Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Does any know how to make their own thread?
  2. 1 point

    Random Picture Thread

    The world need more people like this.
  3. 1 point
    wew lad

    Taramps HD3000 for $179

    I didn't think the prices would get this low lol @bigblank69 this will certainly be a big deal for your budget gem list
  4. 1 point
    It's not making rated power if the voltage is dropping that bad to below 12v. You need a clamp meter to accurately measure its true output. 18a at 11.7v is 210w, it can't produce more than what it is drawing and no amp is 100% efficient. Impedance is reactive, so the sub isn't at a constant 2 ohms, the impedance changes with every frequency so your measuing technique is not correct and you are lacking the correct equipment to properly measure what you are trying to do. Whatever electrical system you are using to power that amp is too weak for the amp and you are getting voltage drop which is not good and can blow up the amp.
  5. 1 point

    Random Picture Thread

  6. 1 point

    Random Picture Thread

    Ive never been a fan of Studebaker's, but this custom '39 Commander is sweet af.
  7. 1 point
    Amplifier output is wired to the crossover inputs then each speaker (tweeter, mid, woofer) is wired to the crossover outputs for the respective speaker. Don't mix those up. The manual for the speakers should include diagrams (otherwise you can reference manuals for other brands like Alpine).
  8. 1 point

    ANSWERED Alternator whine

    McHammer??!!?? *scratches head* Anyhow, I would try a diff set of RCA's see if that works. And check your ground. Bare metal to bare metal. These are the main reasons for alt whine.
  9. 1 point

    ANSWERED Alternator whine

    Hey there mate! Thanks for bringing up your issue, The issue is with your head unit poor grounding inside the unit itself. I have had this issue previously with Sony and Pioneer head units. What you need to do is": take out your current head unit; apply speaker wires around your rear RCA inputs of your head unit, into a figure '8' to all of the RCA Inputs, ( if you have three, do all of them) after you have go the bare copper speaker wires to form a figure 8 shape, apply solder so it holds it shape; Ground all the speaker wires to the rear of your head unit to one point; Reconnect all the RCA with the figure 8 wires and the RCA CABLES will hold them in place; Check your grounding point and distribution connector terminals are all securely tightened on the amplifier and the grounding point as well; Check your head unit grounding point is getting a good contact as well; Hopefully, this should rectify your issue mate! Let us know how you go.
  • Join in on the official CarAudio.com forum community!

    Sign Up is Easy and Free...

  • Latest Posts

    • a 3rd solution is to get a better head unit.  Sounds weird but my buddy going from a cheapo 60 dollar JVC head unit that claimed 4 volt preouts to a 150 dollar pioneer with real 4 volt preouts had a massive difference in bass performance alone.   The old head unit at a certain point it stopped getting loud and got getting stinky coils and hot amp, hot subs.  With the new pioneer it literally feels like 5 clicks louder than the max clipped output point of the cheapo JVC and the amps and subs are room temperature.
    • any amp clipped will get hot no matter 1 or 4 ohm. Considering his subs takes a lot of power to move he'll want more output than 4 ohms can give him and definitely come close to clipping the amp even more, same amount of heat.    So the most likely culprit is, you arent getting loud enough and you are pushing the amp pretty hard and your electrical might also be not up to par.  The cheapest solution is to build an efficient high performance custom ported box so you can get the output you need without stressing the amp out.  2nd is to upgrade electricals and plop in a bigger amp so you dont have to red line the amp all the times which means cooler setup, cleaner signal.
    • if possible, borrow an amp from a mate and run your subwoofer for a week to see how it behaves.  If that amp also gets too hot then; You may be using a lighter gauge wiring for the amp; suggest you upgrade to 1/0 gauge power, ground wires; if you are unsure of your amps specs / requirements, read the manual to verify its ok to run 2 gauge or you will have to upgrade. The amp only gets hot under normal conditions if the power consumption is not met,  Usually, under normal circumstances, it should get warm, but not hot so you can only put your hands on it for a few seconds.  That definitely is an indication of not enough (current)  amps is drawn by the amp and continued use will definitely shorten the life of your amp.  Also allow for adequate ventilation around the amp as well. a big trunk area should be sufficient for ventilation and you will not require additional fans to keep it cool provided it is not obstructed by shopping bag, golf bag, garbage bag stash of vintage girly magazines etc.. Its very important to run the correct gauge wires as recommended by the amp manual or if you are not sure, ring up car audio shops who sell that brand to verify correct wire gauge used.  Take care of your equipment and it will serve you in years to come.   
    • Considering one as well, did you end up purchasing from them?   thanks
    • Anyone use any of their HO alternators? Considering getting one from them since they are somewhat local to me in socal. Been awhile since I've logged in here . Good to be back at it. Thanks
    • Yeah he's just making recommendations to bassheads that normally watch his videos and that crowd just wants to max out all the times.   Amps can be used in different ways.  You dont have to use it like a basshead.  An amp puts out power thats all it does, there's no sound quality difference as long as you arent clipping and distorting.  
    • Great stuff...any sound quality differences between the taramps md1800 and hd750?
    • I've been confused bc several of the comments below the Taramps videos claim it's geared toward competitive play and not a daily driver listening to it alot over long periods of time.  Also, claimed you should upgrade your battery and alternator.   
    • What a voltage meter does is tell you when your system is actually giving out (when volts drop below 12) and what you can do is just turn it down until the voltages are healthy again (above 12.0 volts) You can run a 10000000000000000000 watt amp on a stock electrical system with zero issues as long as you set amplifier gains via voltage. Will you get all those watts? no but your system, amp and everything will be safe and operational and you get as much performance as your current electrical system gives.   Ps the taramps is way more energy efficient than the JL as long as you arent maxing it out like a dummy.  
    • uhm bro how many times do I need to tell you that you are not going to be consuming anywhere near the amount of electrical power thats inside that video?  How many times did I say that you can set however many watts you need just to get your dayton to play loud and sound good?  just because you have 2400 watts doesnt mean you use all of it Those tests are on a -0 db test tone thats pure 100% bass notes with no stopping.  While music is on and off bass hits with rests and the DB levels are around -10 ish  What that means is you are literally drawing next to nothing in actual power consumption. I think i said all this literally 3 times in the thread but it flew over your head all 3 times. Stop all this theoretical amp draw BS because whatever you think on paper is completely different from what actually happens in the real world system install. This is why I urge you to get a voltage meter to monitor car voltages which is 10000000000000x more effective then doing these amperage calculations which literally do nothing.
  • Latest Topics

  • Available Subscriptions