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n2audio last won the day on October 5 2018

n2audio had the most liked content!

About n2audio

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/11/1976


  • Name
  • Location
    Lawrence, KS
  • Occupation
    Bridge Inspection
  • Interests
    Family, boating/wakeboarding, snowboarding, baseball, auto mod/maint.
  • Audio System Setup
    cost effective

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  1. n2audio

    Sunfire sub

    For $900 it should be freaking outstanding. I took a $180 car sub and a Bash 500S, bulit a 4 cf box tuned to 25 iirc and the bass in my living room is ridiculous. My dog hates me when we watch movies.
  2. The (+) wire was connected at the amp but not yet connected to the battery? It's fine. If it was connected to the battery but not connected to the amp you should have blown the wire's fuse.
  3. n2audio

    Rock-FORD or Rock-VILLE

    You might want to look into HO alt options. In the short term you should be fine, but the alt will run hotter which can only shorten its life. I've blown through stock alts in a few months that were plenty large on paper. In some cases decent HO alts aren't much more expensive than stock replacements, and it's never a good feeling to be away from home and watch your electrical system start shutting down because the alt just quit.
  4. How different amps process input is a factor. Some 4 ch amps can use 2 ch of input to distribute to all 4 ch. That would simplify your situation a little -- at least on the input side. Otherwise, you'd use your left front and rear for ch 1/2 input and right front/rear for right input. Then when you bridge ch 1/2 that SHOULD be your left speaker wire and same on the right. I've done this more than once over the years and it seems like about half the time it comes out wrong and I just end up swapping rca's until my lefts/rights are where I want them to be. I'd like to think my misses are due to weird amp input/output setups, but it's probably just me being stupid.
  5. Decent 1/0 CCA should be good for 200A or more. Your amps' max current draw is 110A. You're more than covered. RF recommends 8 awg and 50A power for the sub amp. 8 and 60A for the 4 ch. Those push the limit for cheap 8 awg cca, but honestly I'd probably use what I had and not think twice. Use 4 awg if you have it. If you have to choose, apparently the SO needs more current than the RF (maybe not if the SO is running full range speakers).
  6. n2audio

    Car amp inside house, Ground?

    The entire car is a ground BECAUSE it is connected to the battery -- not the other way around.
  7. Factory amps are generally low power. Many "low power" aftermarket amps would be pretty powerful in comparision. With more power comes more current demand. So in order to use a stock wire for power you'd need to know with a high degree of certainty that the wire you're using is capable of supplying the current you need. It would also be wise to know what protection (fuse) is in place on the wire. Chances are it is routed in a bundle with a lot of other wires and if something bad happens you would risk damaging the wiring for the adjacent circuits.
  8. Minor details. HU's with front/rear/sub outs are almost standard these days. Regardless, there are plenty of work arounds. Some 5 ch's can accept 2 ch inputs and drive all 5 ch -- it just gives you minimal adjustability from the HU. If your amp can't do that you may need to use some y cables. Again, not a big deal.
  9. n2audio

    I need a cheap decent amp

    Sell them!? LOL Preach on, genius.
  10. I'll just say what I said on yahoo (with a few additions) and maybe get a conversation going... It doesn't matter where in the circuit the battery/alternator/load(amplifier in this case) is located -- The alternator is the source when the car's running -- as it operates at a higher voltage than the battery produces. The battery doesn't unload current until the alternator is maxed out or can't respond quick enough to a sudden change in current demand (which happens a lot with high power sound systems at high volume). Having the battery close to the amps is a good thing since you don't have as much voltage drop in the wire between the battery and amp(s). You may want to determine what size wires your stock lead from the alternator to the battery is and run an extra 8 awg or larger if there's only 8 awg (maybe 6) in place.
  11. n2audio

    I need a cheap decent amp

    Lumping them into the same group is garbage. Have you TRIED a Rockville? Looked at a dyno? Done ANYTHING of value to form that opinion?
  12. n2audio

    I need a cheap decent amp

    Rockville's a decent budget option. On such a small budget there's no need for 1500, or even 1200w -- it's a 1000w sub. More power's just SQ insurance that you don't need. The DB14 will give you ~1000 @ 2 for <$120. If you want more power anyway, the DB15 will do ~1400 for <$150. Higher power also means more stress on the electrical system. Alt and battery upgrades aren't cheap either.
  13. n2audio

    4ch down to 2ch bridged?

    yes, you can bridge and retain stereo. A lot of amps have a 2/4 ch input switch, but I don't see that option with that amp. So use y cables for your l/r signal cables. Lefts into ch 1/2, right/s 3/4 which gives you L bridged on ch 1/2 and R bridged on 3/4.
  14. n2audio

    What size wire do I need for my amp?

    need to know what amp. A speaker's power rating has no bearing on amp output. They are force fed. They will be delivered current based only on their impedance and the amp's capability at that impedance. A 50w 4 ohm speaker will "consume" 1000w if that's what the amp produces at 4 ohms (volume dependent, of course).
  15. It's just one channel. Just two places to connect wires. Use one, use both, doesn't matter. If you connect to both pairs of terminals you're wiring parallel. A 4 ohm sub on each output -- amp sees 2 ohms. About every mono >500w has two outputs.