, on 250-400 watts. I didn't notice a huge difference when I upgraded to a 12" D3.
  8. They do make coil spreaders that go between the coils on the spring and spread them out a little. Might give 1-2" of ride height. If they make bags that fit your car easily, you don't have to install a compressor and tank. Just run a line with a shrader valve on the end of it from the bags to under the bumper or to the trunk... Pump them up once a week or so. This is pretty common for 1/2 ton pickups that needs a little extra support so they don't squat so bad when loaded down. I'm sure you could also have some strut spacers made if the rear struts are like most vehicles. They're just a block of aluminum usually that moves the strut down and lifts the rear of the car. But be weary as it will change the alignment on the rear and it might wear tires or handle funny. IIRC there is about 20lbs per sheet of weight savings with Birch plywood. I don't think the juice would be worth the squeeze to make a whole new box and save 50lbs.
  9. Not spontaneously, but it will shorten it's lifespan and it's hard on the electrical systems in the car. Producing that voltage draws huge current from alternator. They are cause and effect.
  10. Yes that is the what the amplifier is producing. But indirectly it's also what the alternator is producing since it's fueling the amplifier.
  11. That's what amplifiers do and why they require so much current. Vehicles make low voltage with high amperage, the amp will convert that into a variable music signal that is higher in voltage usually but lower in amperage. Volts*Amps=Watts. 14v at 100 amps is 1400 watts, and 100v and 14 amps is also 1400 watts. Another reason his voltage is so high is because it is a **** ton of power that will take over 200 amps from the vehicle to produce... Good explanation. I always get those two mixed up.
  12. Atimm693

    jl 1000 shuts down

    Check the ground for the amp. Has to be clean metal right to the body of the car... You might have to experiment if your car is a unibody. If you were running the sub hard enough to tear the surround, I would suspect that the coil may be burned also. I had a Diamond D3 that was on it's way out and would overheat/shut down my amp until it finally quit. An easy test is to pull the sub out of the box and smell it... If it smells burnt that is more than likely the issue. You can hook a multimeter to the voice coils and check the resistance or have a shop do it for you.
  13. Four 4 ohm subs in series is a 1 ohm load... Unless they are dual voice coil. Voltage is calculated with the resistance that the amp sees. Which in your case is .5 ohm.
  14. Atimm693

    Stiff subs or unrealistic expectations?

    Sounds to me that you had a sub wired opposite of the other. When they are backwards they fight each other and the result is little or no output. I've done it a couple of times.
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