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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/11/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Sell that boss for $40-50 locally, it’s junk then you have $120...sell some misc items you no longer use to get another $60 Now you have $180 which is your new sub AND amp budget. https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/american-bass-xd-1044-10-inch-450w-rms-dvc-4-ohm-subwoofer.html The pioneer 8601 seems to have gone up in price a bit...you need to sell some more belongings ...watch some Garyvee YouTube videos on how to hustle...
  2. 2 points
    Good luck! Did a good bit of driving today. Charging at 14.3-14.4 I haven't seen below 14.1 even after a couple full bass race songs to the point of hot cones. Batteries recharge to 14.3-14.4 just about in the time it takes for the subs to cool down. I really can't wait to try a second amp on these jokers. I also need to get my alternator back to Nathan and get it switched to externally regulate so I can have some options there. I'm continuing to be impressed with these. Also up in Maine we usually start getting some snow by Halloween so I should be able to report a bit on cold weather performance pretty soon.
  3. 1 point
    ...JBL is cool with me 😀 i must say these club series amps look cheesey in pics but they look and feel great in person.
  4. 1 point
    For home: Hsu Research and Velodyne For cars: SoundSplinter
  5. 1 point
    No where near enough capacity to keep up with the high amperage draw. You literally drain the capacitor in milliseconds. It's fine for a system that is only ramping highs and no bass but the big bass draws just drain the capacitor way too fast. After its drained it's just something else for the alt to charge. Now ultra capacitors are a different story most 6cell banks of those are 500farad not 2 farad You are much better investing in a large alternator and a decent sized agm placed right next to the amp.
  6. 1 point
    You could cut a straight line bud, everyone can. Clamp a piece of wood to whatever you're cutting and push the saw against it like a table saw. Not saying this to hate on you just a tip
  7. 1 point
    I have the 360bts. Here is the manual pdf for the unit. Audio settings starts at page 24 http://www33.jvckenwood.com/pdfs/B5A-2626-10.pdf?_ga=2.73547930.908138872.1539488485-647358259.1536725447
  8. 1 point
    i just mean hp xover on the amp.. either use that or get hu that has one they are easier to control from hu because u have a digital read out and easier to get to.. if u want best 4 channel cheap pioneer 8604 i think it is tested higher than rated.. i just have $120 kenwood x301 (new one is 302 i think) it has all xovers u need + 13 band eq, time alignment, 24 bit da convetor, bt, usb pretty nice for the $
  9. 1 point
    lol ported is by far the loudest., it does take a while to learn about them.. if u just want like 2 subs in sealed box look at alpine S or dayton 12's
  10. 1 point
    Couldn’t agree more!
  11. 1 point
    More information needed. What HU,What orion amplifier,not enough as to loudness or ?Great speakers,may look into running active if possible before spending more $
  12. 1 point
    I’ll get my refund, I paid thru PayPal. And mine also still says processing.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    My 3 year old daughter... lol she actually likes the bass, says it buzzes her, always asks daddy to turn it up, but I have a dsp tune for when shes in the truck, as much as I love that she already likes bass I as a father just cant expose her to that level of sound... but I think shell be a mini bass head, she always hangs out with me while I'm doing my installs and wants to help... just hope she doesn't grow out of it... fingers crossed!
  15. 1 point
    Sort of, keep in mind that "sensitivity" is calculated and not measured though and this may or may not be honest. The other side of that coin from a design standpoint is the very efficient speakers are always limited in power handling. Everything we do to make them handle more power robs efficiency. It's always a compromise. For what it's worth I have always liked the JBL/Infininty product line on lower power. JBL has some beefier options for higher power, not so sure about Infinity. Polk sold out manufacturing very early 90s and I haven't liked them much since. They may be decent but it's one of those where they just became a shadow of their former greatness in my mind. Really if you stay out of the gutter brands you should be OK but component/coaxial speaker sound is very subjective. You'd do best to try to go to some brick and mortar stores to audition them in person.
  16. 1 point
    Hi, I know you said 22W but i should have clarified that you can expect the first 5W to be usable, listenable. Beyond 5W distortion becomes audible and at 10W it will sound poor and at 22W it will be un-listenable and likely not possible. This relates to how these amplifier IC's are rated. Note that the amplifier IC itself is contained on a single chip the size of a quarter and it does all of the amplification for all 4 channels. This amplification is the result of the outputs being bridged (so think of it as an 8 channel amp bridged to 4 channels). But the IC has power leads the size of a thin lead which could in no way handle 88W of output power (since input power is output power + efficiency losses (heat). Instead, a manufacturer can rate an amp 22Wx4 if only one channel can produce 22W for one second. It is misleading, I know, but that's how the industry has been for years (home receivers are notorious for this - note the UL Listed max power draw of a receiver - such as 100Wx7 with a max draw of only 325W). Typically, you can assume about 25% of an IC amplifier chip being usable. Long story short, expect you'll only want to listen to 5W per channel of a head unit. JBL, Polk, Hertz, JL Audio, Alpine - all have viable options in those sizes - even if they are entry-level models. My personal favorite for coaxial 6.5 and 6x9 combos is the Hertz High Energy (now the Mille Pro). But those come at a steep price. Keep in mind you'll want to consider wiring up front components so the tweeters are pointed at your face - that will greatly improve sensitivity since door speakers are pointed at your ankles.
  17. 1 point
    There are many factors that determine how much "SQ" you can get out of a sub, and sub selection is lower on the list of important items. The enclosure and sub combo will determine the low end extension that can be produced and the sub/enclosure placement in the vehicle determine what you actually hear. The Sundown SA-12 can be an excellent budget SQ sub and one I may personally run in the near future (replacing an expensive sub). If you'd like to now more about why I mention Sundown, there is a good interview with the owner here where he discusses his testing procedures and what the latest version has to offer: Dayton Audio also makes good products for the price point. That said, JL Audio does an excellent job and their products are highly recommended. The idea that you need a sealed enclosure for SQ is a misnomer. Ported enclosures can improve/extend frequency response and increase overall enclosure efficiency. Both of which can help with SQ goals. But the placement of the enclosure determines what cancellation you will get. Consider wavelengths of interest and how the rear of the vehicle produces a reflection that can cancel the direct path. Certainly, take time to play around with placement, and don't be surprised if rear corner loading (facing into the corner) sounds the best. One good way to test is to listen to tracks with bass that "walks the scale" - meaning it varies from high to low frequencies while you listen for consistent output. If some notes are louder than others (and conversely some are quieter) then you may be hearing phase interference (cancellation or addition).
  18. 1 point
    Hi! Actually, output goes up by 3dB for every doubling of power. https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/217201737-Doubling-Power-vs-Doubling-Output Sensitivity is one factor that you can use to evaluate speaker choices, but it's not the only factor. Some aspects of speaker design that improve sensitivity may sound worse. One difference between a dust cap and a phase plug is that the dust cap adds output (increases the sensitivity rating) but usually does so at the sacrifice of frequency response in the upper octaves. In general, your thinking is correct that having a speaker system with higher sensitivity will be louder on a head unit. You can only plan on 5W being usable out of a head unit, all channels driven. Beyond that distortion becomes audible, and quickly. You should still be able to achieve a 93-95dBA output level which is plenty for HU power. So, assume you find a speaker system with 90dB 1W & 1M and you give it 4 clean watts of power - you can expect 96dB 4W @ 1M. In a car, you sit about 1 meter away from a speaker and about 2 meters from the rest. Overall output would be the logarithmic sum of all four speakers, getting you close to 100dBA of possible output - theoretically assuming no cancellation occurring. My recommendation for piecing a system together is to buy what you want at the end, in steps. Sacrificing now and getting something cheaper isn't saving money if you plan on buying the better version later. Saving up for the good item is worth the wait (or finding it used for a fraction of the cost).
  19. 1 point
    Lol wtf?I got refunded today but no emails yet.
  20. 1 point
    DD isn't catering to bottom feeders looking for China's race to zero. You can indeed order direct if you don't have an authorized retailer near you and their stuff is still top notch. Redline subs are a strong value for "entry level" DD. Don't think they've done much with their amps but why reinvent the wheel? Their lineup is proven and there's not any great new technology to help them.
  21. 1 point
    It's been years but I installed just that into a Sunfire and I thought it was pretty far from good sound quality. It was an entry level Kenwood AM/FM/CD receiver and Pioneer A series 4x6s and 6x9s, if I recall correctly. To the owner the car was a college runner that wasn't intended to be owned for more than a few years. One of the Sony high power HUs would do a lot better job with a wide range of speakers. I sell CDT Audio speakers exclusively now which I trust to sound great on a wide range of power. The car is going to need 2 pairs of speaker adapter brackets and I strongly recommend vibration damping mat as there is a lot of stuff in a Sunfire that will tend to vibrate. If you'd like to see some ideas and figures pm me.
  22. 1 point
    You can get decent sound from good speakers off head unit power. Maybe not super loud, but maybe loud enough. The question is - what's "decent" and "loud enough" for you. Nobody can help you with that. I always suggest just going to some stores and listening to speakers that fit in your application. For your particular car, I'd try to figure out how hard it is to adapt 6.5's for the 4x6 openings. Get some decent speakers -- see how you like it. You don't need to spend a ton on the head unit. There are plenty of good options for ~$100. If you decide you want more in the future (almost all of us do) it would not be difficult to add an amp at that point.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Seeing as I've been down this path of adding or replacing amplifiers for more power to see how the sound changes on the same speakers, I can tell you with high confidence Option 1 means you'd spend a lot more money and get little to justify it. You have already been told a very important clue to all of this, which is the tweeters. Not that there is a problem, it's that if you want it louder and maintain the same balance from bass to the top end you're not going to get any more out of the tweeters. It's very unlikely that the tweeters need any "help" with a different amplifier, head unit, or DSP. They're not getting anywhere close to the rated power output of your amplifier with music playing, so giving them a more powerful amplifier is a total waste of money. An approach that adds more speakers is the most logical one. Or you could install pro audio style mid-woofers and bullet tweeters but that is totally counteractive to your apparent preference for good sound.
  25. 1 point
    Ive bought several things from Vertex Audio, and Ive had nothing but straight up EXCELLENT service and EXCELLENT products from them!! Highly Recommend Vertex for any car audio needs! Great people and great products and fantastic service!!
  • Latest Posts

    • Out of curiosity, can you recommend speakers and a price point for speakers equal or greater sounding that the BOSE for sound quality and clarity, not necessarily loudness. I want to keep shi* simple and just get a sub and amp and not have to pull apart the entire car with new speakers and head unit. Just curious though. Also, basic question.  A good duel 12 sub sealed sub for Sound Quality recommendations, no space requirements, under 500 for sub system including box. I listen to EDM, psy trance, has lots of fast low bass notes. I'm worried a ported box will blur this fast 16 notes into one.
    • I'm shooting for 60/40, max 75/25, subs on top on both ratios, so a range 450-900 RMS output, while keeping the factory. I have my mind set on 2 12 inch subs. Does this mean I need to go DVC here, thus also allowing either 450 or 900 watt output depending non serial or parallel. This way, if 900 is too much, I have plan b, which his wire them in serial to double the impedance (half the watts). DVC means I loose efficiency, especially in a sealed sub box, since the OHMS will likely be either 2 or 4 in this case, while I was hoping for a simpler mono channel system that is efficient at 1 ohm. Is 1 ohm possible for a 2 sub system?
    • If you want balanced then you can't really go any higher/bigger with the sub(s) until you up the power to the rest of the system. Unfortunately Blose systems use cheap paper drivers that wont except much more than what they run to them from the factory. 
    • Box is way too small. SSF needs to be lowered. LPF needs to be raised Bass boost off  
    • Might sound better for home theater application. Home theater subs (generally) are designed totally different than the stuff we have in cars.   They are typically far more efficient but like a much bigger box.   Modern car audio woofers sacrifice efficiency for being able to perform well in small box, and all things being equal a properly engineered car audio sub is built around the idea that it'll be played in a car and not a large room (ideally effecting actual real-world response).  Nothing wrong with throwing a 1000W sub on a 100W amp, and <80hz you might not even notice a difference at all but it will probably be inefficient and may not perform as well in your living room as in your trunk.  IMO for the price of a 12V power supply that'll really handle a 1000W car amp properly you could just buy a plate amp at PartsExpress, and for 150$ you can buy a Dayton Reference 12" there that'll probably outperform your JL sub in every way for home theater application. 
    • The new vendor memberships allow you to post ads in the corresponding classifieds area and also allows you to create your own storefront in the classifieds to sell items. 
    • I'm concerned with power balance. I don't want the subs to over power the rest of the audio spectrum. I'm an SQ Guy. I was hoping to shoot for 2 12's at 1 ohm at least around 500-1000 RMS. Now, I have to double think this. Should I limit myself to a single sub no more than 300 watts so the ratio is a solid 50/50 between the subs and the rest of the speakers. Other option of course to replace the 10 speaker 300 watt bose system in my infiiniti fx35 2009 model. It sounds good so it'd be a shame.  Is there a way to maybe buy an amp for the for factory speakers to boost it to 500 or more so i can buy more powerful subs in a balanced system?   One other question, went to the car shop yesterday and they don't have an option to preview car systems, wtf? Does everyone go in sound unheard and drop a k hoping it sounds decent? 
    • Diablo is the real deal when it comes to tuning Hemi's.
    • I think Aaron has his back and it's Aaron's team.
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