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T3mpest

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T3mpest last won the day on April 24 2010

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About T3mpest

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  1. T3mpest

    Pics team 15 vs nsv3 15

    I have a nsv3 in my living room floor and it's a big freaking magnet. The team woofer must be crazy looking in person.. That being said, the nsv3 is already "too heavy" for me. Even mounting it with 2 people I've about broken fingers trying to flush mount that SOB. My DSS tridents are a breeze in comparison, and that's still a "heavy" subwoofer.
  2. T3mpest

    Why is the ms8 discontinued?

    market for processors has always been small. ms8 doesn't appeal to the hardcore tuning crowd who want to do it themselves and the casuals don't see the point in having a processor to begin with. It has done alright in sales I'm sure, but probably not compared to other JBL products and they have a lot in R&D into this thing. I like mine for the most part, but I do miss being able to tune things myself.
  3. Port orientation wont' matter too much. Closer to the walls might lower tuning a bit and isn't likely to choke the port. Do the subwoofer baskets clear the port like that? Seems like subs with larger mounting depth wouldnt' fit in that. Also you don't want the subs firing directly into the port. You want the subs to pressurize the box and the airmass of the box to pressurize the port. Having the subs inside the port can lead to them unloading and weird pressure issues, sometimes resulting in ripped cones, torn surrounds, or at least greatly reduced mechanical powerhandling. I prefer subs back in most vehicles to port up. Only time I go sub up is when I'm trying to maximize cone area for a daily beater spl/demo style car. I find it often doesn't sound as musical as sub back as response usually gets pretty bad on higher bass notes. In loud 150+ cars it's easier to make a roof support that kind of pressure as opposed to a hatch though. Basically under 150db and if SQ is of any priority, I usually go rear firing. If maximizing cone area is the goal, SPL is primary concern, then I go sub up. edit: Sub up works great in hatches and pretty well in most extended cabs trucks too. SUV'sis where I follow the guideline above.
  4. what dimension are you working with? Port side vs sub side usually isn't the same thing. The port will mostly be doing lower bass, so the direction it faces usually isnt' as important. Odds are the bass from 40hz and up is what got better with the sub rear firing. Other than that, if you have lots of width, which in a van you should, I'd do side firing areos so you don't have to bend them. That being said, you could also do a slot port and make everything rear firing you wanted as well. Since space isn't at a premium, that's honestly the route I'd take. It's easier to get the right amount of port area with a slot port and it's cheaper to make overall s 1 sheet will make a whole box usually, including port walls.
  5. Only at very low SPL levels. Much over 100 watts and the port isn't doing it's job anymore. It should be tuned in the mid 30's somewhere, but the port is so small it can't move much air. It's about the same amount of port as a 4inch aero. Honestly, it'd work better with a 10 or even an 8. For a low power 12 though it's better than nothing, but not ideal. Most ports have turns because once you have enough port area to match the subs displacement capabiltiies, the port has to be longer to maintain the same tuning. Ideally ports would be have adequate port areas without turns, but that often wont' fit in a box that fits in the car.
  6. T3mpest

    How do you go all out?

    Use the stock crossover if neede. Out of all the things the ms-8 can do, crossover is probably the least important. That also being said, unless you listen to alot of acoustic live stuff, you could also skip the rear channels. The out of mix rear fill really only helps on that kind of stuff in my experience and often straight fails on elecronic and rap, as most of the out of phase stuff goes way out of phase and simply makes the rears really loud for a few seconds lol.
  7. T3mpest

    Underground wow subs

    The main thing, and I think Mlstrass tried to allude to this is that your spending A LOT of money on this for diminishing returns for what your getting. 2 12's 2 15's etc are only going to get so loud no matter how ****** the subwoofer.. 2 "nice" subs like your N3's or HDC4's something like that, lets say they do a 152. Even if you step up to a team sundown or some other mega priced subwoofer, your really only getting another 1000ish watts of continuous powerhandling and the cone area is identical. The main gain youd' see will be on burps that you really don't care much about. At the end of the day, any kid with a wall and 4 $300 15's on a single 8k will likely be just as loud as you contiously, or even louder. The kind of power you plan on running to 2 subs is more than any sub is going to like. The gains will be minimal as your well into diminishing returns in every area. At some point when you want "louder" cone area, extra coils and power ALL have to go hand in hand.. You can't just keep adding power and making good gains. Basically, I just don't want to see you get hella electrical, super expensive subwoofer and then blow the woofers trying to get more out them than is really possible. You have to reevaluate your goals and figure out what's actually worth it. If you really want 2 15's in that car and want the loudest thing possible, you can go the way your planning. Just realize your spending 3x the money to get that last 5% of performance that will sound about the same to the ear. Your going to have enough money in the car to do a 160 and be stuck in the low 50's daily due to the platform choice. If the n3's aren't loud enough, no amount of power or new sub will fix it. My next build in my SUV is going to be using some NSV3's.. Once I get used to that and want louder it WILL be walled. Simply due to that facts above. Sure I could go up to teams and get 1-2db louder, maybe 3 if I doubled up electrical again, but that's a lot more investment for litle gain. Walling it allows me 4x the box size, 2-3x the cone area and firing into 1/5 the original space. We always say "it's all the install" as bassheads, part of the learning curve is figuring out what this really means.. In our case cheaper gear in a wall beats megabucks put into a trunk lol.
  8. T3mpest

    Newbie question, is this amount of noise normal?

    My comment earlier I couldn't watch the video, wasnt' showing up on the phone.. After watching I don't think that is air noise. Those cones are literally barely moving and its higher frequencies even where the air wouldn't be making as much chuffing noise.. Those woofers honestly sound damaged.
  9. T3mpest

    Newbie question, is this amount of noise normal?

    yeah no speaker practically will be quiet at full excurion free air. You won't hear that when the subwoofer is mounted in the box, not only because of the noise being inside the box, but the volume of the bass will mask it as well.
  10. T3mpest

    Help! Decent midbass? Too many to pick from..

    MLV is a PITA, mostly trying to do vertical surfaces. Also, any gaps below the window line make it much less effective, wasting your time essentially. Whereas with deadening, even 50% coverage is still worth it for the amount it reduces vibrations.. If the car is already pretty quiet stock I'd leave it alone. I did a CTS last year and the difference wasnt' drastic, barely noticed it to be honest.
  11. The proximity to the floor is going to lower your tuning some.. I'd shoot for a 38hz tune or so on paper, in the real world it'll probably end up closer to 35hz. Subs up front dont' seem to get quite as much gain as fully in the rear where they can get fully reinforced modal response from the car, and being a single 8 it's only going to move so much air anways.. You can set the SSF at 30hz and probably be ok with 12mm xmax to go a bit under tuning. I havent' modelled it yet though, that's just at cursory glance and generally what works for MOST 8's.
  12. T3mpest

    Nemesis subwoofers ? (what the hell are they ?)

    2.5 inch coil or 3? Def off the shelf parts. The surround and cone remind me of a sinister sounds 12, or the Under Pressure audio 12.. Both are cookie cutter 3inch drivers. If it's a 3inch I'd compare it to the sinister sounds 12 pricing before I purchased as it's probably a similar speaker. The basket they used is used on a few other subs.. FU audio 750 line uses that basket, decently heavy sub, no issues. That's a 2.5 inch coil, again if you want a 2.5 inch coil, I'd compare that pricing first as that's a nice speaker for the money.
  13. T3mpest

    Duct tape ans SPL

    I'll probably be able to make a show in august you were talking about on MAF. I didn't make slam this year so I'm kinda bummed, gotta hit up something this summer still tho.
  14. T3mpest

    Duct tape ans SPL

    Clinton Il.. about 45 minutes east of Springfield. I'm in between Bloomington and Decatur.
  15. T3mpest

    Duct tape ans SPL

    Physical damping of the box will reduce the impedance spikes. It will also reduce the peaks in the output of the box.. Its been done many times in home audio and in vented boxes I can't recall it EVER making anything louder. When measured usually you just see a flatter overall response with smoother roll off. Subjectively it cuts down on a lot of the higher order distortion as well, sounds cleaner. Can't see it having a purpose in a SPL design. As you already mentioned the impedance peaks in a ported design are actually the more effecient parts of the enlcosure. Power drops to 1/4 or even less at those peaks, yet we all know from listening to ported boxes there isn't a huge SPL loss at those frequencies either. For bass race and music classes it's actually benefitial to have these peaks.. Tapped horns for example have 3 impedance peaks, which really helps with power handling thermally
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