Rear speakers keekp blowing or cutting out.

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sounds_explicit

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Ok so I installed 4 prv audio speakers. Added baffles to the rear deck only , for the purpose of keeping the spl away from the rear speakers. I blew the 2 prvs in the rear and decided to go with 4 hertz installed them and tuned them correctly yesterday. Today I drove a measily 30 minutes all 4 windows down and sunroof open, the rear speakers cut out and not the front once again.... turn off hu and got home ohmed everything out and they still said 2 ohms in the front and 2 ohms in the rear.. bridged on a 4 channel rockford 600.4 amp. turned on the hu and the rears worked again... I dont want to blow these....wtf is happening ? Do you guys think that the baffles I added to the rear are making them to hot? And not enough air flow to them? Causing them to cut out? I switched the front wires for the front speakers to the rear input on amp to verify the channels weren't blown and they work as required..Getting irritated as I been dealing with this issue since I installed new tear deck speakers with baffles.. should I remove the baffles? What are your thought on that issue?
 
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Ok so I installed 4 prv audio speakers. Added baffles to the rear deck only , for the purpose of keeping the spl away from the rear speakers. I blew the 2 prvs in the rear and decided to go with 4 hertz installed them and tuned them correctly yesterday. Today I drove a measily 30 minutes all 4 windows down and sunroof open, the rear speakers cut out and not the front once again.... turn off hu and got home ohmed everything out and they still said 2 ohms in the front and 2 ohms in the rear.. bridged on a 4 channel rockford 600.4 amp. turned on the hu and the rears worked again... I dont want to blow these....wtf is happening ? Do you guys think that the baffles I added to the rear are making them to hot? And not enough air flow to them? Causing them to cut out? I switched the front wires for the front speakers to the rear input on amp to verify the channels weren't blown and they work as required..Getting irritated as I been dealing with this issue since I installed new tear deck speakers with baffles.. should I remove the baffles? What are your thought on that issue?
You shouldn't be bridging those I wouldn't think. It should be one per channel on a 4 channel amp @ 4 ohms each. If you bridge you're paralleling the two channels effectively making it 2 ohms 300 watts for 2 speakers. What are the speakers and the specific amplifier?
 
Hertz energy ecx 6.5
Rockford power 600.4
Are you overdriving those speakers? They're rated for 70W so you'll need to use the multimeter to set it up using ohm's law and a 0db tone. Disconnect the speaker and measure the AC voltage coming from the terminals, how high is it?

rmschartpm5-1.jpg


Do one channel at a time, it should be under 17V peak. 17V is approximately 72W.


Use the tones on that page, whichever tone generates the highest voltage at the highest listening volume you use is the tone you go with, just make sure it's 0db.
 
Sorry I messed up with the speakers.

They are hertz energy ecx 165.5 2 way coaxial rated for 210 watts running off rockford power 600.4. So I dont think I'm over powering them. Just tried my multimeter and I must have left it on and it killed the batteries lol. So I'll have to go get new ones tomorrow as I dont have spare ones atm
. I'll attach a pic of the amp and how its setup
 
Sorry I messed up with the speakers.

They are hertz energy ecx 165.5 2 way coaxial rated for 210 watts running off rockford power 600.4. So I dont think I'm over powering them. Just tried my multimeter and I must have left it on and it killed the batteries lol. So I'll have to go get new ones tomorrow as I dont have spare ones atm
. I'll attach a pic of the amp and how its setup
You linked the right speakers, read the page again. https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-coaxial-energy-ecx165_5/

Continuous power is 70W. Peak power is more of a marketing thing, but with Hertz speakers it's what it can handle briefly, not full time. You need to get those things lowered down to something more reasonable. They can be run a little bit above RMS rating, maybe like 10% full time but not 300%.

I think the issue is that you're going by the wrong numbers, peak or max is meaningless on speakers for setting them up. It's completely different between brands and on cheap brands it means literally nothing. Continous or RMS voltage is what you want to go by. It's not that big of a mismatch though, it'll still sound good and the amp will still perform pretty well at 70% power if you do 4x4ohm. Hertz is a great brand that can put up with a little abuse on top, just not crazy amounts.
 
Hmm ok. Maybe the issue is that they are bridged then getting way too much watts. I'll see if I can find a set of spare batteries in the house. This store literally said they would be perfect to run bridged at 2 ohms on 2 channels.. hitting about 150ish watts roughly so I set it up that way and bridged them and tuned it. Must the the issue then. Ughhhh
 
Hmm ok. Maybe the issue is that they are bridged then getting way too much watts. I'll see if I can find a set of spare batteries in the house. This store literally said they would be perfect to run bridged at 2 ohms on 2 channels.. hitting about 150ish watts roughly so I set it up that way and bridged them and tuned it. Must the the issue then. Ughhhh
Yeah, bridged full power means they'll be at 150 a piece, which is over twice their rating. It's asking for trouble, but they're obviously pretty good speakers to put up with it lol. Hopefully no damage was done but when you get the chance do the whole multimeter setup again. You can leave them bridged if you want, so long as it's metered down to about 24.5V peak with various 0db sine wave frequencies.

If you end up going with 4 channels, one to each speaker then it'll instead be 17.4V ish
 
Yeah, bridged full power means they'll be at 150 a piece, which is over twice their rating. It's asking for trouble, but they're obviously pretty good speakers to put up with it lol. Hopefully no damage was done but when you get the chance do the whole multimeter setup again. You can leave them bridged if you want, so long as it's metered down to about 24.5V peak with various 0db sine wave frequencies.

If you end up going with 4 channels, one to each speaker then it'll instead be 17.4V ish
Got it all figured out just had a little too much voltage going to the speakers . They sound a lot better now and they dont cut out after 3o min of playing time. My head unit is set at to 50 out of 63. And my voltages are now correct. Now I just need to exchange this 3k rms amp because my subs are asking for more power :/. Looking to get a 5k now instead of a 3k.
 
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