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    • @shredder2 we might keep you busy for a bit today. can you get a ported design for an E seried sundown for this guy?   edit, actually, one of these guys http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers-2/item/ev3-series   the ev3 series
    • but youll want more than 8 guage. and yes, you adequately described your bass goals. you want some rumble and the ability to shake the car ahead of you from time to time, right?
    • dude, just get a sundown 12 in a good box and run a wolfram or soundqubed amp to it and youll be plenty pleased
    • yep, the crazy 8s are making a comeback!! i have a pair og JBL gti800s that are a prized possession of mine
    • Your welcome! Oh, the DS18 subwoofers were made to mimic the Digital Designs brand, although it may look similar, I have seen from the specs that it does not play too low.  It goes down to 36Hz and is not very efficient, that makes it not too loud, but then again with subwoofers, even an entry level subwoofer would sound good in a well built box. Its the box that creates the magic when it comes to subwoofers and a good clean signal helps with distortion issues.  Always try to buy the most powerful amplifier you can afford at that time. If brand new is way off your budget, then go second hand and aim for class D as they are more easier on drawing current in an automotive environment.
    • Really waiting on someone to chime in about mounting amps on top of the box..... I'm sure I can Fab up a nice looking amp rack out of MDF and acrylic and throw some lights in it but I'm also looking for someone to talk me out of mounting them on the box LOL..... and then point me in a direction on what in the hell to do with their big asses....
    • With my amp hooked up, the positive wire touched the car body (negative to body was connected). Am i fine to hook it back up to positive just as nothing happened or is there something wrong with the amps power circuit now?
    • Well said, i appreciate it  Thank you
    • Best option would be to visit a car audio store to get a feel of the current gear out there.  Then you would have to figure out how much boot space you are willing to sacrifice in your trunk area.  Then go purchase a subwoofer(s) and amplifier combo and power wire kit as well.  4 Gauge is sufficient enough to provide you decent bass you are chasing and save you money on future upgrades.  You just have to decide if you want to go a single or double subwoofer system.  Also do your own research on amps/ subwoofers. Usually with reputable brands, compared to the no-name ones, will outlast other flea market gear PROVIDED, you know when  to turn down the volume when you hear distortion.  A single 500rms monoblock amp would be a good starting point and a dual ported or sealed box subwoofer system would be able to satisfy your bass quest, just depends if you want a large ported box that would take more room then a sealed option.
    • Yeah I have found a lot of builds in a 2500 mega cab but always the older generation trucks that the seats do not fold flat all the way to the floor when you fold them down..... haven't found anything substantial in the 4th gen Mega cabs.... I'm definitely going to look into a back seat swap if it is possible because I hate that the seats fold all the way flat to the floor because if I had the 3rd gen mega cab backseat they fold flat but there is still like 10 in of space underneath the seats which would be perfect for mounting my DSP and my 3 amps.... And yes my stock Uconnect 8.4 nav unit is deeply integrated into my truck as well....had to use a PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 integration module to get the channels I needed for the amps, keep my steering controls and other Factory controls and just to retain the damn VOLUME control LOL.... I have custom Tweeter pods and mid-range pods mounted on my a-pillar at dash level and have just disconnected the two flat factory dash speakers at either corner of the windshield.... I had to retain the center channel speaker and I just upgraded it with a Infinity reference speaker because that is the speaker that the truck sends all of the warning Chimes for the front and rear sensors as well as the nav and speed warnings, which I wanted to retain.... was a pain in the ass to get wired in but I kept all factory features, warnings, and sounds.  
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