FEATURED Hyundai Cilantro.. I mean Elantra!

[ThxOne Premium Member]

LED Bulbs in the dash and what not can be a real PITA with fitting. I finally gave up and just use LED's on the headlights, fog lights and turn signals. Even then the turn signals getting LED's to fit were a couple trial & errors.

For the headlights I went with these for my Explorer with new lens housings. The old housings were clear but OEM original from 2003. I even put the same company LED's in dad's snowmobiles and just on the main headlight with somewhat foggy lens housings the one LED was 10 times brighter then the two highs that are on there.

Can't beat the price at 60 bucks for low and highs for LED's. Plus they are adjustable with the LED housings which really helps with the fog lights on that Explorer trust me,lol. Biggest PITA ever changing those out. I'd rather do a conversion to LED on a G-Body Cutlass with those old big headlights then install Foglights again on that Explorer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BF4FJ7P/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Those don't look too bad at all. G-Body, My brother had an 86' Grand Prix, my buddy an 86' Cutlass and an 87' SS Monte Carlo.

 

[Firewalker]

Next vehicle I build is going to be a '84 Cutlass 442. My 1st car was a '84 Cutlass Calais the last year they did those in RWD and only a couple K were made. I still kick myself for selling that car worse part is with the engine and suspension mods it was also my drag car/friday night special on route 66 in my hometown.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Wednesday May 3rd........

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

LED Bulbs in the dash and what not can be a real PITA with fitting. I finally gave up and just use LED's on the headlights, fog lights and turn signals. Even then the turn signals getting LED's to fit were a couple trial & errors.

For the headlights I went with these for my Explorer with new lens housings. The old housings were clear but OEM original from 2003. I even put the same company LED's in dad's snowmobiles and just on the main headlight with somewhat foggy lens housings the one LED was 10 times brighter then the two highs that are on there.

Can't beat the price at 60 bucks for low and highs for LED's. Plus they are adjustable with the LED housings which really helps with the fog lights on that Explorer trust me,lol. Biggest PITA ever changing those out. I'd rather do a conversion to LED on a G-Body Cutlass with those old big headlights then install Foglights again on that Explorer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BF4FJ7P/?tag=caraudiocom-20

My dash LEDs were an easy swap other than 2 that are intermittent and that I've been too lazy to swap. I do want to do LED headlights. My OEM lights are showing their age.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I did it. I bought the AudioControl DM-608. I hope it is better than the 3Sixty.3 cause that was a great DSP.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

All of my dash LEDs are now intermittent. Going back to standard bulbs.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

All of my dash LEDs are now intermittent. Going back to standard bulbs.

Are your LEDs advertised as dimmable? Does it help to increase brightness? Check the traces on the cluster and pins on the wiring connector. LEDs are generally more reliable than tungsten.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

All of my dash LEDs are now intermittent. Going back to standard bulbs.

Sometimes you just have to use the quality name brand LED's for them to be worth it. I had some cheap ebay led's as my tag lights, they blew twice. Went to AutoZone and got the name brand LED's they sell (Sylvania) and have had ZERO issues.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

Are your LEDs advertised as dimmable? Does it help to increase brightness? Check the traces on the cluster and pins on the wiring connector. LEDs are generally more reliable than tungsten.

They are dimmable and doesn't matter if I increase brightness. They all worked just fine for ~6 months and now they all flicker off and on...

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I got mail.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Sanded down a couple of dings from indifferent parking lot jerks who open their doors without looking or caring if another car is there that started to rust from the chipped paint and prepped/primed them. Of course it rains today. Hopefully from mid-day yesterday and overnight there was enough time for the primer/filler to cure or mostly cure.

 

[Bass Addict 10+ year member]

Changed my A/C controls with a newer but still used unit so that all the bulbs would be working. Get her swapped in and now the fan speed bulb is out. Good grief. Now I have to swap in a bulb from the old unit.

Thats usually how it happens lol.fix something,then something else goes out.

 

[Bass Addict 10+ year member]

Sanded down a couple of dings from indifferent parking lot jerks who open their doors without looking or caring if another car is there that started to rust from the chipped paint and prepped/primed them. Of course it rains today. Hopefully from mid-day yesterday and overnight there was enough time for the primer/filler to cure or mostly cure.

Yep,nobody cares these days so i try and make it a point to look at tags before i go in somewhere to try and catch one of these idiots who does'nt use common sense.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I just ordered 3 sets of 3 feet long RCA cables. Knukonceptz of course. This will cover the midbass, mids and tweeters from the DM-608. I am not sure how I want to control the subs yet. I will be using the Taramps Smart3 with that cool bass knob I ordered so I don't think I really "need" to use a DSP for the subs. They are the furthest speakers so I would be setting their delays to zero anyway.

So I have gobs of sound deadening stuff still for the doors, plus the new mounting rings for the midbass in the doors, need to run the mids and the tweets wires up to the A-Pillars, they are already wired at the amplifier. Then I need to hook up the DM-608 and finally use the laptop I bought literally just for tuning the DSP. Got the software, REW, the MiniDSP mic... I am almost there again.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I changed my only upstream oxygen sensor yesterday. Nothing wrong with it other than it has over 100,000 miles on it. So out with the old in with the new. I drive it 60 miles exactly and the CEL comes on. The code is P2237. Positive circuit open on my new oxygen sensor. So I clear it and drive another 40 miles or so. CEL comes back on. The O2 sensor for this car is not cheap. The parts store will not do anything except sell me another one. So I went online and matched up the numbers on the old NTK brand O2 sensor and ordered the exact same one that came out. That "should" get the car back to normal. The parts store sold me a "direct fit" sensor. However, my car is one of two variations (low emissions or ultra low emissions) apparently it matters. The weird thing is I gave the VIN to Hyundai and they couldn't tell me which version it is.

Edit:

Did some research and I have the ULEV (Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle) not the SULEV (Super Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle) so I get the extra 5hp. Also, I verified the correct oxygen sensor and I for sure ordered the correct part. The parts store gave me the wrong part but I am still stuck as it is an electronic part... meaning no returns once installed. Oh well, I will make the $160+ back Monday.