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phantom240

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About phantom240

  • Rank
    ALL YOUR INTERNETZ
  • Birthday 01/06/1988

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  • Location
    Southeast Louisiana
  • Interests
    tweak my car and stereo

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  1. phantom240

    I give in. I'll get a head unit. Wanna help?

    As someone who has plenty of Kenwood HU's, I'd advise you not to go with the DNX694. Kenwood units always seem to be buggy as hell in my experience.
  2. phantom240

    PA Driver Suggestions. Open to anything.

    If you want money for sound, a Speed3 is one of the worst cars to do it with... fuggin money pits.
  3. phantom240

    Shh Very Quiet... How do I get a quiet car

    Traverse, as in Chevy Traverse? If so, RIP. You might drop a couple dB, but let's be real, a family hauler (van) is absolutely not going to be whisper quiet due to the massive amounts of glass, which is an incredibly poor sound insulator. Filling gaps between the fender and door will help block some airflow and thus noise. CLD won't do you too much good, but a layer on the roof skin will reduce rain noise drastically. MLV on the doors and floors will kill some of the drone. Aside from that, not much to do.
  4. phantom240

    JAD800.4 and bridging

    As a last ditch effort to try to get some volume out of my ID CTX65CS components, I decided to bridge my JAD800.4 to run just the front stage. I connected the speakers as shown in the owner's manual, set the channel to 2ch, and was advised to split the RCAs and feed both front channels on the amp with one channel from the radio, and the same for the rear. Well, turns out one of my RCA splitters must have had a short in it, because when I powered up the amp, it freaked the f**k out for a couple seconds before I could shut it off. Massive popping and sounded like a crappy 80s synth at earsplitting volume. Blew both of the (new) front tweeters. FML. checked my wiring, removed the splitters and fed just one input on each side of the amp, and figured out one of the splitters is faulty. However, with the amp switched to 2ch, it won't fade properly. Using just one RCA, I moved it to each input and got output from both front speakers. Yes, I have it bridged correctly, this isn't my first rodeo. When I switch to 4ch, I get proper channel separation. The owner's manual doesn't say anything about the 2ch/3ch/4ch switch on the input side, but it seems to be pretty counter-intuitive. Anyone have any insight on what the hell is going on? Also, I saw that it's rated at 400rms bridged at 4 ohms... I know there's no kill like overkill, but this sounds absolutely silly to me for running a pair of 6.5 components up front.
  5. phantom240

    anyone know witch wire is positive/negative

    Typically, stripe means negative. However, it's a complete crapshoot if some jerkoff wired it.
  6. phantom240

    Recommend some mids

    Those Exodus units look stout!
  7. phantom240

    Recommend some mids

    Depth is no issue. Going in the doors of an '02 Avalanche. I've got probably 5" or better to work with. Not sure I'm cool with buying on FB unless I can meet in person.
  8. phantom240

    Recommend some mids

    Getting really frustrated. Had to replace font stage and amp. Completely unsatisfied with what I've got now. Front tweeters sound great, rear fill is... filling. But the front mids are atrocious. They sound flat and lifeless, and I have to send gobs of power at them to get any decent response below 300hz, but even then they don't sound convincing. My old JBL component set sounded like a rich symphony, while these... meh. So I'm looking for recommendations for a good set of 4 ohm mids capable of 80+RMS under $200, and would like some half decent low end extension because the kick drums on my current mids are ANEMIC. Currently running a brand new set of 6.75" ID CTX65CS (crossed 100hz -18dB, any lower or less aggressive they get gross) components up front, some JBL 2 way coax in the rear (120hz -18dB), powered by a JAD800.4 installed and gains set this evening.
  9. Alright, recently I've been having a slew of issues regarding my stereo setup in my truck. After attempting to track down a crackle at high volume, a tweeter giving up the ghost in the front components, and then my highs amp having a stroke, I'm left scratching my head as to where to go from here. I ordered new front components, since the tweeters to replace the dead one are, like the component set itself, discontinued and no old stock available. A few days before getting around to installing them, I noticed my highs amp would cut out for two to three seconds at high volume, then work for a few seconds, then cut out again back and forth like that. The weekend came around and I decided to look into it (I don't drive my truck except on weekends because I have a company work van), since I moved my crossovers and thought maybe a window or regulator had pinched a wire coming from a crossover. Turns out everything was golden, so I installed the new components, ohming out all of the stuff that was coming out of the doors. After finding nothing out of the ordinary, I fired up the system and it worked properly for a few moments, then back to flip flopping between protect and operational. Disconnected all the speaker wires and power from the amp, let it sit, connected power and powered it on. Again, going in and out of protect. So yeah, bad amp as well. SO My setup in my 2002 Avalanche is currently KDC-X500 HU CTX65CS front stage GTO629 rear fill 2x 43CVR124 wired to 1 ohm, approx 1.1 cubes each sealed SAZ-1000D sub amp KTP-445U highs amp (insert sad trombone sound here) Not exactly ballin at the moment, I decided to replace my dodgy Zapco ST-4D with an NVX JAD800.4 based upon its dyno results, and seemingly decent build quality. The low price didn't hurt either. I noticed that not only does the crossover section have a multiplier, but there's also a third position for bandpass mode. Could I use this amp to do a halfassed active 2 way front stage, by bandpassing the woofers and highpassing the tweeters each on their own channel? Would this net me any benefit? One issue I had with my last setup was that it wasn't quite loud enough. If my understanding is correct, going active allows more power to go to each speaker by powering a smaller bandwidth, is this pretty much the jist of things? Pretty sure the ID components can't withstand that kind of power, but I could always move them to the rear and build a more sturdy set for the front using some pro audio drivers. Side note: I'm frankly astonished that my rear fill hasn't died yet, given that they were on roughly the same power as the front stage, and the drivers seem much less capable than the old components.
  10. phantom240

    Amp protection: What is DC protection?

    Hmm well I can scratch that off my list then. Well, shit. I really don't wanna send this thing out for repair, but driver circuits on class D amps requires equipment I don't have access to.
  11. phantom240

    Amp protection: What is DC protection?

    And DC in the speakers would be caused by a failing MOSFET?
  12. phantom240

    Amp protection: What is DC protection?

    lol. So if I'm understanding correctly, DC protection would come into play in the event a MOSFET, or reed switch, gets stuck in the closed position, correct? I'm trying to figure out why my amp is shitting itself going between operational and protect in three second or so intervals, and I know it isn't thermal because it was only 75 degrees according to my infrared thermometer. It wasn't a shorted speaker, as I disconnected them all in my attempts to find the problem. With the amp completely disconnected, all my channels are reading around 4.75k ohms. And there's nothing obviously damaged on the board.
  13. phantom240

    Amp protection: What is DC protection?

    Maybe I'm not as smart as I thought I was, but man, that went over my head like a 747.
  14. phantom240

    Speakers cut out for 3 seconds

    Amp might be dying. After playing for a couple minutes, my Zapco would do the same thing. Now it constantly plays three seconds on, three seconds in protect, back and forth like that.
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