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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points

    Alpine MRD-M1000 Settings help

    Dislike my post/reaction all you want @Talontsi90 You're making the forum seem tedious with your bs. From your vid posts, Kicker fanboy recommendations to smartass unhelpful answers it's becoming clear to anyone that you should lurk, research and refrain from posting until the time you specify/clarify opinion from fact. Jeez dude... what forum did you grace with your presence previously? Imho your advice/opinions from the 90's could benefit a noob sure... but when you spread outdated information and respond without a solution expect someone to call it and I've seen you shot down more than you've been correct. Maybe that tells you something?
  2. 6 points

    Alpine MRD-M1000 Settings help

    Wtf? Once again a stellar solution is offered by @Talontsi90. Whether it is Kicker products, 5 Star videos or a smartass comment... it's been a fairly consistent attempt to... idk... raise your post count? The advice I've seen recently from quite a few noobs has been questionable and useless.
  3. 3 points

    Random Picture Thread

    @ThxOne this reminded me of you.
  4. 3 points

    My first box is finished

    This is it installed. Very happy with how it came out.
  5. 3 points

    My first box is finished

    looks great. Good to hear you're happy with the results.
  6. 2 points

    Any Spl predictions?

    You should paint the inside of your box with fiberglass resin or at the minimum a heavy slathering of wood hardener. You can never have too rigid of a box when it comes to spl. I would have tried different orientations, sweeps and moved interior bits around first before doing a recone. Those are all freebies. I gained 1.8db from bumping up the gain to a soft clip (only advisable if you know what you're doing.)
  7. 2 points

    Any Spl predictions?

    wait... why are you reconing just get a d1 sub?
  8. 2 points
    you can buy a prefab for a 12 and then make a baffle for a 10 and it'll be the right airspace 😁😁😁
  9. 2 points
    If you just want to swap stock speakers for after market speakers then don't spend that money on top speakers unless you do the sound deadening and external amplification along the change. If you wish to change the speakers for better after market speakers, it may provide you with a brighter sound but nothing much will be changed due to the stock car housing / lack of sound deadening So its up to you to decide whether you want to just get speaker replacement, so that would mean just get Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood, components, or any entry level components If you decide to go the whole hog and go for amplification, deadening, then it would be wise to spend money on more expensive components. The reason for this is it will provide you; better crossover with different tweeter attenuation; better materials / bigger voice coil / more power handling; more tweeter mounting options rather than just a top mount bracket; more reliability over the life of your car; (will not die on you in six months) Usually most car speakers sound similar and you will not notice much difference, but with the more expensive gear the tweeters are more pleasant to listen to over long periods. Personally I like the silk dome tweeters as I find the metal tweeters are more harsher at louder volumes but that is my personal experience and choice. Determine which option suits you depending on your budget mate! You can always upgrade over time, just plan out your project and take it from there!
  10. 2 points

    Install of sub in Chrysler 300

    This is my first swing at any kind of install. My 300 has a 'decent' stock system, just lacked some bottom end. My goal was to add quality bass in a box that is easy to remove if needed. I didn't want to shake the earth. Just wanted to know it was there when the volume was low and feel it when it was up. Didn't want to break the bank. I started out wanting a 12" sub. After a lot of research and discussion, I decided a 10 would be better. There are so many driver and amp suppliers. I looked at so many, it came down to Infinity 1000W with the K600 amp or what I ended up with, Dayton HO 10" DVC and NVX VAD10001 amp with an NVX LOC. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. The sound is exactly what I wanted, it's clean and powerful. When it's low you still know it's there. The box is really small. Worked with a member here to model the driver based on what I like to listen to and all that. Said I needed around a .82 cu ft box tuned to 30 hz. This ended up being .86 I think the tune should be 30.5 if the tuning calculator is accurate. I wired the sub down to 2 ohm. The amp is rated 760 W at 2 ohm. Because everything is so small I thought maybe it wouldn't be enough and I'd end up building another. Nope. This little setup gets after it. I read about how to set the gain by ear so I downloaded a tone generator. Everyone said to set volume at 85% of max and turn up the gain until you hear the pitch change, then back it off. With the gain all the way down I could go get to about 60% volume before my head was shaking. Needless to say the sub has a lot more power than the stock system. I spent some time listening to music and messing with the gain and low pass filter. I'm running the gain at only about 25% with the LPF around 110hz. I have the subsonic filter set at half octave below my box tune, which is what I read is a good place to start, 22.5 hz. Bass boost on the amp is 0%. I installed the amp on the back of the seat. I'm not 100% sure I love that, but we'll see. I put nylon spacers under the amp to provide air flow under the amp to hopefully help with cooling. I feel like the power connections to the amp are a little flimsy, but seems to be OK. I used 100% copper 4 gauge wire for the power and ground. Battery is in the trunk so this install was really easy from that stand point. The inline fuse is a 90A. I think I covered all the bases. Everything works, no sparks or fire. There is a post in the box construction forum that covers the building of the box in more detail. Overall, this is exactly what I wanted...looks and sound. I'm not crazy about the bar speaker grill. I'm considering putting some sort of false face on the front with some spacers so I can install a true metal grill of some sort. We'll see. For what some might call a budget build, this turned out great.
  11. 2 points

    Alpine MRD-M1000 Settings help

    I guess five star doesn't have any videos on public relations?
  12. 2 points

    Proper speaker wire size

    I used 8 gauge on both sets of my 5000 rms subs on 10k and 20k amps. No problem at all. You aren't going to find 6 gauge speaker wire. Welding cable is going to be your only option if you insist on running 6 gauge speaker wire.
  13. 2 points

    Proper speaker wire size

    So many people oversize wire for no reason... I dont know why. You see it all the time with just the basic systems like a 500 Watt Mono Block Amp and they are trying to squeeze in 1 Gauge... It drives me crazy. Wire itself is a resistor, they need to remember that.
  14. 2 points

    The truth about Rockville Audio

  15. 2 points

    Been some time....

    For the love off god quit spreading misinformation. Those brands aren't made for ported. I've run plenty of Sundown in sealed boxes. They all make subs that perform fine in either. Also a lot of people prefer small enclosure because they don't want to give up a lot of room. Sometimes you literally act like you have no common sense what so ever.
  16. 2 points
    You can take that Critical Mass amp and shove it right up your ass....right along with this comment. f**k outta here with this bad info.
  17. 1 point

    Any Spl predictions?

    At least it's kinda perty. I like the blue but the amp on the box irks me to death. And yes, wire to .5 and give her some real juice.
  18. 1 point

    Any Spl predictions?

    Above a 140 but below a 155. 😂 Good luck!
  19. 1 point

    Any Spl predictions?

    Should be 150db+... if I had to guess 147.3db sealed on dash
  20. 1 point

    Random Picture Thread

    I'm more amazed at the Tower Records, lol. I haven't seen one of those in years, lol.
  21. 1 point

    Pioneer or Kenwood?

    Yeah, no plan to run a DSP. So, I think I'm going to stick with the Pioneer. That extra $120 is 1/3 of the price of the mounting kit. Any money saved now means that much closer to the rest of the system.
  22. 1 point

    SSA Evil 6.5 VS Exodus Anarchy 704

    My biased vote is more Evil 65's
  23. 1 point
    Don't you hate when your hungry af but don't know what you want to eat?
  24. 1 point

    Random Picture Thread

    Lmao at Joe Rogan looking like he's doing gay porn.
  25. 1 point
    Rockville sucks but the OP is a complete jackass.
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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my setup for the first time and have some questions.  I'm not an audiophile (maybe yet, haha) but I do love music and want it to sound reasonably good, considering price. But I wanna start with something basic and go from there. My plan is to buy the parts and get a local shop to install everything. Hoping to keep it around $500 (I'm Canadian but using USD to presumably make it easier for people here) all in if possible.  I have a 1997 Honda Civic CX. There's an aftermarket Kenwood deck in it but its old and I'll be replacing it. Beyond that there's 2 stock speakers in the back, and none in the front, just the plastic things that look like speakers, which I found kinda odd.  So onto the questions. How many speakers do I actually need? Can I just get a new deck, 2 speakers, and a powered sub and call it a day? Or do I need 4 speakers? The first scenario seems more convenient, because if I understand correctly (correct me if not), I can only plug in 4 things to the average lower-end deck. 4 speakers plus a sub would require me to get an amp, yes? Prefer to not go down that road if possible for budget reasons. Can I get 2 new speakers and keep the existing rear ones? Would that sound bad? Examples of components I'm looking at: Heads: https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_105KDX360B/JVC-KD-X360BTS.html https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130DS5120B/Pioneer-DEH-S5120BT.html Speakers: https://www.amazon.ca/Pioneer-TS-F1634R-200W-2-Way-Speakers/dp/B0081SRIFS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=car+speakers&qid=1560738414&s=gateway&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.ca/Kicker-43DSC6504-Coaxial-Speakers-DSC6504/dp/B01BLVEVNS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=car+speakers&qid=1560738414&s=gateway&sr=8-4 https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3-6-5-Inch-Full-Range/dp/B00BF6HWCM/ref=pd_sbs_107_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BF6HWCM&pd_rd_r=fd3d6628-913e-11e9-a19e-076b366cd722&pd_rd_w=kgvev&pd_rd_wg=T8GM0&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=VZNPG9H461JQCD2FM8N0&psc=1&refRID=VZNPG9H461JQCD2FM8N0 Subwoofer: https://www.amazon.ca/Rockville-RW10CA-Profile-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B019Z3R582/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=subwoofer+car&qid=1560738464&s=gateway&sr=8-3 (looks like it just sold out) https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8P/Sound-Ordnance-B-8P.html   Will appreciate any help. Thanks!
    • I still have a couple 2005 RE XXX's and the original xbl^2 XXX 6.5's around here somewhere. Ah the good old days...
    • In a 4th order bandpass, all the output comes from the ports, so the direction the driver faces is irrelevant.
    • Im not familiar with the Kenwood h/u the OP has, but it is no longer safe to assume h/u amplifiers only put out 15-20 watts. Some h/u's come with a MOSFET amplifier these days and actually can put out close to 50 watts per channel, and I consider a great option for people just dabbling in car audio and dont want a dedicated external mid/highs amplifier.
    • Keep in mind that just because our ears lose stereo separation at lower frequencies does not mean the recording devices, and playback devices, also lose it. If in doubt, its pretty easy to sum your audio signal pre-amplification. There really is no reason to ever run subs in stereo, because as you say, our ears wont hear any advantages, but there could be disadvantages in the reproduction (wave cancellation affecting output response).

      edit: this is of course assuming you are running a true subwoofer system, and not one that your system also relies on for midbass, which I wouldn't recommend either due to localization issues.
    • No, you are not doing okay as long as you stay above 12 volts. Most healthy batteries will be above 12 volts when fully charged, and an alternator is ideally bringing your voltage up to 14.4 when the system/vehicle draw does not exceed the output of the alternator.

      I assume we are talking about a daily system, as opposed to a competition system where you are trying to maximize the output to tenths of a db. In the case of a daily driver system, basically as long as you never need to use jumper cables to start your car, its sufficient. This is because everyone's listening habits are different. How often you play the stereo while the engine is on, how loud you play it, and even (sometimes) the genre of music you listen to can affect the average-over-time draw your system puts on the charging system.
    • Thanks but Im asking a more broad question than what you personally are planning to do.
    • What is your goal? Are you trying to block/absorb noise, such an engine or road noise? Or are you mass loading panels to lower their resonant frequency?
    • I don't plan on doing a 5k+ watt build on a fully electric vehicle anytime soon so I am not worried about it.
    • You didnt list what speakers were used, but if they are a component set they should have come with passive crossovers. And again you didn't list what ARC amp you have, but it possibly has a highpass filter which should block unwanted frequencies.
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