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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point

    Need advice on speakers/amp

    youre asking a question that might have MANY responses, but the fact of the matter is that you can easily get away with this guy for $140. Youre going to perhaps get people to tell you to run active on the fronts and forgo the rears altogether, but i find that to be a preference thing. I like having rear fill personally. The class of the amp is mainly about efficiency nowadays, as the original class d amps were only able to process switching up to 200 hz, that is no longer the case and they can do full range all day now. I still prefer the warmth of the class a/b, but it just might be all in my head. The preference of a/b is akin to guitarists preferring tube amps even tho solid state modeling amps have fooled many trained ears.
  2. 1 point
    Thank you for everything Aaron.I cant wait to order my icon
  3. 1 point

    Budget 4 channel amp

    its very surprising that a brand like Dual is doing as well as it is, but all i ever hear about them is good stuff
  4. 1 point

    Budget 4 channel amp

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Electronics-XPR84D-2-1-High-Performance-Power-MOSFET-Class-D-Car-Amplifier-with-1-000-Watts-of-Dynamic-Peak-Power/137888849 These go on sale quite often for $72 and do rated power.
  5. 1 point
    so, roughly and inch larger than the size of a sheet of paper in both directions. Not bad
  6. 1 point
    Size (L x W x H) in 12.4 x 8.9 x 2.2
  7. 1 point


    I randomly watched that one night and was surprised at how much I liked it. Great movie.
  8. 1 point
    I'm not sure why you are thinking the gain, subsonic and Lpf will achieve "optimal sound", I'd advise an custom enclosure 1st then worry about all those settings. Let me add this... I built the Skar recommended enclosure once upon a time and quickly found out it could be improved upon. Depending on your goals, a custom enclosure will let you achieve "optimum sound" a lot better than filters and gain... amp gain is for matching input signal strength so your HU signal does not send the amp into clipping and SSF and LP filter settings are for attenuating unwanted frequencies and those are mostly subjective anyways. My .02
  9. 1 point
    I can't find LIGMA....
  10. 1 point
    Just let me add my location so you sick fucks can find me.
  11. 1 point

    PRV amps

    I did a large build with 8 of their Brazilian line amps and liked them but still prefer Taramps. I wouldn't buy PRVs new ones though.
  12. 1 point
    ahhhhhh, the moderate exotic awesome gocart on roids!! :)now i see why a single din is up your alley. looks like this guy will do it https://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDAV41B/JVC-KD-AV41BT.html?awkw=174571727545&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=89732643025&awdv=c&awug=9017953&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoaKgjInS3wIV2rjACh03yw-hEAQYAyABEgIs8vD_BwE. you could also look at a new rear view mirror that will also display the vid from a rearview cam
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    • a 3rd solution is to get a better head unit.  Sounds weird but my buddy going from a cheapo 60 dollar JVC head unit that claimed 4 volt preouts to a 150 dollar pioneer with real 4 volt preouts had a massive difference in bass performance alone.   The old head unit at a certain point it stopped getting loud and got getting stinky coils and hot amp, hot subs.  With the new pioneer it literally feels like 5 clicks louder than the max clipped output point of the cheapo JVC and the amps and subs are room temperature.
    • any amp clipped will get hot no matter 1 or 4 ohm. Considering his subs takes a lot of power to move he'll want more output than 4 ohms can give him and definitely come close to clipping the amp even more, same amount of heat.    So the most likely culprit is, you arent getting loud enough and you are pushing the amp pretty hard and your electrical might also be not up to par.  The cheapest solution is to build an efficient high performance custom ported box so you can get the output you need without stressing the amp out.  2nd is to upgrade electricals and plop in a bigger amp so you dont have to red line the amp all the times which means cooler setup, cleaner signal.
    • if possible, borrow an amp from a mate and run your subwoofer for a week to see how it behaves.  If that amp also gets too hot then; You may be using a lighter gauge wiring for the amp; suggest you upgrade to 1/0 gauge power, ground wires; if you are unsure of your amps specs / requirements, read the manual to verify its ok to run 2 gauge or you will have to upgrade. The amp only gets hot under normal conditions if the power consumption is not met,  Usually, under normal circumstances, it should get warm, but not hot so you can only put your hands on it for a few seconds.  That definitely is an indication of not enough (current)  amps is drawn by the amp and continued use will definitely shorten the life of your amp.  Also allow for adequate ventilation around the amp as well. a big trunk area should be sufficient for ventilation and you will not require additional fans to keep it cool provided it is not obstructed by shopping bag, golf bag, garbage bag stash of vintage girly magazines etc.. Its very important to run the correct gauge wires as recommended by the amp manual or if you are not sure, ring up car audio shops who sell that brand to verify correct wire gauge used.  Take care of your equipment and it will serve you in years to come.   
    • Considering one as well, did you end up purchasing from them?   thanks
    • Anyone use any of their HO alternators? Considering getting one from them since they are somewhat local to me in socal. Been awhile since I've logged in here . Good to be back at it. Thanks
    • Yeah he's just making recommendations to bassheads that normally watch his videos and that crowd just wants to max out all the times.   Amps can be used in different ways.  You dont have to use it like a basshead.  An amp puts out power thats all it does, there's no sound quality difference as long as you arent clipping and distorting.  
    • Great stuff...any sound quality differences between the taramps md1800 and hd750?
    • I've been confused bc several of the comments below the Taramps videos claim it's geared toward competitive play and not a daily driver listening to it alot over long periods of time.  Also, claimed you should upgrade your battery and alternator.   
    • What a voltage meter does is tell you when your system is actually giving out (when volts drop below 12) and what you can do is just turn it down until the voltages are healthy again (above 12.0 volts) You can run a 10000000000000000000 watt amp on a stock electrical system with zero issues as long as you set amplifier gains via voltage. Will you get all those watts? no but your system, amp and everything will be safe and operational and you get as much performance as your current electrical system gives.   Ps the taramps is way more energy efficient than the JL as long as you arent maxing it out like a dummy.  
    • uhm bro how many times do I need to tell you that you are not going to be consuming anywhere near the amount of electrical power thats inside that video?  How many times did I say that you can set however many watts you need just to get your dayton to play loud and sound good?  just because you have 2400 watts doesnt mean you use all of it Those tests are on a -0 db test tone thats pure 100% bass notes with no stopping.  While music is on and off bass hits with rests and the DB levels are around -10 ish  What that means is you are literally drawing next to nothing in actual power consumption. I think i said all this literally 3 times in the thread but it flew over your head all 3 times. Stop all this theoretical amp draw BS because whatever you think on paper is completely different from what actually happens in the real world system install. This is why I urge you to get a voltage meter to monitor car voltages which is 10000000000000x more effective then doing these amperage calculations which literally do nothing.
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