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About lubetek

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    Senior VIP Member
  • Birthday 12/02/1972


  • Location
    Riverside, California

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  1. Just fantastic work man. Good job! I can't wait to see this finished.
  2. Yeah you can build a box pretty cheap as long as you have the tools to do it. Clamps, table saw or circular hand saw, drill etc. The cost of MDF is pretty cheap. I can build a ported enclosure that size for under $40 + my time. Hell I usually have enough wood in my workshop to build things that pop into my head without even going to the hardware store. I have one of those Kicker CompR 12" 2 ohm subwoofers. Bought it for my other car and never used it until recently i decided to put it in my Lexus only to discover it sucks. Mine came in a kicker vented enclosure and sitting in my trunk hooked up to a Fosgate R1200.1 (gain set by multimeter) and I was so disappointed. I pulled it out later that week and put my SS RL-p 15 in and won't look back. My point is I don't place much faith in Kicker products these days.
  3. lubetek

    Active or Passive Setup

    I prefer passive myself.
  4. lubetek

    >> S.O.S << SUBWOOFER SETTINGS!!!???

    Do it yourself next time. Might take longer but at least you know the quality of the work done...when you do the work. If they fed off your speaker lines for the sub amp then that might explain the high gain. If it sounds good I'd leave it alone.
  5. lubetek

    What brands do people like for subwoofer?

    For home: Hsu Research and Velodyne For cars: SoundSplinter
  6. Love this diss track and my sub hits those lows nicely. I'm running a SS RL-p 15d2
  7. lubetek

    any recommendation for 5.25 comps?

    So I decided on 6.5" CDT Audio ES-62AS 15 year anniversary. I'm super excited even though I have to now modify the speaker openings.
  8. lubetek

    any recommendation for 5.25 comps?

    I think I'm just going to say F it and modify my door panels to hold 6.5. I also think I'm just going to spend the money and buy another set of CDT ES speakers. At least I know I'll love them. I really wanted to try something different but as nice as those Infinity Perfects look I have read some poor comments on them from buyers and I think I will skip them. I have owned Kappas in the past but didn't like them. Lack of midrange kinda killed it for me but those were $149 a set (2 sets of 6.5") so maybe spending more money on higher end Infinity speakers is the better way to go but I'd hate to buy these Perfects and discover they don't sound as good as what I'm used to with CDT.
  9. lubetek

    any recommendation for 5.25 comps?

    I own their upstage kit which adds two additional tweeters to the front dash. I think it might be the same thing you are talking about. I know they have 3-way systems as well (woofer, mid and tweet) but I have no spot to place the mids so i don't see that working too well. I have these in my Hyundai: CDT ES-620 and CDT UP224 upstage kit I love the detailed and clear sound of CDT. I also love that they can handle a lot of power. Currently I own the following CDT speakers: CDT ES-620 6.5" comps CDT Audio M6+ 6.5" 240 Watt Mid-Bass/Sub-Bass Drivers CDT Audio CL-51A 5.25" comps CDT Audio UP224 I was thinking about trying out some Infinity Perfects 500 or 600 (But if I go 6.5" I will have to modify the opening to fit. I suppose I can do that if I keep in mind I will have to buy a cheap set of 6.5" to toss in if I sell the car.)
  10. Been awhile. I normally just work with current audio equipment I own or buy brands that I trust. I'm a big CDT Audio speaker fan. Been running sets of their speakers since 2005. I have 3 sets of their comps. These speakers have been fantastic over the years but now I need 5.25 comps instead of 6.5 and I wouldn't mind trying something new. If all else fails I will just order some more CDT's but we'll see. Okay so I need two sets of 5.25 comps for my 99 Lexus LS400. These will be installed in each door. I want to stick with 5.25" because that is the factory size and when I decide to sell the car I want to put all of the original audio equipment back in. So no; I do not want to modify the door openings to allow a larger speaker. The amp that I will use is my trusty Diamond Audio D600.4 ( 90 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) ) My budget is not set in stone but I would love to pay no more than $500-600 total for both sets. I'm flexible though. I want SQ over SPL but I like my music loud and clean. These will be paired with one of my subs but I have not made a decision yet. I have a couple of 10's a 12 and a 15 to choose from. I'm tempted to use my SoundSplinter RL-p 15 but I may go with a 10 or 12 instead to save space. Also I am not interested in Active setup. I prefer passive. I know I know...active is awesome...still not interested though. Any recommendations? God it's been so long since I've looked into current comps. I like quite a few brands but would like some opinions if you don't mind. Thanks! Oh and ignore the signature below. I still own all of that equipment except for the deck but it's all in other cars now. I own 3 cars and a truck so lots of audio gear.
  11. Thanks guys. Normally I would have pulled out the multi-meter but with amp behind the dash it is a chore so I thought I'd ask first. I'll drop it down this weekend and use my gold ol ear. It's not like I haven't done that before. lol
  12. Yes it is a small amp. I have other larger amps. I have amps that I'm not using. Here is the deal; This is for my weekend ride, a 1965 Ford F100 with literally 1/2" under the bench seat, a gas tank behind the seat and a factory air conditioner that takes up half the room between the center of the seat and dash leaving me with 9 inches of free space on the floor which is where my compact sub sits. I have no room for almost any normal sized amp or sub. So I needed an amp that would fit under the dash. Hence 'micro' amp. That said this micro amp puts out a good amount of power. I can't see that as being an issue. Here is this amp on the dyno: (this is what sold me on it) I thought I was gain matching the amp to hu since the hu puts out 4 volts from the preouts and I set the amps input sensitivity to 4 volts. My question really is would setting the amp to a lower input sensitivity voltage provide more output at a lower volume from the hu without hurting the amp?
  13. Hey it's been a very long time since Ive been on this forum. I've pretty much have had no issues to date with any of my audio builds until now. I recently put a new system in one of my vehicles and the amp in question is a Kenwood KAC-M3004 running bridged to my component speakers. My head unit is the JVC KD-R988BTS This head unit claims 4 volt preouts. So since the preouts are pushing 4 volts (according to JVC) I set the 'input sensitivity' of the Kenwood amp to {4} for both input sensitivity knobs. They run from 5 minimum to 0.2 max. My thought was since my headunit does 4 volts that I should set the amp to 4 volts. What this provides is very low output when increasing the volume on the headunit until I reach 32 to 35 on the volume, the max is 35. It sounds great but I'm not used to having to almost completely max out the volume. I am planning on playing with the amp input sensitivity some as I figure this is the amps gain adjustment. This amp bridged should be putting out around 150 watts rms per channel and from testing I have seen online it actually puts that out and then some, but I would think it should get louder lower on the volume dial. This amp does not have a gain dial per say which is what I'm used to but input sensitivity is the same thing as far as I know. Is this normal? Shouldn't I be running the gains at 4v since my headunit puts out 4v from the preouts? Will it hurt the amp at all to say run the gains at 2 or 3 volts to make the amp work harder and allow the headunit to get louder at a lower volume? I mean I literally have to turn the volume up to 33, 34 or 35 to get the sound output I want. It's **** clean at this volume but I would prefer to have the volume at say 25 to get the output I'm now getting at 34. All of my past amps were easy to set up but this one is bugging me. I have other audio systems in my other cars but this one is new which I put together last weekend to add some decent sound to my 65 Ford. Any input is welcome and if you made it this far...thanks for taking the time. Oh I should add that I plan to pull out the multimeter this weekend and test the volts at the amp but I have never done that before when bridging the amp. I'll figure it out though.