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Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
JBL setup with a754, Fuse sub & Club 605CSQ advise please
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8854467" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>If you’re going to stay with this configuration, you only need to fuse an amplifier for its rated current draw, you don’t fuse per channel so no; there aren’t separate fuse options for one amplifier. I’ve given you that information already and it still applies.</p><p></p><p>HPF crossover points on the fronts (IMHO) should be set at or slightly above their ability to play down to or at the same crossover point as the subs. I usually run my subs no higher than 80Hz. The JBL’s you list are rated from 48Hz, I’d start at 50Hz with the subs crossed at 80 then go up a bit with the comps and back down, see which sound appeals to you – set it and forget it. As for the subs, they can be run as a separate 2ohm (parallel) or separate 8 ohm (series) load in a two channel configuration as you have stated is your desire, you don’t have the option of running them at 4ohms to left and right, not a wiring option on these subs. Each of the subs has two 4ohm voice coils which in parallel are 2ohms or in series is 8 ohms, no 4 ohm option here. The amp is only 2ohm stable and that will provide you roughly 200 watts to each sub. The easiest way (and really the only way in which you should run them as sub a and b on channels 3 and 4 is at two ohms each giving you 200 watts per sub. The other sub connection option you asked about only saves a few wires, nothing more. Having 3 and 4 bridged at 4ohms (400x1) is the same as separate left and right at 2 ohms (200x2=400), no difference in output from the amp;.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8854467, member: 689267"] If you’re going to stay with this configuration, you only need to fuse an amplifier for its rated current draw, you don’t fuse per channel so no; there aren’t separate fuse options for one amplifier. I’ve given you that information already and it still applies. HPF crossover points on the fronts (IMHO) should be set at or slightly above their ability to play down to or at the same crossover point as the subs. I usually run my subs no higher than 80Hz. The JBL’s you list are rated from 48Hz, I’d start at 50Hz with the subs crossed at 80 then go up a bit with the comps and back down, see which sound appeals to you – set it and forget it. As for the subs, they can be run as a separate 2ohm (parallel) or separate 8 ohm (series) load in a two channel configuration as you have stated is your desire, you don’t have the option of running them at 4ohms to left and right, not a wiring option on these subs. Each of the subs has two 4ohm voice coils which in parallel are 2ohms or in series is 8 ohms, no 4 ohm option here. The amp is only 2ohm stable and that will provide you roughly 200 watts to each sub. The easiest way (and really the only way in which you should run them as sub a and b on channels 3 and 4 is at two ohms each giving you 200 watts per sub. The other sub connection option you asked about only saves a few wires, nothing more. Having 3 and 4 bridged at 4ohms (400x1) is the same as separate left and right at 2 ohms (200x2=400), no difference in output from the amp;. [/QUOTE]
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JBL setup with a754, Fuse sub & Club 605CSQ advise please
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