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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    You mean there's other companies out there other than Sundown? I'm gonna have to look into this.
  2. 2 points
    Only if they are Harry Bols edition.
  3. 2 points
    This thread is pointless without the context of listening goals, space and budget restrictions.
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    16 cubic feet in a Challenger? SSA ICON. http://www.ssaudio.com/index.php/products/item/icon-series-subwoofers
  6. 1 point
    I’m frozen by the tyranny of choice. My budget is up to $120/pair. I have the Vifa eBay ring radiator tweets already the mids/tweeters will be powered by a Pioneer GMD 8604 What should I get that’ll x-over well with my 4 - 8” subs and the Vifa tweets (I’ve read they should go no lower than 2500). Limited to 3” depth unless I get/build a spacer.
  7. 1 point
    I have a bunch of stuff I need get rid of/sale, but just havent had time to really place on sites.Run a WTB thread. You should get some hits
  8. 1 point
    Crazy is right. All that time... wasted. A little tip for all of you... don't date someone half your age... don't "DATE" them
  9. 1 point
    Majority of amplifiers these days can handle a 2 ohm stereo load with no issues, and some down to a 1 ohm stereo load. Check your specifications of the amplifier in question being used in this application.Running at a 4 ohm load is generally a bit cleaner compared to running down to a lower ohm load with more THD, yet doubling the power as well in most cases. You gain more power with more distortion at the lower ohm load.Setting your gains properly and not over powering or clipping your speakers and it should serve fine.Amp may run a little warmer than usual 2 ohms verses 4.helps to place an air gap under the amplifier to help try keep cooler, such as 4-5 washers.Wiring diagram for 2 four ohm speakers svc to get to 2 ohms properly https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp?Q=2&I=41
  10. 1 point
    Okay, but it's not a rotary sub. You mentioned it in this thread like it was, so... that's why he made the distinction. This is what's being discussed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDkKQdRDNzQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLra9EAuOLA
  11. 1 point
    I'm half a decade younger than you. I just have an old soul.
  12. 1 point
    We gotta be pretty close in age, lol. I'll try to post some obscure stuff on the other thread, see if we can help you out.
  13. 1 point
    I didn't look up the drivers so I wasn't sure if they were 4 ohm or 8 ohm. So you do grasp the concept for sensitivity. Most don't so I wanted to run it by you. Those drivers aren't going to do the job the same way. That's why I hit you with the other questions. There's definitely good reason for paying for a certain level of quality and performance. That's not to be confused with overpaying for the exact same performance from two different drivers, but again, that does not describe the case for the two drivers you just selected for comparison. Overall... No, you do not have to pay Scanspeak prices for Scanspeak performance. Regardless of what some will claim, you cannot get good sound from just any driver just because the FR looks the same on a graph. Motors, cone materials, cone profiles & softparts all have an enormous impact on the overall subjective results, and that is what matters most once you're all done installing and tweaking. But you have to have a vision for what you expect from the final results before you can narrow the selections down for your application. I can help guide you since I have about 25 years experience with DIY and driver selection. Otherwise, you can also head over to the numerous other home audio DIY forums to get real scientific reasons (and truly helpful subjective impressions, not audiophile fluff words) as to why some drivers just don't cut the mustard, even though they look good on paper. Of course, this assumes a good install or application, no matter what. Before someone jumps in and overstates the obvious.
  14. 1 point
    Massive Attack - "Angel" Hell, pretty much anything by Massive Attack.
  15. 1 point
    They are still working on things, moving things, improving things, adding things, deleting things, so on and so on. Adjusting code can be quiet an arduous task. Until everything is complete I would expect some minor inconveniences.
  16. 1 point
    Doing this slowly but surely. Want to make sure I make NO mistakes whatsoever. 1 Skar RP800.1 1 Skar SDR12d2 1 6" Crossflow fan 1 NVX Ground Distribution and 1 NVX fused power distribution Utilizing factory head-unit thru an AudioControl LC2i Yesterday I installed the amp, fan, LC2i, and distribution blocks. Since they are on Styrofoam bracing was added to the bottom. Today I ran 4 gauge OFC NVX wire from the amp to distribution blocks. Power and ground from the distribution blocks to the LC2i. Remote out from the LC2i to the amp and fan. And the streetwires RCA's from LC2i to amp. Just have to run the 2/0 Excelene to the power distribution and 2/0 Excelene ground to distribution. Then pull the head-unit and plug in my jumper harness. Run the speaker wire and accessory wire from the jumper harness back to the LC2i. Run my 10 gauge OFC speaker wire to the enclosure and I am done. Probably finish some time next week while I am on vacation.
  17. 1 point
    I dig it, looks cool!
  18. 1 point
    Looks good. How much did you pay?
  19. 1 point
    Hold your mouse pointer over the heart... it's the 1st icon that shows up. The two handle goblet thing lol.
  20. 1 point
    thanks guys i can't see a thanks button yet lol
  21. 1 point
    That looks a lot better then it did for sure.
  22. 1 point
    What is an SQL and why isn't OP just trying to build the proper box for those RE subs he already owns?
  23. 1 point
    I would do an xfl 12 and an orion xtr 1500. Put the xfl in 2.25- 2.5cf tuned to 30-33hz.
  24. 1 point
    It’s pretty. That matters. Idk. Been bored looking for mids. Some stuff is cheaper there. Some stuff is more.
  25. 1 point
    I use these, waterproof, No silicon needed.
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