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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Popwarhomie

    Random Picture Thread

    Try meth.
  2. 2 points
    oxsign

    Random Picture Thread

    Bieb just trying to stay in the new and relevant?? What a complete moron. 🤦🏻‍♂️ Round 1 to Cruise here.... lol.
  3. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

    Wow that's all kinda gross.
  4. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Chicken breast or pork chops?

    Poke chops and cold beer.
  5. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

  6. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

  7. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

  8. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

  9. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

    Liking the new hair.
  10. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

    Agree 100% love the look of the original bottle.
  11. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

    N/m I missed the sarcasm. I prefer Demerol over morphine.
  12. 1 point
    Popwarhomie

    Random Picture Thread

    I tell it how it is all the time. That's why alot of people hate me lol But yeah no weed for me either. Don't care for the feeling it gives me.
  13. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

    Lmao! Imagine ThxOne on meth!
  14. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum!! I am running a Barbara Ann in 4 channel mode at 4ohms (22.4v on the output terminals of the amps front channels using a 0db 1kHz tone which should be just north of 125w with that 1kHz tone [actual music power will be less... I am guessing 80 - 90 seriously clean watts]) on Kenwood eXcelon Components up front and eXcelon coaxials in the rear. I push it hard and it barely gets warm. It moves my battery gauge when I am pushing it so I know it is using some power to make that power. I can tell it has more power in reserve... in my opinion this amp is definitely underrated. It's a big amp and takes up some room. It looks good and performs flawlessly. It has never shut down. I have never heard any weird noises from it. I have it about 2 feet from a 1200w Class D amplifier and I have NEVER heard a hum or hiss or anything coming out of my door speakers... (Using my good ear lol). I think if you use 2ohm speakers and set the amp gains correctly it would be loud enough to cause pain. But cause the pain with clean sound. I would suggest this amplifier ALL DAY to anyone and I have nothing bad to say about it. You can see the size with my hand. I am 5'10" I wear a large glove.
  15. 1 point
    https://www.amazon.com/Single-Subwoofer-Sealed-Automotive-Enclosure/dp/B002CEIMDY/ref=sr_1_10_sspa?keywords=atrend+12+sealed&qid=1560274564&s=gateway&sr=8-10-spons&psc=1
  16. 1 point
    For a more professional look: https://www.parts-express.com/cat/terminal-plates-cups/321 As someone who did the drill a tiny hole, ran speaker wire through and caulked it back up, its worth the extra dollar or 2 for a terminal cup.
  17. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

  18. 1 point
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

  19. 1 point
    DRBOOM

    Identifying old mtx sub

    The code gives it away mate. The 15rd954. Its a Road Thunder 15 inch series, made in 1995 and its 4 ohms. If you plan to use it then give it a clean and seal the hole in the surround using salistic / guey silicone based black tar looking glue. Just apply a dab from the back of the woofer cone so you cannot see it from the front. You may have to seal the tear with some glue first before you apply the black glue. Also the dust cap seems to be giving away so seal that with super glue as well! Now as long as the voice coil is all good, it should give you years of enjoyment in your car, home or man cave!
  20. 1 point
    PPVtahoe11

    Identifying old mtx sub

    Lmao put the woofer in the trash where is belongs 🤯
  21. 1 point
    2RZ-FE

    SSA Demon (10" & 12")

    Sounds as loud as the last one to my ears.. Wasted the Duratex on the last one. Caulking would show through stain. Probably get some more Duratex.
  22. 1 point
    lol you sure about that buddy? I suggest you ask for a refund and when they ask why, tell them to give you a list of manufacturers who use dvc subs with "intertwined" coils
  23. 1 point
    THATpurpleKUSH

    My first box is finished

    It's a birch veneer ply, its 5 ply poplar or pine with a birch veneer. That's what big box stores call "birch ply." Great job overall OP. The port is a bit small but if there is no port noise then I guess it's sufficient.
  24. 0 points
    Popwarhomie

    Random Picture Thread

    Said she wanted soup and ice cream for dinner...
  25. 0 points
    Slo_Ride

    Random Picture Thread

    Oh and by the way percoset isn't a real word. 😋
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    • Hi everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my setup for the first time and have some questions.  I'm not an audiophile (maybe yet, haha) but I do love music and want it to sound reasonably good, considering price. But I wanna start with something basic and go from there. My plan is to buy the parts and get a local shop to install everything. Hoping to keep it around $500 (I'm Canadian but using USD to presumably make it easier for people here) all in if possible.  I have a 1997 Honda Civic CX. There's an aftermarket Kenwood deck in it but its old and I'll be replacing it. Beyond that there's 2 stock speakers in the back, and none in the front, just the plastic things that look like speakers, which I found kinda odd.  So onto the questions. How many speakers do I actually need? Can I just get a new deck, 2 speakers, and a powered sub and call it a day? Or do I need 4 speakers? The first scenario seems more convenient, because if I understand correctly (correct me if not), I can only plug in 4 things to the average lower-end deck. 4 speakers plus a sub would require me to get an amp, yes? Prefer to not go down that road if possible for budget reasons. Can I get 2 new speakers and keep the existing rear ones? Would that sound bad? Examples of components I'm looking at: Heads: https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_105KDX360B/JVC-KD-X360BTS.html https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130DS5120B/Pioneer-DEH-S5120BT.html Speakers: https://www.amazon.ca/Pioneer-TS-F1634R-200W-2-Way-Speakers/dp/B0081SRIFS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=car+speakers&qid=1560738414&s=gateway&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.ca/Kicker-43DSC6504-Coaxial-Speakers-DSC6504/dp/B01BLVEVNS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=car+speakers&qid=1560738414&s=gateway&sr=8-4 https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3-6-5-Inch-Full-Range/dp/B00BF6HWCM/ref=pd_sbs_107_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BF6HWCM&pd_rd_r=fd3d6628-913e-11e9-a19e-076b366cd722&pd_rd_w=kgvev&pd_rd_wg=T8GM0&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=VZNPG9H461JQCD2FM8N0&psc=1&refRID=VZNPG9H461JQCD2FM8N0 Subwoofer: https://www.amazon.ca/Rockville-RW10CA-Profile-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B019Z3R582/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=subwoofer+car&qid=1560738464&s=gateway&sr=8-3 (looks like it just sold out) https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8P/Sound-Ordnance-B-8P.html   Will appreciate any help. Thanks!
    • I still have a couple 2005 RE XXX's and the original xbl^2 XXX 6.5's around here somewhere. Ah the good old days...
    • In a 4th order bandpass, all the output comes from the ports, so the direction the driver faces is irrelevant.
    • Im not familiar with the Kenwood h/u the OP has, but it is no longer safe to assume h/u amplifiers only put out 15-20 watts. Some h/u's come with a MOSFET amplifier these days and actually can put out close to 50 watts per channel, and I consider a great option for people just dabbling in car audio and dont want a dedicated external mid/highs amplifier.
    • Keep in mind that just because our ears lose stereo separation at lower frequencies does not mean the recording devices, and playback devices, also lose it. If in doubt, its pretty easy to sum your audio signal pre-amplification. There really is no reason to ever run subs in stereo, because as you say, our ears wont hear any advantages, but there could be disadvantages in the reproduction (wave cancellation affecting output response).

      edit: this is of course assuming you are running a true subwoofer system, and not one that your system also relies on for midbass, which I wouldn't recommend either due to localization issues.
    • No, you are not doing okay as long as you stay above 12 volts. Most healthy batteries will be above 12 volts when fully charged, and an alternator is ideally bringing your voltage up to 14.4 when the system/vehicle draw does not exceed the output of the alternator.

      I assume we are talking about a daily system, as opposed to a competition system where you are trying to maximize the output to tenths of a db. In the case of a daily driver system, basically as long as you never need to use jumper cables to start your car, its sufficient. This is because everyone's listening habits are different. How often you play the stereo while the engine is on, how loud you play it, and even (sometimes) the genre of music you listen to can affect the average-over-time draw your system puts on the charging system.
    • Thanks but Im asking a more broad question than what you personally are planning to do.
    • What is your goal? Are you trying to block/absorb noise, such an engine or road noise? Or are you mass loading panels to lower their resonant frequency?
    • I don't plan on doing a 5k+ watt build on a fully electric vehicle anytime soon so I am not worried about it.
    • You didnt list what speakers were used, but if they are a component set they should have come with passive crossovers. And again you didn't list what ARC amp you have, but it possibly has a highpass filter which should block unwanted frequencies.
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