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n2audio

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n2audio last won the day on October 5 2018

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About n2audio

  • Rank
    OPTIDRIVEN
  • Birthday 07/11/1976

MORE INFO

  • Name
    Justin
  • Location
    Lawrence, KS
  • Occupation
    Bridge Inspection
  • Interests
    Family, boating/wakeboarding, snowboarding, baseball, auto mod/maint.
  • Audio System Setup
    cost effective

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  1. What's "good enough" about a lpf? It has one. It'll work. Not a factor. 40w? It's 130. Would be easier to take you seriously if you'd get the absolute basics right.
  2. n2audio

    Do all channels output the same ohms?

    negative Might not be much of a factor though. The 300/500 example above would only improve output by a couple dB assuming the sub's not already near its limit. Could be less than that.
  3. n2audio

    Is this the right amplifier for my needs?

    The amp will work. However, if that's a 30A fuse I see I doubt it's accurately rated. Even if it's 70 or 80w per channel it should work fine, but if you can afford something a little more powerful that would be better.
  4. n2audio

    Do all channels output the same ohms?

    Sure, power output can be different. It is determined by the impedance on THAT channel. So if the amp is 70x4 at 4 and 100x4 at 2 + 300x1 at 4 or 500x1 at 2 Ch 1/2 would be 70w per speaker Ch 3/4 would be 100x2 or 50w per speaker. Sub would be 500. Assuming all speakers are 4 ohms and the sub's wired for 2.
  5. It's to be expected around here. I basically agree with your assessment, but I wouldn't worry much about running it at 2 ohms. Impedance rise and a conservative gain setting should put it in a good situation. Use a little caution at high volume and it ought to work well.
  6. Name calling? Is this your first day with internet access? Know-it-all, holier than thou, and geeks are relatively friendly references for the 95% of people on here who don't believe in a difference of opinion. You can bring out all the obscure history references you want. 12v sub amps were not common before '00. I was there, shopping and researching tech forums -- not single minded bromo nut-hugging forums like this one. That's all beside the point anyway -- which was there is never a NEED for a sub amp. The guy wanted a cheap solution, and the one he was considering was perfectly logical and effective. Did I read what Jeff said? Yes, I did, and he's wrong -- which is why I pointed that out. It has an LPF, it took, I don't know, 10 sec to verify that. I encouraged the OP because it is sound and logical advice. The BEST solution? No. The BEST solution is to save up a couple grand and do something outstanding, but that's not the budget and that's not the goal. A couple things a lot of people here are unwilling to consider. Buy the sub, provide a good enclosure, bridge the kenwood. Everything will work perfectly fine with no problems whatsoever. That is a fact and it can't be argued. Will it be the greatest sounding setup in the history of all things car audio -- sadly, no, it won't. But, it won't be money wasted, it won't be back tracking, it won't be anything negative, it will simply be the cheapest, shortest-term solution. Which is the correct answer to this question. If OP WANTS to spend more money on a 2nd/better amp --- great, that is an option too. Doesn't have to happen now. Doesn't have to happen ever. There is EVERY possibility he may be happy with just the addition of a little bass. You guys need to get over yourselves.
  7. n2audio

    Upgrading to bigger amps

    I don't understand why nobody's raising a flag here... I don't think any particular amount of speaker power is "good" w/o considering the limits of the speaker, and expectations of the listener. It seems to me your objective is to power the speakers to their absolute limit, if not beyond. As I understand it you're planning to run a speaker per channel. I was not a math major, but I'm wondering if 140w on a 15w 3" mid-range might be a bit much. And your 60w 7" won't exactly be starving for power either. I think your biggest obstacle may be keeping the amp dialed back enough and resisting the urge to turn the volume knob very far clockwise. And another measly 3k for the sub?? Better get that HO alt in the mail. Whatever it is your trying to improve or solve -- I seriously doubt lack of power is the issue.
  8. What you want to do is PERFECTLY fine. At WORST, it is a step in the right direction. There is NOTHING bad about using 2 channels of a 4 ch to run a sub -- it has a low pass filter and will work fine. Actually, it's probably the best way to build a decent sounding system at minimal cost. Some of these know-it-all's don't realize mono/subwoofer amps just came to the market about 20 yrs ago. People were putting together perfectly good quality sub setups with their bridged multi-channel amps LONG before mono/subwoofer amps were developed -- some still prefer them. At <200w you're obviously not going to have the LOUDEST sound around, but it will sound fine at moderate volume. Don't let all these car audio holier than thou geeks tell you what you want to do is dumb. Next step -- save for a decent sub amp and bridge the Kenwood to give your fronts more power. That will allow you to kick the volume up a bit and still have good sound quality.
  9. n2audio

    Do cables go bad?

    Just wire -- not likely. I have some pieces of power wire my brother took out of his car in the mid 90's that's in good shape. Some insulation will stiffen as it ages. Signal cables can wear out from a lot of use, not usually from storage.
  10. You could do that. 6.5's on the HU? You'd have 500w on your 175w sub so keep the gain very low on that channel.
  11. n2audio

    Which amp is best

    300-500w at 2 ohms is a very common power range so there are a bunch of good options. Any of these, among others, would work well: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_145815_Infinity-PRIMUS-3000A.html https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76304_Alpine-MRV-M500.html https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76852_Cerwin-Vega-B1.html https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GMD8701-1600W-Amplifier-GM-D8701/dp/B07N7MP9RC
  12. It would work, but just look at the numbers... Your 6.5's, which don't need a ton of power (65w) would be getting 100. Your 8's which do need a lot of power would be getting half. And your sub, which is low power by today's standards would be getting 2.5x what it needs. I think your best solution would be a big 2 ch that's around 300x2 at 2 ohms (to run the 8's), and a 4 ch that's 50-80w per channel to run the 6.5's and sub.
  13. The pio amp would be great, even ideal. It is much more powerful than the 4's need, keep the gain low and the high pass filter pretty high. There's no series/parallel issues. It's a 4 channel amp with 4 speakers -- a speaker on each channel.
  14. "Bridge" means to combine 2 channels of an amp into one. Common for using a 2 channel amp to run a sub. It was clear Jeff was recommending using the Pioneer 4 ch to run the mids and tweeters -- commonly referred to as "active" -- in that the power and frequency control for the woofers/tweeters is being done by an active component (the DSP) vs the more traditional/basic (and slightly less desirable in terms of SQ) practice of using a passive 2-way crossover after the amp which filters hi's for the woofer and lows for the tweeter. He never mentioned a 2nd amp, but did account for running sub signal through the DSP (channels 7-8), implying a 2nd amp and sub would be used.
  15. 1) I haven't used a DSP, but I don't think there'd be any point in a kill switch for everything...just stop whatever's playing. A switch on the sub remote wire wouldn't be a bad idea. 2) Depends. If you're blasting it all the time, yeah, it will be a fairly big electrical load, but relative to what a lot of people are running these days it's not a huge power demand at all. The pio amps are efficient, and 400w isn't a ton of power anyway. The RF can be gained down a little and shouldn't be too bad other than full volume sessions with a lot of bass. Looks like your Murano has a 110A alt. Not huge, but not bad for ~800w. The alt's work load will be higher, it's the nature of high power sound systems. No alt lasts forever, stock electrical demand or otherwise. 3) With the engine off, just be aware. If you blast it for an hour - that wouldn't be good. For a few minutes - probably fine if your battery's in good shape. If you put a sub switch in and turn off the sub you could probably play at moderate volume for an hour or two and still crank the engine.
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