Adding Bass to factory Systems - I'm a noob

A few months back, I removed a pair of 8" subs in ported box and a 1200w rms amp from my nephew's '20 Ram. Replaced with a pair of JL Audio 12w1v2 in an upfire ported underseat box, and a JL Audio JX500/1 amp. That night on his way to work, he called all giddy saying, "Man, not gonna lie, I love this system!" OEM everything else. Stick to your original plan and play it by ear.
Original plan was two subs and an amp, no dsp since I didn’t even know what dsp was. Is this what you meant or did you just mean focus on bass upgrade only for now and see? Is dsp strongly recommended?

also, what do you think about me adding only 1 sub instead of two? Big mistake?
 
Even if you add just a subwoofer and mono block you will still need a good loc or dsp. So either 100-125 dollars for a quality loc or 150 for the dsp if you want it for a future upgrade for the door speakers and what not.

You can get a 2 or 4 channel amplifiers like Taramps for 100 bucks and a SFB 1K for 190 or if you want Taramps they make a lower cost monoblock as well for 100-150 for your subwoofer. Plus you have to figure in a wiring kit as well, distribution block and rca cables.

If you do just a subwoofer you will need that loc or dsp, plus wiring kit, rca cables, monoblock amplifier and I would do a distribution block just for a future upgrade so it is there if you want it. Along with having a box built, you can contact buck for the design once you choose a subwoofer or he can help you there. If you want to then take that design to the local shop and have them build it for you since you said you don't want to. Don't buy some prefab junk as it won't be tuned right for the music you listen to or the subwoofer as it is just a general kind all purpose and they are never set at the hz they claim if they say 35 figure closer to 40hz or so.
 
also, what do you think about me adding only 1 sub instead of two? Big mistake?
A DSP is a big advantage because it flattens and amplifies the signal from the OEM stereo or amplifier, so your aftermarket amp receives an optimal signal that allows it to perform at it's best. As for one 10, I would do it only in a hatchback or a single cab, maybe an SUV as well. Anything else, one or two 12s. As stated earlier, if bass is too much, attenuate it via bass knob. Only once have I had the bass drown out vocals, and it was a pair of 15s. I have since then stuck to 10s and 12s. Are you having second thoughts about the amount of space you will lose?
 
A DSP is a big advantage because it flattens and amplifies the signal from the OEM stereo or amplifier, so your aftermarket amp receives an optimal signal that allows it to perform at it's best. As for one 10, I would do it only in a hatchback or a single cab, maybe an SUV as well. Anything else, one or two 12s. As stated earlier, if bass is too much, attenuate it via bass knob. Only once have I had the bass drown out vocals, and it was a pair of 15s. I have since then stuck to 10s and 12s. Are you having second thoughts about the amount of space you will lose?
At this point I am assuming I would be able to fit one or 2 of the 10 inch subs under rear seat, and so should only be sacrificing storage space. Of course this is all in theory since the truck I want to buy in October isn’t available yet for sale or to even know what internal space it will have available. I’m optimistic, but who knows, I may have to change the plan.
As for my second thoughts, I just see all these added costs racking up and so I’m thinking of ways to get most of what I want while saving money. I’m glad to know that 2 x 10’s likely would not drown out the factory speakers. If I had unlimited funds I would just have it all switched out for top of the line equipment, but since I have to stick to a rather modest budget, we’ll see what happens. As it stands right now my list would be the 2 subs, the monoblock amp, the dsp, all the needed wiring for the install and the sub box. If I get a car audio dealer to make a custom box, is $200 a good guess at the cost? I really have no frame of reference.
 
For the 2 x 10 inch subs (Alpine S-W10D4) Crutchfield recommended the Pioneer GM-DX971 saying this amp would be perfectly matched to run these subs. The amp is $300. Any alternate recommendations? Would love to find something as good or better for less money if possible.
 
Would love to find something as good or better for less money if possible
There are. If you want to stick with Alpine
Screenshot_20210510-195446.png

If you do not mind refurbished, I have used the next models with good results.
Screenshot_20210510-200523.png
Screenshot_20210510-200546.png

There are many other common reliable brands like Pioneer, JBL, Alpine and many others that I have no experience with.
Depending which amp you choose, you will have to use subs with the lowest recommended impedance.
 
There are. If you want to stick with Alpine
View attachment 28628
If you do not mind refurbished, I have used the next models with good results.

There are many other common reliable brands like Pioneer, JBL, Alpine and many others that I have no experience with.
Depending which amp you choose, you will have to use subs with the lowest recommended impedance.
The alpine s-a60m was on my list, was even asking crutchfield rep about it, but in the end they recommended the pioneer. I assumed the alpine was much less powerful based on the rms ratings and assumed it would not push the subs as well. I admittedly do not know much , especially when it comes to all the technical specs and ratings about wattage and ohms and impedence. Too confusing.
 
. I assumed the alpine was much less powerful based on the rms ratings
This is true, but 600 watts RMS is pretty powerful. 600 will push both subs quite hard and not overtax your electrical. The amp I had before, was the db drive a8 that I posted above. It does 600@ 2ohms. I left it as long as I could, so I could show a nephew that he did not need the 1800 watts amp that a local shop was pushing on him. He went with a 500rms plus low power subs and he could not be happier. Plus I do not think that todays Alpine is one to exaggerate their output numbers.
On another note, ported box price varies dependent on amount of features requested. Rounded ends, 45 degree corners, bracing, et cetera.
 
This is true, but 600 watts RMS is pretty powerful. 600 will push both subs quite hard and not overtax your electrical. The amp I had before, was the db drive a8 that I posted above. It does 600@ 2ohms. I left it as long as I could, so I could show a nephew that he did not need the 1800 watts amp that a local shop was pushing on him. He went with a 500rms plus low power subs and he could not be happier. Plus I do not think that todays Alpine is one to exaggerate their output numbers.
On another note, ported box price varies dependent on amount of features requested. Rounded ends, 45 degree corners, bracing, et cetera.
All of this is very good info, I appreciate all of your real world experiences as they are so applicable to my situation. I think I’ll plan on the alpine and save $100. How much beyond buying the subs and amp and dsp and box should I expect to pay for wiring?
 
Ok, so I'm new here, first post, and new to car audio. My only experience was in high school. Had a very basic system put in my mustang (2 small Sabre Sound brand subs in ported boxes with an amplifier and an Alpine head unit, and a couple of 5 inch coaxial alpine door speakers). I bought these used off a buddy and had them installed. But to be clear, I know mostly nothing. That same buddy knew some, but more importantly had virtually unlimited funds and spent tons of his parent's money on a very powerful system. At the time he had a pair of alpine's most expensive competition-grade 12 in subs in a custom ported box powered by a high end alpine amp, 6 disk changer, and alpine full range speakers all through his car. Not only did it sound amazing, it also had unbelievable amounts of clear powerful, bone-rattling bass.

So, fast forward 30 years to now, and I am interested in having a solid system. I do not want to enter any competitions, and I do not want to annoy the neighbors, or rattle everyone's windows. I plan to buy a new silverado crew cab in the next 6 months, and would like to add a respectable amount of bass, to play all types of music, and sometimes pump some decent bass. I don't want to spend much (under $1000, maybe less). TO keep costs low, I want to keep the head unit/infotainment that comes with the truck to maintain all functionality of the back up cameras and other systems. Also, if I can keep the OEM full range speakers and only add the bass I am wanting, then that would save more money. I just want the sound to blend well and be balanced. To this end, I have many questions:

So, the main issue I am running into is the lack of space in the truck for mounting regular depth subs. I see many shallow sub options, as well as compact powered subs that are built to slide under seats. Obviously I want to avoid these more compact subs as I can't imagine they would add enough bass. I do not know if there is space behind the second row in a crew cab or under that second seat for a regular depth subwoofer, but maybe you all can guide me there. Right now, based on my high school experiences with my friend's system, I am gravitating toward the Alpine R-Series subs, possibly the 10 inchers, but it seems unlikely that these would be mountable in a truck due to their depth. Any thoughts there?

If the R-series subs just will not work physically, then my next choice is the S-Series, as I have read that the current S-series are much shallower than previous versions and have been updated with a lot of the tech found in the R-series. Yes, I do prefer Alpine. I know some here probably love Alpine, and others may not, but I want to stick with this brand. Partly because of my good experiences, and partly based on nostalgia.

So from there, I have read that some people run these subs with no amp, and some go with an amp. Would a no-amp setup really do much? Sounds very low power. This could save money, but if there is very little bass in this setup then I do not see the point of spending the money on subs. Another note is that I see some people talking about having to upgrade vehicle wiring, adding a second batter, or upgrading the alternator, and I am not interested in this at all. Finally, I am perfectly fine adding a single sub being that bass is omnidirectional. I would think 1 well-powered sub would be enough for my needs, but your thoughts here would be helpful.

In the ideal world that exists only in my head, I would keep the OEM head unit and full range speakers that come with the truck, and then add a single 10 inch R-series Alpine sub in a ported box, that magically would fit either under or behind the rear seat with no fit/space issues, and powere it with a perfectly matched amp, and this would all sound balanced and amazing together, and allow me to enjoy some serious bass with my music.

So who has thoughts on all this? I'm sure I am misguided on much of the above, but that is what is in my head.

I appreciate your feedback. Thanks!
--Derek

Which truck? Sorry if I missed it. Shallow subs are terrible, except the JL which costs like a grand. Put four regular depth 6-½" subs behind the seat on a 1K amp and have fun.
 
Which truck? Sorry if I missed it. Shallow subs are terrible, except the JL which costs like a grand. Put four regular depth 6-½" subs behind the seat on a 1K amp and have fun.
2022 Sierra/Silverado. Won’t be out til late summer. Not interested in 4 small subs, too expensive. Possibly 2 x 8’s instead of 2 x 10’s, but only if I felt the bass wouldn’t suffer, and only if it were necessary due to mounting depth issues. Otherwise I want 10’s.
 
Possibly 2 x 8’s instead of 2 x 10’s, but only if I felt the bass wouldn’t suffer, and only if it were necessary due to mounting depth issues. Otherwise I want 10’s.
This brings up an interesting question, I know it’s impossible to quantify, but how would you expect 2 x 8’s to perform compared to 2 x 10’s? Assume same manufacturer and speaker series.
 
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