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n2audio last won the day on October 5

n2audio had the most liked content!

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227 Excellent

About n2audio

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/11/1976


  • Name
  • Location
    Lawrence, KS
  • Occupation
    Bridge Inspection
  • Interests
    Family, boating/wakeboarding, snowboarding, baseball, auto mod/maint.
  • Audio System Setup
    cost effective

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  1. n2audio

    I need a cheap decent amp

    Sell them!? LOL Preach on, genius.
  2. I'll just say what I said on yahoo (with a few additions) and maybe get a conversation going... It doesn't matter where in the circuit the battery/alternator/load(amplifier in this case) is located -- The alternator is the source when the car's running -- as it operates at a higher voltage than the battery produces. The battery doesn't unload current until the alternator is maxed out or can't respond quick enough to a sudden change in current demand (which happens a lot with high power sound systems at high volume). Having the battery close to the amps is a good thing since you don't have as much voltage drop in the wire between the battery and amp(s). You may want to determine what size wires your stock lead from the alternator to the battery is and run an extra 8 awg or larger if there's only 8 awg (maybe 6) in place.
  3. n2audio

    I need a cheap decent amp

    Lumping them into the same group is garbage. Have you TRIED a Rockville? Looked at a dyno? Done ANYTHING of value to form that opinion?
  4. n2audio

    I need a cheap decent amp

    Rockville's a decent budget option. On such a small budget there's no need for 1500, or even 1200w -- it's a 1000w sub. More power's just SQ insurance that you don't need. The DB14 will give you ~1000 @ 2 for <$120. If you want more power anyway, the DB15 will do ~1400 for <$150. Higher power also means more stress on the electrical system. Alt and battery upgrades aren't cheap either.
  5. n2audio

    4ch down to 2ch bridged?

    yes, you can bridge and retain stereo. A lot of amps have a 2/4 ch input switch, but I don't see that option with that amp. So use y cables for your l/r signal cables. Lefts into ch 1/2, right/s 3/4 which gives you L bridged on ch 1/2 and R bridged on 3/4.
  6. n2audio

    What size wire do I need for my amp?

    need to know what amp. A speaker's power rating has no bearing on amp output. They are force fed. They will be delivered current based only on their impedance and the amp's capability at that impedance. A 50w 4 ohm speaker will "consume" 1000w if that's what the amp produces at 4 ohms (volume dependent, of course).
  7. It's just one channel. Just two places to connect wires. Use one, use both, doesn't matter. If you connect to both pairs of terminals you're wiring parallel. A 4 ohm sub on each output -- amp sees 2 ohms. About every mono >500w has two outputs.
  8. When you bridge 2 channels on a given speaker, each channel effectively "sees" half the load. So with a typical 4 ohm speaker you'd have 2 ohms per channel. With the 3 ohm speaker you'd theoretically have 1.5 which, obviously, is lower than the amp's 2 ohm minimum. But as KHA pointed out - the time spent at or near minimum impedance would likely be very low so it would be reasonable to expect the amp to handle it fine, especially if you're not blasting it at or near full volume very often. You can always just run the rears with the HU's speaker outputs.
  9. I haven't done an active set up. Many here have/do. Hopefully you'll hear from some of them soon. According to most it makes a big difference. Yes, you'd have to run the rears with an amp to run through the DSP.
  10. n2audio

    Should I get a 5 ch or 4 ch and mono?

    Other than simplicity/convenience I'm not a fan of the 5 ch option. Just the fact that I can't change amps without changing both sub and speaker would bother me. Plus, finding a 5 ch with the right amount of power for any speaker/sub combo can be difficult, at times impossible. 1/0 main at 150A, full range amp 4 awg 60A, sub amp 4 awg 100A.
  11. n2audio

    Speaker ?sss

    I'd probably just use the amp for the speakers and run the tweeters with the HU and appropriate HP filter. If this is an unconventional configuration w/o a HU I'd probably run the 4 speakers with 2 channels (wired parallel) and run the tweeters on the other channel. Tweeters would still need a filter. Not many amps have a high pass that goes high enough.
  12. Active is really just about your components. Doing away with the passive crossovers and using 4 ch of the amp instead. You'd just use the 300/4's 2ch input mode and your HU's front outputs. You'd only need to use 4 HU outputs if your HU has separate tweeter/woofer crossovers. Not sure that would be a useful feature anyway. Then you're left with the rears. Personally, I'd just use HU power to keep it simple. If you want to get a small 2 ch to run them that's fine too. The HU's rear outputs would be available.
  13. You can get decent sound from good speakers off head unit power. Maybe not super loud, but maybe loud enough. The question is - what's "decent" and "loud enough" for you. Nobody can help you with that. I always suggest just going to some stores and listening to speakers that fit in your application. For your particular car, I'd try to figure out how hard it is to adapt 6.5's for the 4x6 openings. Get some decent speakers -- see how you like it. You don't need to spend a ton on the head unit. There are plenty of good options for ~$100. If you decide you want more in the future (almost all of us do) it would not be difficult to add an amp at that point.