Six speaker OEM car - alter new head unit adapter harness to output to the cars six speakers

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HondaCRV

CarAudio.com Newbie
Any wiring experts here able to offer a solution please?

Background:

Honda CRV with OEM 6cd headunit (model 39100-SWA-P32*-M1) failed to eject cd's. The CRV has a six speaker system; 4 in doors and 2 in dash near windscreen (tweeters). Took out the HU and then:

Purchased an Android head unit from aliexpress that came with adapter cables that go from new HU to existing CRV harnesses. The specs claim 4x45W

Unfortunately the adapter harnesses don't feed the tweeters.

Is there a simplish way to reconfigure/butcher the adapter harnesses to bring the new HU to output to the 6 speakers in the way the original HU did?

I've attached images of the original HU schematics, plus the new HU port schematics, along with some images of the harnesses.

Original HU schematics -
OriginalEquipmentModel39100-SWA-P32-M1.jpg


new HU schematics -

newModel-PortDetails1.jpg

newModel-PortDetails2.jpg


Adapter harness port 1 -

HarnessAdapterPinoutsActualFrontView1.jpg

HarnessAdapterPinoutsActualRearView1.jpg

HarnessAdapterPinoutsFrontView1.jpg


Adapter harness port 2 -
HarnessAdapterPinoutsActualFrontView2.jpg

HarnessAdapterPinoutsActualRearView2.jpg

HarnessAdapterPinoutsFrontView2.jpg
 
Damn, think I need to follow the new harness wires from the HU end to the actual harness to see which wires are relevant. Will update this topic once I do that.
 
Not really no. Your head unit doesn't support 6 channels does it? If not there is no good way to connect your factory 6 speakers to it.

This might be bad news, but you might have just pushed the ball, and now it's teetering on the edge of the hill.

You would need to combine two sets into two channels. So you either wire them in series, and double the ohms (which might actually work on factory setups), but I wouldn't expect that if they were already in their own channels. (you could test the resistance to make sure).

OR you could wire them together (parallel) and cut the wattage to each. If you knew what the speaker ratings were you could see if that would work, but it won't sound right, and at that point you would be better off just running the front set of mids and the front set of tweeters on your 4 channels, and just disconnecting the rears until you are ready to scratch the itch.

You could get a line output converter and turn your head units 4ch into 6 ch.

You can find a set of 2way, 3way or better choice would be a set of components for the front that will replace the factory. You can find a set that will play off that head unit wattage (if that's 45w x4 RMS) for $100-$200 and sound better than your factory setup.

The REAL ANSWER is now you NEED an amp, and with an amp, you want better speakers, and if they are enough, you need an alternator. So a(t least one new) amp, new speakers, maybe a new alt with new wiring, big 3, and then maybe a new battery. (The best answer was the last paragraph if you didn't pick up on how frickin hilarious I am).

Unless your instinct response to: Are you prepared to spend $500-$1000 more on your stereo now, is yes; then I would suggest replacing the fronts. Make sure that is 45w x 4 RMS, and get a set of components at that wattage (50w RMS) and replace your front mids and tweeters. Leave your rears connected to that unless you wanted to spend another $50 to replace those too. Unless you want it LOUD and have the money to spend, then you need an amp.

You could always find a set of budget 2 or 3 ways, leave the tweeters off, (their frequency will be covered), and get some real budget speakers for under $40 a set.
 
Last edited:
I do not see a specific output for the tweeters. If they are just tweeters, they should be spliced with the doors.

Yes, when I look at the original head unit schematics it only shows 4 speakers output. Plus there is no splitting or otherwise at the head unit end - the CRV harness plugs straight into the rear port.

I reinstalled the original head unit, used the fader function to output to the front speakers only and confident the output goes to the front door speakers AND the tweeters. Faded to rear speaker and can't hear the tweeters, so it appears the front door speakers and tweeters are wired/connected together.

I then traced the wires from the output port from the new head unit to the adapter cable and everything matches to what is expected at the CRV harness connector.

TracingWires.jpg


Then I reinstalled the new head unit and faded to front speakers only, but I cannot determine if the tweeters are working with the new head unit as I can only hear the door speakers. I would have to assume they are as the output port to harness adapter match what the CRV harness expects speaker wise.

Not sure why I can't hear the tweeters. Maybe the new head unit equalizer is too bassy and drowning out the tweeter treble.

Any ideas to determine for sure? Disconnect a front door speaker maybe?
 
As I was reading, this same idea popped into my mind. It may be easier to remove the tweeter, usually the grille pops right off.

Hmmm, if I did that then I definitely wouldn't hear it! However, if I remove the grill and place a finger on the tweeter gently and turn the volume up, I should feel the vibration. Or maybe there is a way to place a multimeter on the tweeter wires to get some signal (might have to google it).
 
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