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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Let us know how that works out for you. Also you will probably never get that much turbulence out of a trunk with a single 15 and certainly not with 3K power. Brazilian amps do make legit power but reliability (mostly due to QC and component selection) is dubious. Buy with warranty from established seller if you go that route. Otherwise all those Korean amps are the same except for the brand name and whatever customer service/resale value that name is worth. You're way over-thinking this.
  2. 3 points

    Needing recommendations

    you dont want dual 2 ohm subs, you'll need to find a 2 ohm stable amp if thats the case and those cost more money. The P2 subs are all plastic, no motor, trash value for what they are worth. These monsters will absolutely smash the p2s in every way possible for the same pricing new. https://www.ebay.com/p/American-Bass-Elite-Series-12-Woofer-1200-RMS-2400-Peak-3-VC/13031087616 This amp is the best deal right now. https://www.amazon.com/Taramp-HD3000-1-Stable-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00FGULS78/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=taramps+md+3000&qid=1554150387&s=gateway&sr=8-1 Build your own ported box around 50 dollars in materials, have home depot cut it for you if you dont have tools then glue and screw, borrow a jigsaw and cut the subwoofer hole and you done. https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f40/official-free-ported-box-plans-56k-no-435910/ thats 470 ish dollars so far, you have extra money for a rear trunk battery, yes you'll want a trunk batt. The rest is for an amp kit.
  3. 3 points

    Q bomb box

  4. 3 points
    You know how I know you are clipping? you are playing 20ish hz material which is usually rebassed music and that sh*t is -5 to -1 db recording levels and you set the gains with a -10 db recording level. Just because you used an oscope doesnt mean its clean or its a correct gain setting. Its only correct for playing that test tone, not correct for playing music. Music is dynamic not a test tone, Its not the same when its 1 ohm or 4 ohm. 4 ohms you have box rise up to 8 ohms or higher thats the power you see out of your amp, i'm guessing you've never clamp tested the setup ever. You then run into the issue of not having clean dynamic headroom aka when some music has higher bass strength in the recording levels than others. WHen you wire to 1 ohm, you have all the headroom in the world for this. You also just set the gains via voltage drop so there's no excuse if you dont have the electrical. I have two 15ks off one single battery right now at 1 ohm each because my other batteries died in an accident. Its running completely fine because i found the proper level, none of the subs nor amps nor electrical system is stressed. When you wired to 4 ohms you were literally maxing out the amp 100-120% vs running 1 ohm the amp would be barely lifting a finger. which lasts longer? which gives a cleaner overall signal? I dont know how to make this any clearer to you.
  5. 3 points
    Want advice now? I quote you in that other thread... "lol your funny i have a high output alternator actual one is pictured here , 4 batteries , i dont need to tell you these details .. im just looking to build a box and got a lecture about sealed isnt good..lmao forget i asked you guys.. i know now never to ask for help here again.. its fine with me i got my box designs through email direct from orion audio... see ya later and its a adjustable box. sealed and ported" Then this nugget... "went with ported... sorry sealed ...lol" Why ask for advice if you're just going to do whatever you are bent on doing anyways.
  6. 3 points
    Got the meter today and finally learned what incredible deebeez this thing is hitting. 141.8 lol Keep in mind that my electrical system is bone stock and I'm running these on an audiopipe APMI-2K wired @ 2 ohm. With box rise, realistically these things are only seeing about 700-800 watts (if that). In the video I had a brain fart and said they were wired @ 4ohm. Anyways, here's the video:
  7. 3 points

    Looking for sub recommendations

    There is a search function on this site and Google still works I believe, ported vs sealed has to be the subject of hundreds of threads, or even a simple recommendation has turned into exactly that subject. There have been some hard-headed folks lately and they've been less than willing to learn as well... just getting tedious... that's all. There has been a rash of these type of questions lately on this site, hopefully this time the subject does not degenerate into a roasting like it has pretty much every-time.
  8. 3 points
    Only question now is what are you gonna bitch about next? You're not married are you?
  9. 3 points

    Thick MDF and Brace Pieces??

    This is a garbage ass post and I refuse to take it serious.
  10. 3 points


    Dafuq is this 7yr old bullshit getting bumped. Fuckin noobs at it again
  11. 3 points

    ANSWERED Help with my enclosure

    What is it with ignoring good advice and coming up with dumb ideas? Between this thread and a couple of others regarding mtx subs I'm afraid of mtx subs. I'm afraid they'll turn me into a retard
  12. 3 points
    Gram of distillate? LMAO. Thats just a few droplets of what looks bunk and dark AF. I spill much more than that out of my RBF's 5x a day and throw it away. Cannabis consultant my ass, you probably moved to Colorado and grow the boofiest garbage mids possible loser, Kill yourself.
  13. 3 points

    Random Picture Thread

  14. 3 points

    "Junk in Her Trunk" VW R32

    She sent this to me yesterday IMG_7111 by Jon Polo, on Flickr
  15. 2 points
    Lmao... homie looks a lil' uncomfortable at the moment
  16. 2 points

    New 12" Brahma

    tested with SSD and Brahma both same result.... 26ish extremely different suspension between the two subs...Fi after a year is still extremely tight, Brahma brand new was as loose as my wifes asshole
  17. 2 points

    Im doing everything wrong plz halp

    the main rule of car audio is, less is more. Too many speakers in the system will make everything sound like sh*t and you want all the amplifier power in front, nothing in the rear, that can be left on head unit power. You will need a new radio around 100 bucks, and the steering wheel retention hardware costs around 70-80 bucks my personal suggestion, screw the steering wheel control, you can play music with bluetooth on your phone and save that money for an amp. those 600 watt numbers are not the numbers you should be looking at, you should be looking at construction material usually go for silk domes on the tweeters. You'll want decent sensitivity ratings as well aim for 90db or higher sensitivity. Go for components or raw drivers aka seperate midrange and tweeter drivers and use the head unit to actively crossover.
  18. 2 points

    Bass only on 1 side

    Depends on what side your Canooter valve is on.......
  19. 2 points

    Factory sound processors?

    So when you say prep the doors... Do you mean dynomat etc? Not trying to sound dumb, it's just happening by accident lol
  20. 2 points
    Whoa that aggression though @Slo_Ride I think you might need a whore to release your hostility but fa real doe that’s a dumb question
  21. 2 points

    Random Picture Thread

    Hey hey hey.... what happened to the first one is always free???
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    Ended up getting him a Rockford Fosgate 4 channel amp and a set of Morel Maximo 5 1/4" component speakers from Crutchfield on sale. I think this set up should be a great start for him.
  24. 2 points

    Subwoofer Box Question

    Honestly that would depend on type of music sub and enclosure on rather or not that would be a shitty tune imo.
  25. 2 points
    Why replace something that's already badass?