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What type of screws
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<blockquote data-quote="winkychevelle" data-source="post: 8874304" data-attributes="member: 611804"><p>Consider this</p><p></p><p>The threaded part of a screw is designed to go into the 2nd layer.</p><p>The smooth part is designed to only go through the first and should only be long enough to do so.</p><p></p><p>Once the screw goes into the second piece deep enough for the smooth section to pass completely through the first layer only then does the clamping force happen.</p><p></p><p></p><p>With screws that are fully threaded what happens is that the layers can be pushed apart if not clamped during the screw insertion. If that happens yes you can tighten the screw and pull it back together but in the process one side of the 2 layers is stripping in order to pull the pieces tight. If it's the outer layer not really a problem but the inner layer is.</p><p></p><p>If using pocket holes I use the normal 1 1/4 kreg screws. But it's a pain in the but to drill the holes, clamp the pieces and the screw them together. So I only do that for jobs where the person wants a screw less box on viewable surfaces.</p><p></p><p>I don't have the clamps to just use glue.</p><p></p><p>Otherwise I typically use deck screws1 1/2" length with a 1/2-5/8" smooth shank so they can counter sink nicely.</p><p></p><p>This is the correct screw for 3/4 mdf</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084WTK2XR/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL]</p><p></p><p>This one for parts that you are worried about over penetrative</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7838MYB/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL]</p><p></p><p>Really with wood glue the screws aren't necessary for holding power. And I will grab my 15gauge pin nailer just as fast to slap a box together.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="winkychevelle, post: 8874304, member: 611804"] Consider this The threaded part of a screw is designed to go into the 2nd layer. The smooth part is designed to only go through the first and should only be long enough to do so. Once the screw goes into the second piece deep enough for the smooth section to pass completely through the first layer only then does the clamping force happen. With screws that are fully threaded what happens is that the layers can be pushed apart if not clamped during the screw insertion. If that happens yes you can tighten the screw and pull it back together but in the process one side of the 2 layers is stripping in order to pull the pieces tight. If it's the outer layer not really a problem but the inner layer is. If using pocket holes I use the normal 1 1/4 kreg screws. But it's a pain in the but to drill the holes, clamp the pieces and the screw them together. So I only do that for jobs where the person wants a screw less box on viewable surfaces. I don't have the clamps to just use glue. Otherwise I typically use deck screws1 1/2" length with a 1/2-5/8" smooth shank so they can counter sink nicely. This is the correct screw for 3/4 mdf [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084WTK2XR/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] This one for parts that you are worried about over penetrative [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7838MYB/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] Really with wood glue the screws aren't necessary for holding power. And I will grab my 15gauge pin nailer just as fast to slap a box together. [/QUOTE]
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